As every Neapolitan knows, the poet Virgil placed an egg under the foundations of the city’s outrageously picturesque seafront fortress (Castle of the Egg) and when it breaks, a great disaster will befall the city. Considering earthquakes, eruptions of nearby Mt. Vesuvius, plague outbreaks, and World II bombings, it’s probably safe to assume the egg is no longer intact. The castle is enchanting even without such legends, squeezed onto a tiny island the Greeks first settled almost 3 millennia ago, built over the foundations of the villa of the Roman emperor Lucullus, and a royal residence from the 13th through 20th centuries. The little lanes beneath the thick walls are lined with the houses of Borgo Marinaro, a former fisherman’s haunt where quaint lanes are now lined with pleasant bars and pizzerias. For Neapolitans, a walk across the stout bridge onto the island is a favorite Sunday-afternoon outing.