Planning a trip to New Orleans

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

Every air traveler entering the U.S. is required to show a valid passport (including U.S. citizens). Note: U.S. and Canadian citizens entering the U.S. at land and sea ports of entry from within the western hemisphere must now also present a passport or other documents compliant with the Western Hemisphere Travel Initiative (WHTI; visit www.getyouhome.gov for details). Children 15 and under may continue entering with only a U.S. birth certificate, or other proof of U.S. citizenship.

It is advised to always have at least one or two consecutive blank pages in your passport to allow space for visas and stamps that need to appear together. It is also important to note when your passport expires. Many countries require your passport to have at least 6 months left before its expiration in order to allow you into the destination.

Australia -- Australian Passport Information Service (tel. 131-232; www.passports.gov.au).

Canada -- Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

Ireland -- Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.foreignaffairs.gov.ie).

New Zealand -- Passports Office, Department of Internal Affairs, 47 Boulcott St., Wellington, 6011 (tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand, or 04/474-8100; www.passports.govt.nz).

United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency, or contact the Identity and Passport Service (IPS), 89 Eccleston Sq., London, SW1V 1PN (tel. 0300/222-0000; www.ips.gov.uk).

United States -- To find your regional passport office, check the U.S. State Department website (travel.state.gov/passport) or call the National Passport Information Center (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Visas

The U.S. State Department has a Visa Waiver Program (VWP) allowing citizens of the following countries to enter the United States without a visa for stays of up to 90 days: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Monaco, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, and the United Kingdom. (Note: This list was accurate at press time; for the most up-to-date list of countries in the VWP, consult http://travel.state.gov/visa.) Even though a visa isn't necessary, in an effort to help U.S. officials check travelers against terror watch lists before they arrive at U.S. borders, visitors from VWP countries must register online through the Electronic System for Travel Authorization (ESTA) before boarding a plane or a boat to the U.S. Travelers must complete an electronic application providing basic personal and travel eligibility information. The Department of Homeland Security recommends filling out the form at least 3 days before traveling. Authorizations will be valid for up to 2 years or until the traveler's passport expires, whichever comes first. Currently, there is one US$14 fee for the online application. Existing ESTA registrations remain valid through their expiration dates. Note: Any passport issued on or after October 26, 2006, by a VWP country must be an e-Passport for VWP travelers to be eligible to enter the U.S. without a visa. Citizens of these nations also need to present a round-trip air or cruise ticket upon arrival. E-Passports contain computer chips capable of storing biometric information, such as the required digital photograph of the holder. If your passport doesn't have this feature, you can still travel without a visa if the valid passport was issued before October 26, 2005, and includes a machine-readable zone, or if the valid passport was issued between October 26, 2005, and October 25, 2006, and includes a digital photograph. For more information, go to http://travel.state.gov/visa. Canadian citizens may enter the United States without visas, but will need to show passports and proof of residence.

Citizens of all other countries must have (1) a valid passport that expires at least 6 months later than the scheduled end of their visit to the U.S., and (2) a tourist visa.

For information about U.S. Visas go to http://travel.state.gov and click on "Visas." Or go to one of the following websites:

Australian citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information from the U.S. Embassy Canberra, Moonah Place, Yarralumla, ACT 2600 (tel. 02/6214-5600), or by checking the U.S. Diplomatic Mission's website at http://canberra.usembassy.gov/visas.html.

British subjects can obtain up-to-date visa information by calling the U.S. Embassy Visa Information Line (tel. 09042-450-100 from within the U.K. at £1.20 per minute, or tel. 866-382-3589 from within the U.S. at a flat rate of $16 and is payable by credit card only) or by visiting the "Visas to the U.S." section of the American Embassy London's website at http://london.usembassy.gov/visas.html.

Irish citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information through the U.S. Embassy Dublin, 42 Elgin Rd., Ballsbridge, Dublin 4 (tel. 1580-47-VISA [8472] from within the Republic of Ireland at €2.40 per minute; http://dublin.usembassy.gov).

Citizens of New Zealand can obtain up-to-date visa information by contacting the U.S. Embassy New Zealand, 29 Fitzherbert Terrace, Thorndon, Wellington (tel. 644/462-6000; http://newzealand.usembassy.gov).

Customs

For U.S. Customs details, consult your nearest U.S. embassy or consulate, or U.S. Customs (www.cbp.gov).

For information on what you're allowed to bring home, contact one of the following agencies:

U.S. Citizens: U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667; www.cbp.gov).

Canadian Citizens: Canada Border Services Agency, Ottawa, Ontario, K1A 0L8 (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: HM Customs & Excise, Crownhill Court, Tailyour Road, Plymouth, PL6 5BZ (tel. 0845/010-9000; from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152; www.hmce.gov.uk).

Australian Citizens: Australian Customs Service, Customs House, 5 Constitution Ave., Canberra City, ACT 2601 (tel. 1300/363-263; from outside Australia, 612/6275-6666; www.customs.gov.au).

New Zealand Citizens: New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington, 6140 (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Medical Requirements

Unless you're arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow fever), inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into the United States.

When to Go

With the possible exception of July and August (unless you thrive on heat and humidity), just about any time is the right time to go to New Orleans. We love the warm, jasmine-infused nights and warmer days of mid-fall and spring best, and even relish the occasional high drama of a good summer thunderstorm.

It’s important to know what’s going on when, since the city’s landscape, and hotel availability and rates, can change dramatically depending on what events or conventions are on. Mardi Gras is, of course, the hardest time of year to get a hotel room, but it can also be difficult during major festivals (French Quarter Fest, Jazz & Heritage Festival, Essence) and sporting events (BCS, Sugar Bowl, Saints and LSU Superdome games). New Orleans isn’t particularly known as a holiday destination, but in December it’s gussied up with decorations, there are all kinds of holiday special events, and the weather is quite fine. Eager hotels often have good deals, and many restaurants offer special prix fixe “Réveillon” deals. Take advantage of it.

The Weather

The average mean temperature in New Orleans is an inviting 70[dg]F (21[dg]C), but it can drop or rise considerably in a single day. (It can be 40[dg]F/4[dg]C and rain one day, 80[dg]F/27[dg]C and humidity the next.) Conditions depend primarily on whether it rains and whether there is direct sunlight or cloud cover. Rain can provide slight and temporary relief on a hot day; it tends to hit in sudden (and sometimes dramatically heavy) showers, which disappear as quickly as they arrive. In unimpeded sun it gets much warmer. The high humidity can intensify even mild warms and chill. Still, the semitropical climate is part of New Orleans’s appeal—the slight moistness makes for lush, sensual air.

New Orleans should be pleasant most of the year. During the muggy, bargain summer months, follow the natives’ example: stay out of the midday sun, shade-seek and duck from one air-conditioned locale to another. June and September can still be humid and warm; early spring and mid-fall are glorious. Winter is mild by American standards—but don’t expect Florida warmth—and punctuated by an occasional freeze-level cold snap. But unpredictable and flexible are the watchwords. The whims of the weather gods are at play, so be ready to adjust accordingly.

Hurricane season runs June 1 to November 30. Obviously, there are no guarantees, but despite the high drama of recent years, severe storms are fairly rare. In the height of summer, T-shirts, shorts, and tissue-weight fabrics are acceptable everywhere except the finest restaurants. In the spring and fall, something a little warmer is in order; in the winter, carry a mid-weight coat or jacket and pack a folding umbrella (though they’re available everywhere, as are cheap rain ponchos for unexpected downpours). The biggest summertime climate problem can be the air-conditioning overcompensation that chills rooms—especially restaurants—to meat-locker-like temps, so bring those light wraps along even on warm nights.

