If your decorating tastes lean toward royal pomp, you’ll love following a designated route (accompanied by a really dry audio commentary) through some 30 grandiose yet strangely vacuous rooms where Neapolitan royalty ruled and entertained in the 18th and 19th centuries. You won’t miss too much if you give this pompous old pile a miss, though it’s hard not be impressed by the sweep of the marble double staircase, the opulent Teatrino di Corte (the private theater), and the ridiculously large, tapestry-hung Hall of Hercules (the ballroom). Most seductive of all are the manicured private gardens, tucked away above the city and the Bay of Naples; those, you can enter for free.