Chef Deb Paquette is the "Dolly Parton" of the Nashville culinary scene—beloved, supernaturally talented and not at all shy about making a splash.

Not that you'd know it when you walk into her manicured, monochromatic, chic-if-a-bit faceless restaurant Etch . No matter: the color here is on the plates and boy, do they make an impact. Paquette is a master of contrasting flavors, meaning that most every dish comes with multiple dollops of sauces through which you can drag the proteins and vegetables. These might have hints of Japanese ponzu, recall the spice mix za'atar from the Middle East, play with Italian pesto, or Thai curry. Therea re also, of course, tips of the hat to Nashville's signature dishes. My favorite appetizer is a roasted cauliflower with four dips: roasted almond, a truffled pesto, an extraordinary red pepper puree, whipped feta. But it gets real competition from the hearty octopus and shrimp bruschetta which is slathered with a sunflower seed hummus and gets and additional kick from bacon. Among the best entrees are a superb grilled lamb loin with a pomegranite walnut sauce and plate that makes magic with mushrooms, tempura frying some, making a brulee of others, and sauteeing the others with rest with yummy sauces. Save room for dessert which are also stellar.