New Orleans’s Average Temperatures & Rainfall

High ([dg]F)               62     65     71     78     85     89     91     90     87     80     71     65

High ([dg]C)              17     18     22     26     29     32     33     32     31     27     22     18

Low ([dg]F)                43     46     52     58     66     71     73     73     70     60     50     45

Low ([dg]C)                6       8      11     14     19     22     23     23     21     16     10      7

Visitor Information

Even a seasoned traveler should consider writing or calling ahead to the New Orleans Metropolitan Convention and Visitors Bureau, 2020 St. Charles Ave., New Orleans, LA 70130 (tel. 800/672-6124 or 504/566-5011; www.neworleanscvb.com). The friendly, helpful staff will help with advice and decision-making; if you have a special interest, they'll help you plan your visit around it -- this is definitely one of the most helpful tourist centers in any major city.

Once you've arrived, you also might want to stop by the Visitor Information Center, 529 St. Ann St. (tel. 504/568-5661), in the French Quarter. The center is open Tuesday to Saturday from 9am to 5pm and has walking- and driving-tour maps and booklets on restaurants, accommodations, sightseeing, special tours, and pretty much anything else you might want to know.

The following websites are also excellent information sources:

• www.NOLA.com: The Times-Picayune newspaper's site, has news plus nightlife, culture, and festival information, and good links.
• www.neworleansonline.com: Detailed info from the Tourism Marketing Corporation.
• www.gonola.com: Fun videos to get you in the mood for a visit.
• www.wwoz.org/livewire: To-the-minute nighttime music show listings.
• www.artsneworleans.com: Good source for arty events and plenty more.

Among the many blogs about New Orleans, www.myneworleans.com and www.blogofneworleans.com keep good track of the goings-on; www.appetites.us has excellent NOLA food coverage; perennial fave www.gumbopages.com still has plenty of information about New Orleans-related food and music, though of late it's taken a sharp turn toward cocktail mania. The following literate locals offer musings (and sometimes rantings) about food, music, politics, and the gamut of aspects of their beloved city:

• www.BlackenedOut.com: Food, food, and more food -- from a chef who knows it well.
• www.Fleurtygirl.com: Fun flirty videos-about-town.
• http://homeofthegroove.blogspot.com: Terrific music blog.
• www.HesaidShesaidNOLA.com: A local couple agree (or don't) on subjects about the city.
• http://redstreetcarline.wordpress.com: Good New Orleans ideas and finds.
• www.noladefender.com: Commentary and info on the city.
• http://b.rox.com: A catchall of politics, culture, warts, beauty spots, and so on.
• http://humidcity.com/: More interesting commentary for the post-Katrina era.

As for apps, all the big festivals have them, complete with helpful schedules (French Quarter Fest, Jazz Fest, Essence, Voodoo, and so on). For ongoing general information, we also like the apps from Nola.com, Offbeat, GoNola, the GuidePal New Orleans map, and the cool Experience Mardi Gras parade-tracker. All are available for iPhones, some for Android, and we remain hopeful for the Blackberry users.

Health & Safety

Health

No widespread mold and floodwater-related illnesses that were feared after Katrina ever materialized, nor have any ill effects on air or water supply from the Deepwater oil spill. (New Orleans is, after all, 150 miles from the spill; booze and butter overindulgence pose greater dangers.)

Health care is sufficiently but not extensively available (there are fewer available facilities than before Katrina, though construction recently began on a major new medical complex). If you have a medical condition that may require care, make appropriate arrangements before traveling to New Orleans. If you need a doctor for less urgent health concerns, try Ochsner Physician Referral Service (tel. 504/842-3155 or 842-4106; www.ochsner.org), or visit New Orleans Urgent Care, 900 Magazine St. (tel. 504/552-2433; www.neworleansurgentcare.com), Monday to Saturday from 11am to 7pm, Sunday from 9am to 1pm.

Pollen, sun, uneven sidewalks, overindulgence, and mosquitoes (especially near the swamps and bayous) are the most common medical annoyances. Packing the following items may help prevent minor health problems: insect repellent, especially during the hot or rainy periods; sunscreen; digestive aids; and antihistamines.

Safety

It's true that New Orleans has a high crime rate. But most of the serious crime is drug-related, and confined to areas where tourists do not go. Still, we urge you to be very cautious about where you go, particularly at night. In short, behave with the same savvy and street smarts you would demonstrate in any big city: Travel in groups or pairs, take cabs if you're not sure of an area, stay in well-lighted areas with plenty of street and pedestrian traffic, follow your instincts if something seems "off." Stay alert and walk with confidence; avoid looking distracted, confused, or (sorry) drunk. Speaking of which, one way to ensure you will look like a tourist -- and thus, a target -- is to wear Mardi Gras beads at any time other than Mardi Gras season.

Don't hang that expensive camera around your neck when it's not in use. Put it out of sight. Use camera cases and purses with a shoulder strap, carried diagonally over the shoulder so a simple tug won't dislodge them. Consider using a money belt or other hidden travel wallet. Women may want to ditch the trendy enormous bag and invest in a cute little shoulder-strappy thing for clubbing, one you can dance with rather than leave on your seat (better yet, go purse-free). And never leave valuables in the outside pocket of a backpack. Should you stop for a bite to eat, keep everything within easy reach -- of you, not a purse snatcher. If you must store belongings in a car, place them in the trunk, do not leave items visible through the window. It's always a good idea to leave expensive-looking jewelry and other conspicuous valuables at home anyway. And by all means, don't look for or buy drugs or engage in any illegal activity.

The French Quarter is fairly safe, especially during the daytime, thanks to the number of people typically present, but some areas are better than others. (Rampart and the north part of Esplanade have bad reputations.) On Bourbon Street be careful when socializing with strangers, and be alert to distractions by potential pickpocket teams. Dauphine and Burgundy are in quiet, lovely parts of the Quarter, but as you near Esplanade, watch out for purse snatchers. At night take cabs down Esplanade and into the Faubourg Marigny.

Conventional wisdom holds that one should not go much above Bourbon toward Rampart alone after dark. Nowadays, with the adjacent Armstrong Park and Treme neighborhood experiencing a bit of renaissance, more crowds and safer streets are in the offing. Still, for the time being, it's best to stay in or near a group if you can, and consider taking a cab, even if it seems silly, for the (very) short ride.

In the Garden District, as you get past Magazine toward the river, the neighborhoods can be rough, so exercise caution (more cabs, probably).

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Most disabilities shouldn't stop anyone from traveling in New Orleans. Thanks to provisions in the Americans with Disabilities Act, most public places are required to comply with disability-friendly regulations. Almost all public establishments (except a few National Historic Landmarks) and at least some modes of public transportation provide accessible entrances and facilities.

Be aware, however, that despite extensive efforts toward improvement, in New Orleans you are still dealing with many older structures created before thoughts of ease for those with disabilities. Before you book a hotel, ask questions based on your needs. If you have mobility issues, you'll probably do best to stay in one of the city's newer, more accommodating hotels.

