If you can only go to one restaurant for dinner in Nashville, it should be City House. Located in the center of Germantown, the food coming out of the open kitchen is decidedly more upscale than the convivial vibe would lead you to believe. Order the wood-fired belly ham pizza (sliced pork belly, melty mozzarella and Parmesan, topped with oregano and chili oil) or any house-made sausage. The cornmeal-crusted catfish with eggplant caponata is a perfect encapsulation of City House’s Southern-by-way-of-Italy ethos. Nobody does octopus better, and their rotating sausage/fruit or veggie combo is outstanding. The Bandit cocktail (Averna, grapefruit, ginger ale, lime) got me hooked on Italian liqueur; and the cottage cheese will convert anyone who thinks that’s just gross grandma food. Sunday Supper is the liveliest, most current way to taste the season with a whole different array of small plates, pizzas, and sandwiches. Nashvillians loved City House long before its chef and owner, native Tandy Wilson, brought home a James Beard award for Best Chef Southeast in 2016, but that sure didn’t hurt.