It’s not New York’s Guggenheim or London’s Tate Modern, but the sprawling Palazzo Regina in the middle of medieval and baroque Naples provides a dramatic counterpoint for works by such contemporary artists as Anish Kapoor, Richard Serra, and Jeff Koons. Painter Francesco Clemente, who was born in Naples but made his reputation on the international art scene, creates an illusionary experience in two rooms he’s decorated with colorful tile floors and frescoes replicating ancient symbols of the city. Conceptual sculptor Anish Kapoor has transformed a room into a white cube with rich blue pigments on the floor that seem to draw you into the bowels of the earth; he has also designed the entrance to the Monte S. Angelo subway station just outside the city center to resemble his version of Dante’s entrance to the underworld (and perhaps sympathizing with riders that commuting can indeed be hell). Across town, the Palazzo delle Arti Napoli, or PAN (Via dei Mille 60;; [tel] 081-7958604) houses rotating exhibitions of contemporary art.