Like the sometimes potholed or cobblestoned streets, maneuvering wheelchairs and walkers on the often bumpy and uneven sidewalks can be challenging (though most have curb cuts), and getting on the St. Charles streetcar might be too great a challenge. Other streetcar lines have lifts. Some French Quarter streets are closed to cars during certain parts of the day and allow pedestrian traffic only.

For information about specialized transportation systems, call LIFT (tel. 504/827-7433).

Fast Facts

African-American Travelers -- New Orleans’s African-American history is rich with important milestones, from the joyous nascence of jazz to the horrors of the slave trade to crucial civil rights achievements (to say nothing of the essential contributions to the city’s culture, cuisine, politics, and literature). The historic Tremé neighborhood is a touchstone in itself, with a number of worthy sights within its bounds, including the Backstreet Cultural Museum. The nearby African American Museum remains closed for restoration, but the statewide African American Heritage Trail is an excellent network of cultural and historic points; information and maps are available at www.astorylikenoother.com. A tour of the 9th Ward may be of interest. Here, the 9th Ward Living Museum and House of Dance and Feathers (1317 Tupelo St.; www.houseofdanceandfeathers.org; 504/957-2678; open by appt.) are essential for anyone interested in the Mardi Gras Indian tradition. The Essence Festival is a huge draw, and the restaurant and music options relevant to black heritage could fill a weeklong vacation.

Area Codes -- The area code for New Orleans is 504.

Business Hours -- They vary, but most stores are open from at least 10am to 5pm; bars can stay open until the wee hours, even 42/7, and restaurants’ hours vary depending on the types of meals they serve. Expect breakfast to start around 8am, lunch around 11am, and dinner at 6pm.

Cellphones -- See “Mobile Phones.”

Crime -- See “Safety.”

Customs -- For U.S. Customs details and information on what you’re allowed to bring home, consult your home country’s customs services agency. In the U.S., consult U.S. Customs at U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229 (www.cbp.gov; 📞 877/227-5511).

Doctors -- See “Health.”

Drinking Laws -- The legal age for purchase and consumption of alcoholic beverages is 21; proof of age is required and often requested at bars, nightclubs, and restaurants, so bring ID when you go out. Due to recent crackdowns, nowadays pretty much everyone—even senior citizens—may get carded. Alcoholic beverages are available round-the-clock, 7 days a week. Bars can stay open all night in New Orleans, and liquor is sold in grocery and liquor stores. You’re allowed to drink in public, but not from a glass or bottle. Bars will provide a plastic “go cup” into which you can transfer your drink as you leave (and some have walk-up windows for quick and easy refills).

         Warning: Although New Orleans has a reputation for tolerance, make no mistake: Public intoxication and “drunk and disorderly” are most definitely illegal, as many a jailed tourist can testify. Practice moderation and make smart decisions. And don’t even think about driving (car, motorcycle, or bicycle) while intoxicated: This is a zero-tolerance crime. Do not carry open containers of alcohol in your car or any public area that isn’t zoned for alcohol consumption. The police can fine you on the spot.

Electricity -- Like Canada, the United States uses 110 to 120 volts AC (60 cycles), compared to 220 to 240 volts AC (50 cycles) in most of Europe, Australia, and New Zealand. Downward converters that change 220–240 volts to 110–120 volts are difficult to find in the United States, so bring one with you.

Embassies & Consulates -- All embassies are in the nation’s capital, Washington, D.C. Some have consulate offices in major U.S. cities, including a few in New Orleans. To find a consulate for your home country, call for directory information in Washington, D.C. (📞 202/555-1212), or check www.embassy.org/embassies. It’s always a good idea to enter this information in your contacts before you leave your home country.

Emergencies -- For fire, ambulance, and police, dial 📞 911 from any phone (it is a free call). Calls from landlines (hard-wired phones) will route to the local emergency dispatch center. From mobile phones, immediately tell the operator your location and the nature of the emergency.

Family Travel -- New Orleans doesn’t spring to mind as the first place to take a child, but it offers plenty of activities and sights appropriate for children, who often get a real kick out of the city (and love Mardi Gras!). Summer months bring the heat but also the bargains, so weigh your family’s tolerance levels for a visit during school vacation.

Gyms -- Most hotels have a least a nominal fitness center. Some offer day passes to local gyms. Otherwise, workout day passes can be had at two Downtown Fitness (www.downtownfitnesscenter.com) locations convenient to the French Quarter and Bywater (333 Canal Place, 3rd floor; 504/525-2956; or 2372 St. Claude Ave; 504/754-1101). The storied, elaborate New Orleans Athletic Club has a fabulous indoor pool, library and (yup) bar (222 N. Rampart St.; www.neworleansathleticclub.com; 504/525-2375). The enormous Health Club at the Hilton New Orleans Riverside has two pools plus tennis, squash, and racquetball for additional costs (2 Poydras St.; www.thehealthclub.us; 504/556-3742). Members of the Anytime Fitness chain can find multiple locations around town.

There are also lots of free or inexpensive drop-in workouts around town. The Cabildo museum and Besthoff Sculpture Garden offer yoga classes. Move Ya Brass (www.moveyabrass.com) gives stretch, hip-hop, and twerk workouts in Crescent Park. The international free workout group November Project, has 5:15am and 6am workouts Wednesdays at Champions Square; Mondays at rotating locations (www.facebook.com/NovProjectNO).

Health -- The widespread mold and floodwater-related illnesses that were feared after Katrina never materialized, and there have been no ill effects on air or water supply from the Deepwater oil spill. Booze and butter pose greater dangers.

         Pollen, sun, uneven sidewalks, overindulgence, and mosquitoes (especially near swamps and bayous) are the most common medical annoyances. Packing insect repellent, sunscreen, protective clothing, digestive aids, and antihistamines may help prevent minor health annoyances. For “Hospitals,” see below. If you need a doctor for less urgent health concerns, try Ochsner On Call (www.ochsner.org; 504/842-3155 or 800/231-5257) or visit a New Orleans Urgent Care clinic (www.neworleansurgentcare.com): 201 Decatur St. in the French Quarter  (504/609-3833; Mon–Sat 9am–5:30pm); the Warehouse District (900 Magazine St.; 504/552-2433; Mon–Fri 9am–7pm, Sat–Sun 9am–5pm); or Mid-City (4100 Canal St.; 504/218-4853; Mon–Fri 8am–7pm; Sat–Sun 9am–5pm). Also see “Pharmacies,” in this section.

Hospitals -- In an emergency, dial tel. 911 from any phone to summon paramedics. Nearby emergency rooms are at Ochsner Baptist Medical Center, 2700 Napoleon Ave. (504/899-9311), and the Tulane University Medical Center, 1415 Tulane Ave. (504/588-5263).

Insurance -- Travel insurance is a good “safety net” if you think for some reason you may need to cancel or postpone your trip (or even if you don’t). Most medical insurance policies cover you if you are on vacation, but check with yours before you depart.

Internet, Wi-Fi & Computer Rentals -- New Orleans is a pretty well-wired city. Nearly all major hotels have free Wi-Fi in their lobbies, as do many cafes, bars, and all Starbucks (there’s one in the French Quarter in the Canal Place Mall, 365 Canal St.; 504/566-1223). The vast majority of hotels also offer some form of in-room Internet access, usually high-speed, often wireless. Many now include the cost in the room charge; some add a daily surcharge of $10 to $20. Barring that, the easiest option is simply to boot up and see what signals you get; or walk down any commercial street and look for “Free Wi-Fi” signs. Alternately, a concierge or front desk attendant should be able to direct you to nearby public Wi-Fi locations.

         Most larger hotels have business centers with computers for rent. Convenient FedEx Office locations with fully loaded rental computer stations are found at 555 Canal St. (504/654-1057) and 762 St. Charles Ave. (504/581-2541). Louis Armstrong International Airport has free, so-so Wi-Fi coverage in all passenger areas.

Language -- English is spoken everywhere, while French and Spanish are heard occasionally in New Orleans.

Legal Aid -- If you are pulled over by the police for a minor infraction (such as speeding), never attempt to pay the fine directly to an officer; this could be construed as attempted bribery, a much more serious crime. Pay fines by mail, or directly into the hands of the clerk of the court. If accused of a more serious offense, say and do nothing before consulting a lawyer. Here in the U.S., the burden is on the state to prove a person’s guilt beyond a reasonable doubt, and everyone has the right to remain silent, whether he or she is suspected of a crime or actually arrested. Once arrested, a person can make one telephone call to a party of his or her choice. The international visitor should call his or her embassy or consulate.

LGBTQ Travelers -- New Orleans is a very welcoming town with an extensive and active LGBTQ community, and many events specific to or attended by the community. For resources, start with Ambush Magazine, 828-A Bourbon St. (www.ambushmag.com). The Big Easy Metropolitan Community Church, 5401 S. Claiborne Ave. (www.MCCNewOrleans.org; 504/270-1622), serves a primarily gay and lesbian congregation. The website www.gayneworleans.com provides information on hotels, restaurants, arts, and nightlife. The local Lesbian and Gay Community Center (www.facebook.com/lgbtccno; www.lgbtccneworleans.org) lists events and info on its websites. More resources are listed at www.neworleansonline.com/neworleans/lgbt/lgbt_organizations. “The Twirl,” a gay-history walking tour of the French Quarter from G L-f de Villiers Tours, is highly recommended. Also see suggested night (and day) clubbing.

Mail & Shipping -- At press time, domestic postage rates were 35 cents for a postcard and 50 cents for a letter up to 1 ounce. For international mail, a first-class postcard or letter stamp costs $1.15. For more information, go to www.usps.com. Always include ZIP codes when mailing items in the U.S. Use the lookup tool at www.usps.com/zip4.

         If you aren’t sure what your address will be while in the United States, mail can be sent to you, in your name, c/o General Delivery at the main post office of the city or region where you expect to be. (Call 800/275-8777 for info on the nearest post office.) The addressee must pick up mail in person and produce proof of identity (i.e., driver’s license, passport). Most post offices will hold mail for up to 1 month and are open weekdays 8am to 4pm (Sat 9am–noon). New Orleans’s main post office (701 Loyola Ave. in the Central Business District) has longer hours. Private mailing services available include French Quarter Postal Emporium (1000 Bourbon St.; 504/525-6651; frenchquarterpostal.net).

Medical Care -- See “Health.”

Medical Requirements -- Unless you’re arriving from an area known to have rates of certain illnesses (particularly cholera, yellow fever, and now measles and Ebola), inoculations or vaccinations are not usually required for short-term visitors to the United States.

Mobile Phones -- Mobile (cell) phone and texting service in New Orleans is generally good, with the larger carriers all getting excellent coverage. Some dead zones still exist around the city and inside old brick buildings. International mobile phone service can be hit-or-miss (despite what you may have been told before you began your trip). If you plan to use your phone a lot while in New Orleans, it may be worthwhile to purchase an inexpensive, no-contract phone locally. You can get hooked up at most drugstores or Walmart (1901 Tchoupitoulas St.; 504/522-4142). Compare the plans’ sign-on offers, roaming and data use charges, usage requirements, and limitations to make sure you’re not purchasing more extensive or longer-term services than you need.

         If you have a computer and Internet service, consider using a broadband-based telephone service such as Skype (www.skype.com) or Vonage (www.vonage.com), which allow you to make free international calls from your computer. Neither service requires that the people you’re calling also have the service (though there are fees if they do not).

Money & Costs -- Frommer’s lists prices in U.S. dollars. The currency conversions quoted below were correct at press time. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.xe.com.

The Value of the U.S. Dollar vs. Other Popular Currencies

US$       C$             £                €               A$              NZ$

1.00      1.26          0.70            0.81          1.29            1.364

Costs in New Orleans are generally right in the middle of, and sometimes lower than, that in other midsize U.S. “destination” cities—less than New York, for example, but more than Phoenix. Prices have crept up over the last few years, so it’s no longer the great value it once was, and costs vary greatly by season. You can often find good hotel deals in the heat of summer, while prices often soar during big events. December’s prix-fixe Réveillon deals can get you into restaurants for dinners that might otherwise be prohibitive.

With a few cash-only exceptions, major credit cards are accepted everywhere (some don’t accept American Express, Discover, or Diner’s Club). Cash is king anywhere, and ATMs are plentiful throughout the city (including inside many bars and souvenir shops). Expect a $2.50 to $4 charge to use an ATM outside your network. To avoid the fee, most grocery and convenience stores will allow you to get a small amount of cash back with your purchase (from $10–$100, depending on store policy).

What Things Cost in New Orleans US$

Taxi from airport to the Quarter 36.00 (for 2 people)

Shuttle from airport to the Quarter 24.00 (per person)

Cost of bus/streetcar one-way 1.25

Day pass for bus/streetcar 3.00

Standard room at Ritz-Carlton 269.00–594.00

Standard room at The Chimes Bed & Breakfast 138.00–244.00

Standard room at Drury Inn 149.00–289.00

Order of 3 beignets or cup of café au lait at Café du Monde 2.42

Dinner at Commander’s Palace (3 courses) 51.00 (per person)

Dinner at Meauxbar (3 courses) 49.00 (per person)

Muffuletta sandwich at Central Grocery 22.00

Ticket to a show at Tipitina’s 10.00–45.00

Cost of a Hurricane at Pat O’ Brien’s with souvenir glass 12.00

Cost of a Pimm’s Cup at Napoleon House 7.00

Beware hidden credit-card fees while traveling. Check with your credit or debit card issuer to see what fees, if any, will be charged for overseas transactions, even if those charges were made in U.S. dollars. Check with your bank before departing to avoid surprise charges on your statement.

Newspapers & Magazines -- The city has two local papers: The Advocate (www.theadvocate.com/neworleans); and the Times-Picayune (www.nola.com). Offbeat (www.offbeat.com) and Where Y’ at (www.whereyat.com) are monthly entertainment guides with live music, art, and special event listings. Both can usually be found in hotels and clubs, and get scarce toward the end of the month. Gambit Weekly (www.bestofneworleans.com), which comes out every Sunday, is the city’s free alternative paper and has a good mix of local news and entertainment information.

Packing -- What to pack depends largely on what you plan to do while visiting New Orleans. But comfortable walking shoes are a must year-round. A compact umbrella will often be put to use, as will other raingear during the wetter months (and a sun hat for much of the year). A light sweater or jacket is needed even in the hottest weather, when the indoor A/C can get frigid. Casual wear is the daytime norm, but cocktail wear is appropriate in nicer restaurants, and some of the old-liners require jackets for gentlemen. Also see the suggestions under “Health” and “Safety”.

Passports -- Every air traveler entering the U.S. is required to show a valid passport (including U.S. citizens). Those entering by land and sea must also present a passport or other appropriate documentation. See www.dhs.gov/crossing-us-borders for more information. For more on passport requirements, contact the Passport Office of your home country. If you need to obtain or renew a passport, do this at least 6 months before your departure.

Pharmacies -- Pharmacies (aka chemists or druggists) are easily found. Large chain pharmacies, including Rite Aid, CVS, and Walgreens, operate throughout the city. There is a 24-hour pharmacy at the Uptown CVS at 4901 Prytania St. (504/891-6307)

Police -- Dial 📞 911 for emergencies. This is a free call from any phone. Calls from landlines will route to the local emergency dispatch agency. From mobile phones, immediately tell the operator your location and the nature of the emergency.

Safety -- It’s true that New Orleans has a high crime rate. But most (not all) of the serious crime is drug-related and confined to areas where tourists do not go. Still, we urge you to be very cautious about where you go, what you do, and with whom—particularly at night. In short, behave with the same savvy and street smarts you would demonstrate in any big city: travel in groups or pairs, take cabs if you’re not sure of an area, stay in well-lighted areas with plenty of street and pedestrian traffic, follow your instincts if something seems “off.” Stay alert and walk with confidence; avoid looking distracted, confused, or (sorry) drunk. In fact, avoid being drunk—that’s just a general good rule. Speaking of which, one way to ensure you will look like a tourist—and thus, a target—is to wear Mardi Gras beads at any time other than Mardi Gras.

         iPhones have become a target of grab-and-run thieves, especially since users, like those who text while walking, are frequently distracted. If you must check something on your phone, stop into a hotel lobby, bar, or shop.

         When it’s not in use, put that expensive camera out of sight. Use camera cases and purses with a shoulder strap, carried diagonally over the shoulder so a simple tug won’t dislodge them. Consider using a money belt or other hidden travel wallet. Ditch the trendy enormous bag and invest in a cute little shoulder-strappy thing for clubbing, one you can dance with rather than leave on your seat (better yet, go purse-free). Never leave valuables in the outside pocket of a backpack and if you must store belongings in a car, store them in the trunk. Leave expensive-looking jewelry and other conspicuous valuables at home. And by all means, don’t look for or buy drugs or engage in any illegal activity.

         On Bourbon Street be careful when socializing with strangers, and be alert to distractions by potential pickpocket teams. Use busy Decatur Street to walk from the French Quarter to Frenchmen Street.

         Scattered sections of the Tremé, Bywater, and the Irish Channel section of the Lower Garden District are transitional and may be considered sketchy. This shouldn’t dissuade you from visiting, but you should keep on your toes.

Single Travelers -- Single travelers, both male and female, should feel comfortable in New Orleans. People are generally friendly, and many restaurants, including some of the city’s finest, serve meals at the bar—a personal favorite spot when dining solo (Emeril’s, Coquette, Cochon, and Acme come to mind). Still, single women travelers in particular should heed the warnings in the “Safety” section, above.

Smoking -- The city council instituted a broad-reaching law in 2015, banning smoking indoors almost everywhere including hotels, restaurants, casinos, nightclubs, and bars (cigar and vape bars are excepted). Places with patios or courtyards can designate them as smoking areas, but not all do. It’s okay on the street a few feet from restaurant or shop entrances, and in most parks. Marijuana use in all forms is still illegal. For now.

Taxes -- The United States has no value-added tax (VAT) or other indirect tax at the national level. Every state, county, and city may levy its own local tax on all purchases, including hotel and restaurant checks and airline tickets. These taxes will not appear on price tags. The sales tax in New Orleans is 10%; the hotel room tax is 14% plus U.S.$1 to $2 per room per night.

         On the upside, international travelers who purchase goods in Louisiana to take to their home countries can often get the sales tax refunded in full. When you make your purchase, keep your receipt and also request a “tax back” voucher (you’ll be asked to show your passport). Before you leave the state, bring your receipts and vouchers to the Refund Center in the Outlet Collection at Riverwalk mall or New Orleans Airport (location in new airport had not been finalized at press time; check at airport information booth). You’ll be rebated in cash up to US$500. Larger rebates are mailed; see www.louisianataxfree.com for instructions and more information. Not all stores participate, so ask first.

         Also, many original works of art purchased in New Orleans are tax-exempt. Do inquire, as this applies in designated cultural districts only.

Telephones -- Hotel costs for long-distance and local calls made from guest rooms vary widely. Local calls range from complimentary to astronomically expensive; long-distance calls typically fall into the latter category. Calls to area codes 800, 888, 877, and 866 are free. If you intend to use the room phone, definitely inquire about phone charges. You may be better off using a mobile phone or a prepaid calling card. Public payphones are rare, but some (for example, at airports) accept credit cards. Most long-distance and international calls can be dialed directly from any phone. To make calls within the United States and to Canada, dial 1 followed by the area code and the seven-digit number. For other international calls, dial 011 followed by the country code, city code, and the number you are calling. For directory assistance (help finding numbers, aka “Information”) in the U.S. and Canada, dial 411. For other phone services, dial 0 to reach an operator for phone services within the U.S.; dial 00 for assistance with international calls. Also see “Mobile Phones”.  

Time -- New Orleans is in the Central Time Zone (CST), which is 6 hours earlier than Greenwich Mean Time. When it’s noon in New Orleans, it’s 10am in Los Angeles (PST); 1pm in New York City; 6pm in London (GMT); and 5am the next day in Sydney.

         Daylight saving time (summer time) is in effect from 1am on the second Sunday in March to 1am on the first Sunday in November, except in Arizona, Hawaii, the U.S. Virgin Islands, and Puerto Rico. Daylight saving time moves the clock 1 hour ahead of standard time.

Tipping -- Tips are a very important part of certain workers’ income, and the standard way of showing appreciation for services provided (it’s not compulsory if the service is poor, but most people leave a smaller tip rather than none at all). In hotels, tip bellhops $1 to $2 per bag ($3 if you have a lot of luggage) and tip the chamber staff $5 and up per night (more if you’ve been extra messy). Tip the doorman or concierge if he or she has provided you with some specific service (for example, calling a cab for you or obtaining tickets or reservations), $5 to $20 or more depending on complexity. Tip the valet-parking attendant $2 to $5 every time you get your car; more if you’re driving something you need to protect.

         In restaurants, bars, and nightclubs, tip service staff and bartenders 15% to 20% of the check, tip checkroom attendants $1 per garment, and tip valet-parking attendants $2 to $5 per vehicle. Some restaurants will automatically add a tip to the bill for larger parties (typically 18% for 6 or more guests, but this can vary). Check your bill or ask your server if gratuity has been included in your bill.

         As for other service personnel, tip cab drivers 15% to 20% of the fare, tip skycaps at airports at least $2 per bag (more if you have a lot of luggage), and tip hairdressers and barbers 15% to 20%.

Toilets -- You won’t find public toilets or “restrooms” on the streets in most U.S. cities, but they can be found in hotel lobbies, bars, restaurants, museums, department stores, railway and bus stations, and service stations. Large hotels are often the best bet for clean facilities. Restaurants and bars may restrict their restrooms to paying patrons, but it never hurts to ask.

Tours -- New Orleans offers tours geared toward antiquing, literature, history, gay and lesbian culture, ghosts, and Voodoo, along with tours of the fabled, stunning swamps, plantation homes, cemeteries, and various areas of New Orleans.

Travelers with Disabilities -- Most disabilities shouldn’t stop anyone from traveling in New Orleans. Most public places are required to comply with disability-friendly regulations. Almost all public establishments (except a few National Historic Landmarks) and at least some modes of public transportation provide accessible entrances and facilities.

         Still, a few places may be inaccessible, with regulatory allowances due to their historic nature. Before you book a reservation, call and inquire based on your needs. The city’s newer hotels, restaurants, and shops are fully accommodating, and many older ones have undergone excellent retrofitting.

         The city’s bumpy and uneven sidewalks (and sometimes potholed or cobblestoned streets) can be challenging for wheelchairs and walkers, though most have curb cuts. The St. Charles streetcar requires a big step up and does not have a lift; all other streetcar lines do.

         For paratransit information and reservations, call RTA Paratransit (www.norta.com/accessiblity; 📞 504/827-7433).

Visas -- The U.S. State Department has a Visa Waiver Program (VWP) allowing citizens from a long list of countries to enter the United States without a visa for stays of up to 90 days. Even for visitors from VWP countries and others for whom a visa is not necessary, an e-passport, online registration through the Electronic System for Travel Authorization (ESTA), and an electronic application are required before departing for the U.S. Travelers not eligible for VWP are still required to get a visa. Some travelers may also be required to present a round-trip air or cruise ticket upon arrival in the U.S. Canadian citizens may enter the United States without visas, but will need to show passports and proof of residence. Citizens of all other countries must have: (1) a valid passport that expires at least 6 months later than the scheduled end of their visit to the U.S., and (2) a tourist visa. All visa and passport information is subject to change. Check with the American Embassy in your home country at least 6 months before your planned departure and read up at http://travel.state.gov/content/visas/english/visit/visa-waiver-program.html

Visitor Information -- Even a seasoned traveler should consider writing or calling ahead to the New Orleans Convention & Visitors Bureau, 2020 St. Charles Ave., New Orleans, LA 70130 (www.neworleans.com; 📞 800/672-6124 or 504/566-5011; Mon–Fri 8:30am–5pm). The friendly staff can offer advice and help with decision-making; if you have a special interest, they’ll help you plan your visit around it—this is definitely one of the most helpful tourist centers in any major city.

         The Louisiana Office of Tourism New Orleans Welcome Center, 529 St. Ann St. (📞 504/568-5661; daily Tues–Sat 9am–5pm) has walking- and driving-tour maps; booklets on restaurants, accommodations, sightseeing, special tours; and more. Warning: Many of the tour offices and visitors centers scattered around the city are for-profit offices operated by tourism businesses hawking their wares. Rather than unbiased services that will recommend the best tour for you, these are commissioned sales offices. If you feel you’re getting sold something that’s not exactly right, you can always contact any tour company directly to buy tours. Or just use Frommer's unbiased recommendations!

Water -- Tap water is safe to drink in New Orleans, although bottled water is still popular. Treated water from the Mississippi River is the main source of tap water, as is true for most citieis along the Mississippi.

Tips for Families

New Orleans doesn't spring to mind as the first place to take a child, but there are plenty of activities and sights appropriate for children, who often get a kick out of the city (and love Mardi Gras!). They, too, probably dislike the heat, so summer months may not be best. Look for the "Kids" icon throughout this guide for accommodations, restaurants, and attractions that are particularly kid-friendly.

Tips for Single Travelers

Single travelers, both male and female, should feel comfortable in New Orleans. Many restaurants, including some of the city's finest, will serve meals at the bar -- a personal favorite spot when dining solo (NOLA, Coquette, Cochon, and Acme come to mind). Still, single women travelers in particular should heed the warnings.

Staying Connected

Telephones

Hotel costs for long-distance and local calls made from guest rooms vary widely. Local calls can be complimentary, or astronomically expensive; long-distance calls typically fall into the latter category. If you intend to use the room phone, definitely inquire about phone charges. You may be better off using a mobile phone, prepaid calling card (available at convenience and grocery stores in denominations up to $500), or a public pay telephone, which cost 25¢ or 35¢ for local calls (and are increasingly scarce). Many public pay phones at airports accept credit cards. Most long-distance and international calls can be dialed directly from any phone. To make calls within the United States and to Canada, dial 1 followed by the area code and the seven-digit number. For other international calls, dial 011 followed by the country code, city code, and the number you are calling.

Calls to area codes 800, 888, 877, and 866 are toll-free. However, calls to area codes 700 and 900 (chat lines, bulletin boards, "dating" services, and so on) can be absurdly expensive.

For reversed-charge or collect calls, and for person-to-person calls, dial the number 0 then the area code and number. An operator will come on the line. Specify whether you are calling collect, person-to-person, or both. If your operator-assisted call is international, ask for the overseas operator.

For directory assistance ("Information"), dial 411 for help finding numbers in the U.S. and Canada; for long-distance information, dial 1, the appropriate area code, plus 555-1212.

Mobile Phones

Mobile (cell) phone and texting service in New Orleans is generally good, with AT&T/T-Mobile and Verizon faring best, and Sprint lagging a bit behind. Some dead zones still exist around the city and inside old brick buildings. International mobile phone service can be hit-or-miss (despite what you may have been told before you began your trip). If you plan to use your phone a lot while in New Orleans, it may be worthwhile to invest in an inexpensive "pay as you go" phone from a local outlet. There's an AT&T store at 201 St. Charles Ave. (tel. 504/581-2900) and a Verizon store at 109 St. Charles Ave. (tel. 504/524-8888). Depending on the current offers, you may even get a generous credit for calls when you buy the phone -- enough to last through your trip, perhaps. Various calling plans are available. Most no longer charge for roaming but additional costs for texting or data downloading can add up. Definitely discuss the options to determine which one best suits your needs before making a commitment, and read the agreement to make sure you're not purchasing more services or a longer-term agreement than you need.

If you have a computer and Internet service, consider using a broadband-based telephone service (Voice over Internet protocol, or VoIP) such as Skype (www.skype.com) or Vonage (www.vonage.com), which allow you to make free international calls from your laptop or in a cybercafe. Neither service requires the people you're calling to also have that service (though there are fees if they do not).

Internet & Wi-Fi

Nearly all major hotels have free Wi-Fi in their lobbies, as do many cafes and all Starbucks (there's one in the French Quarter in the Canal Place Mall, 365 Canal St.; tel. 504/566-1223). The vast majority of hotels also offer some form of in-room Internet access, usually high speed, often wireless. A few include the cost in the room charge, but most add a usage fee between $5 and $15 daily. Most larger hotels have business centers with computers for rent.

To find public Wi-Fi hot spots, try www.jiwire.com; its Hotspot Finder holds the world's largest directory of public wireless hot spots. It may be nearly as easy to boot up and see what signals you get; or walk down any commercial street and look for "Free Wi-Fi" signs. It's a pretty well-wired city.

The Riverside Internet Café in the Riverwalk mall (tel. 504/299-1945) has rental computers, as does the Krystal Burger at 116 Bourbon St. (available 24 hr.; $5 for 20 min.).

FedEx Offices with fully loaded rental computer stations with Internet can be found at 555 Canal St. (tel. 504/654-1057) and 762 St. Charles Ave. (tel. 504/581-2541). Louis Armstrong Airport has Internet kiosks that provide basic Web access for a per-minute fee that's usually higher than cybercafe prices. To find other cybercafes, check www.cybercaptive.com and www.cybercafe.com.

Getting Around

By Car

Unless you’re planning extensive or far-flung explorations outside the major tourist zones (and, okay, we do recommend a few outlying destinations), you really don’t need to rent a car during your stay in New Orleans. The town is flat, ultra-picturesque, and made for walking; there are plenty of taxis (also Uber, Lyft, and pedicabs) and decent public transportation. Indeed, a streetcar ride is as much entertainment as a practical means of getting around. Meanwhile, driving and parking in the French Quarter can be a hassle. Many streets are narrow, potholed, crowded, and one-way. Outside the gridded Quarter, streets angle in logic-defying directions in attempt to align around the curvy Mississippi. Street parking is minimal and parking lots, including those at hotels, are fiendishly expensive.

That said, all the major car-rental agencies have a presence in New Orleans, at the airport and scattered around town. Rates vary widely according to company, demand, and when you book your reservation. Plan in advance, and shop around. You’ll pay a premium to pick up a rental at the airport, but it may be worth the convenience. If your stay is lengthy, weigh the difference between renting from a lower-cost, in-town location vs. transfer costs to and from that cheaper locale.

If you’re visiting from abroad and plan to rent a car in the United States, foreign driver’s licenses are usually recognized, but it's probably wise to get an international one if your home license is not in English. Insurance and taxes are almost never included in quoted rental-car rates in the U.S., and they can be significant.

To rent a car in the United States, you need a valid driver’s license and a major credit card (and a passport for foreign visitors). Some will accept a debit card with a cash deposit. The minimum age is usually 25, but Enterprise and Budget will rent to younger people for an added surcharge; they may also require proof of ability to pay (check with them, but it's often paycheck stubs and utility bills). It’s a good idea to buy insurance coverage unless you’re certain your own auto or credit card insurance is sufficient.

If you’re in town for a while or drive in often, download the Parkmobile app. Once you complete the annoying set-up, you can conveniently pay for most street meters via smartphone (and add meter time from afar—a huge plus).

At press time in New Orleans, the cost of gasoline was about $2.40 a gallon including tax, but we all know how that can fluctuate. Generally, gas costs in New Orleans tends to be at or slightly below the U.S. average. Gas stations are readily available on major streets, but none are located within the French Quarter.

When driving in New Orleans, right turns on a red light are legal except where no right turn on red signs are posted, so keep your eyes open for those. Sneaky red-light cameras abound (as do speed cameras, espcially in school zones). Similarly, many major intersections restrict left turns. Drive past the intersection, make a U-turn at the next allowable place, then double back and turn right (a maneuver sometimes called the “Louisiana left”).

Streetcars run down the center of Canal Street and St. Charles, Rampart, Carrollton, and Loyola avenues, requiring motorists to cross their paths frequently. Look both ways for streetcars, yield the right of way to them, and allow ample time to complete track crossings. They’ll brake if you’re in their way, of course, but it’s best not to get stuck on the tracks and impede their progress.

It is illegal to have an open container of alcohol, including “go cups,” in a moving car, and, of course, driving while under the influence of alcohol is a serious offense.

Keep doors locked and never leave belongings, packages, or gadgets visible in parked cars.

By Taxi or Rideshare

Taxis are plentiful in New Orleans, and except during the busiest times (Mardi Gras and Jazz Fest) they can be hailed easily on the street in the French Quarter and in some parts of the Central Business District. They also usually line up at taxi stands at larger hotels. Otherwise, call and expect a cab to appear in about 5 to 15 minutes; much longer during peak times, events, and in residential areas. The rate is $3.50 when you enter the taxi and $2.40 per mile thereafter. During special events, the rate is $7 per person (or the meter rate if it’s greater) to the event site. From the French Quarter to an uptown restaurant or club, expect to spend $12 to $25; cash or credit cards accepted.

The cab behemoth is United Cabs; book by phone or the United Cab Passenger app (www.unitedcabs.com; 504/524-9606). There's also Carriage Cab, the slightly upscale sister to Checker and Yellow Cabs (www.neworleanscarriagecab.com; 504/207-7777). You can even hire a taxi for a few hours or day at negotiable hourly rates (usually around $30/hour), a hassle-free way to tour far-flung areas of the city.

Uber and Lyft (available only by app) are usually readily available, but can be slow to show in the midst of big events. Expect the fare to be slightly less than standard taxis till surge prices kick in (which is often).

On Foot

We can’t stress this enough: Walking is by far the best way to see New Orleans (besides, you need to walk off all those calories!). You’ll miss the many unique and sometimes glorious sights if you whiz past them. Slow down, stroll, and take it in. If it’s just too hot, humid, or rainy, seek the shade or shelter of balconies and galleries, and there’s always a cab or bus nearby.

By Bike and Scooter

One of the best ways to see the city is by bike. The terrain is flat, the breeze feels good, there are new bike paths and improved driver awareness, and you can cover ground pretty swiftly on two wheels. But streets can be busy, bumpy, and potholed, so experience and comfort with city riding is a plus. Bicycle Michael’s, 622 Frenchmen St. (www.bicyclemichaels.com; 504/945-9505), is the oldest shop and still has good-quality, multigear hybrids and mountain bikes (most other rentals are cruisers) starting at $25 for a half-day (4 hr.), $35 a day. A Bicycle Named Desire, 632 Elysian Fields in the Marigny (https://abicyclenameddesire.com ; 504/345-8966), offers 4-hour rentals for $30, 24 hours for $35. At the other end of the French Quarter, American Bicycle Rentals, 318 N. Rampart St. (www.bikerentalneworleans.com; 504/324-8257), has super-sturdy, well-maintained, cushy-seated single-speed bikes with coaster brakes for $10 an hour, $30 for a half-day, $40 for 24 hours. If you’re staying uptown, hit Mike the Bike Guy, at $30 per day (open to close) (4411 Magazine St.; www.mikethebikeguy.com; 📞 504/899-1344). Rates cited above usually include a lock and optional helmet. All offer longer-term rentals; multi-day minimums may apply during Mardi Grass or Jazz Fest. (Desire and American also offer tours.)

Launched in 2018, the convenient Blue Bikes bike-sharing system has more than 500 bikes available to rent by the hour at 60+ “hubs” around the city. After creating an account tied to a credit card, you can grab and go at leisure for $8/hour, pro-rated (use the 60 min. over any length of time). Park the bike back at a hub or at any rack (within the system) for an extra $1. Bikes have lights and a lock but no helmets (not required but recommended in NOLA). Maps and details on the website and app. (www.bluebikesnola.com; 504/608-0603).

Avenue Scooters, 1134 St. Charles Ave. (www.avenuescooters.com.; 504/609-3838), will fix you up with a Lance PCH50. It's a fun, easy way to get around. Rates start at $60 for 3 hours; $80 per full day including helmet and lock. They get up to about 35 mph so you ride in car lanes (and get no love from four-wheeled drivers) and follow all traffic rules. Watch those potholes.

By Pedicab

These rickshaw-like tricycles will get two people from A to B via pedal power (a driver’s, not yours). They’re easy to hail in the French Quarter and occasionally seen in other tourist parts, or you can call to request one—try Bike Taxi Unlimited (504/891-3441) or NOLA Pedicabs (504/274-1300). Rates are $5 for the first 5 blocks, $1 per block per person after that (plus tip for your hard-riding driver). It’s a great option for fatigued feet or short hops; longer jaunts can add up fast so ask for the rate when you board.

By Ferry

The Canal Street/Algiers Ferry (www.norta.com/Maps-Schedules/New-Orleans-Ferry; 504/309-9789) is one of the city’s great assets for transportation to the old Algiers Point neighborhood and views of the city from the Mississippi River. It’s a down-and-dirty, working ferry, but it’s more than that at night, when the city’s glowing skyline reflects on the water. The 25-minute ride from the foot of Canal Street costs $2 each way, cash only. The ferry leaves New Orleans every 30 minutes Monday to Thursday from 6:15am to 9:45pm, Friday 6:15am to 11:45pm, Saturday 10:45am to 11:45pm, and Sunday 10:45am to 9:45pm. Check for schedule changes on holiday events and generally. It's pedestrians and bikes only, no cars. Note: A much-needed new ferry terminal and snazzy new boats are in the works, pending a 2020 launch. When you read this, a temporary, ADA-accessible terminal barge will be in use at the wharf just behind the Audubon Aquarium at 1 Canal Street.

By City Bus

New Orleans has a good public bus system that many locals rely on, so chances are there’s a bus that runs exactly where you want to go. The fare is $1.50; transfers are an extra 25 cents. You must have exact change in bills or coins, or you can use a JazzyPass. For route information, contact the RTA (www.norta.com; 504/248-3900) or pick up one of the excellent city maps at the Louisiana Office of Tourism New Orleans Welcome Center, 529 St. Ann St., in the French Quarter.

By Streetcar

Besides being a National Historic Landmark, the St. Charles Avenue streetcar is also a convenient, scenic, and fun way to get from downtown to uptown and back. The iconic green cars click and clack for 6 1/2 miles 24 hours a day at frequent intervals and get crowded at school and business rush hours. Board at Canal and Carondelet streets (directly across Canal from Bourbon St. in the French Quarter) or anywhere along the line.

The tracks wind beyond the point where St. Charles Avenue bends into Carrollton Avenue, ending at Palmer Park (Claiborne Ave.). The original cars run on the St. Charles line, so it’s not air-conditioned or wheelchair accessible (and it’s a big step up). All other lines have A/C and lifts.

The Riverfront streetcar line runs the length of the French Quarter, from the Old Mint at Esplanade past the Convention Center to the Pontchartrain Expressway, with stops along the way. It runs daily 5:30am to 11:30pm, and is a great foot saver as you explore the riverfront. The spiffy, bright-red cars on the Canal Street line service two destinations. Check the sign on the front of the car: “Cemeteries” goes to several of the older cemeteries and runs daily 5:30am to 4am; “City Park” goes through Mid-City, to City Park/the New Orleans Museum of Art and Jazz Fest (expect jammed streetcars during Jazz Fest). The City Park route runs between 5:15am and 11:35am.

The Loyola line runs along Loyola Street, connecting the Union Passenger Terminal (and Amtrak and Greyhound passengers) with the Canal Street line, and continues to the French Market on weekends (Sat–Sun 6:30am–9:30pm).

The N. Rampart Street/St. Claude line runs from Elysian Fields in the Marigny past Canal Street to the Union Passenger Terminal on Calliope Street every 20 minutes.

The fare for any streetcar line is $1.25 each way. Add 25 cents to transfer to or from a city bus. All streetcars take exact change in bills or coins only, or JazzyPasses.

Discounted Rides with the JazzyPass

If you don’t have a car in New Orleans, invest in a JazzyPass, which allows unlimited rides on all streetcar and bus lines. It’s a bargain and a convenience at $3 for 1 day; $9 for 3 days; $15 for 5 days. Single-day passes can be purchased when boarding. Get multiday passes at vending machines at the streetcar stops at Canal at Bourbon; N. Peters; White; or City Park streets. You can order them online, but you'll need to allow a week for the physical card to be mailed to you.  More info at Regional Transit Authority (RTA; www.norta.com; 504/248-3900).

Neighborhoods in Brief

The French Quarter: Made up of about 90 square blocks with Jackson Square at its center, this section is also known as the Vieux Carré (Old Square) and is bordered by Canal Street, North Rampart Street, the Mississippi River, and Esplanade Avenue. The Quarter (or FQ) is full of hotels, restaurants, clubs, bars, stores, residences, and museums. The most historic and best-preserved area in the city, it’s the focal point for most first-time visitors. Explore the neighborhood in detail with our French Quarter walking tour.

Faubourg Marigny -- Bordering the eastern edge of the French Quarter across Esplanade Avenue, the Marigny boasts the city’s premier nightlife center: famed Frenchmen Street. Named for 6 rebellious French dudes who were hung here for promoting formation of a new government (in 1768—8 years before the Declaration of Independence), Frenchmen Street is a must-visit haunt for music lovers and anyone seeking a scene. This small Creole suburb is populated by old-time residents, young urban dwellers who’ve moved in recently, and a thriving LGBTQ community.

Bywater -- This riverside neighborhood past the Faubourg Marigny, a hotbed of renovation and gentrification, still has its share of modest and rundown homes set amid sparkling renovations and artily rehabbed shotguns and double shotgun–style homes. Historically, the area was also home to immigrants, free people of color, and artisans; today many studios still dot the area, along with new hipster bars, cafes, and the freshly-minted Crescent Park.

Mid-City/Esplanade Ridge -- Stretching north from the French Quarter to City Park, Esplanade Ridge hugs either side of Esplanade Avenue (once the grande avenue of New Orleans’s Creole society, rivaling St. Charles Ave.). Crossing Esplanade is the historic Bayou St. John waterway, adjacent to the lovely Faubourg St. John neighborhood.Booming, popular Mid-City also encompasses City Park, and its residential neighborhoods stretch upward toward Lake Pontchartrain and include the recently developed biodistrict along Tulane Avenue.

Faubourg Tremé -- Directly across Rampart Street from the French Quarter, this dense 19th-century Creole community is one of the oldest African-American neighborhoods in the country. Home to many of the city’s best and best-known musicians, it is seeing some post-Katrina gentrification, but remains a dynamic, organic residential community (as highlighted in the eponymous HBO series). Once considered unsafe for tourists, it’s much improved, more populated and welcoming,. Still, as with many parts of the city, it has its share of crime. So do explore; just go with a pal and heed your Spidey sense.

Central Business District -- In the 19th century, Canal Street divided the French and American sections of the city. Historically New Orleans’s main street, it’s a far cry from the days of yore when white-gloved ladies and seersuckered men shopped this grand avenue. But several fine hotels, restaurants, and renovated theaters are evidence of Canal’s ongoing renewal. Uptown of Canal Street is the CBD, also roughly bounded by the elevated Pontchartrain Expressway (Business Rte. U.S. I-90) between Loyola Avenue and the Mississippi River. This hotbed of hip houses New Orleans’s major business and government offices, along with some of the city’s most elegant hotels, best restaurants, and the Mercedes-Benz Superdome. Within the CBD is the Warehouse District, which was just a heap of abandoned warehouses some 20-ish years ago. With the efforts of some dedicated individuals and institutions, it has evolved into a thriving residential and commercial neighborhood and is still growing madly. Besides cool loft conversions, terrific restaurants, and hot music clubs, the area also houses the city’s lively arts district, with major museums and myriad galleries along Julia Street. The entire CBD is still growing madly; construction projects abound (before booking, ask your hotel if any nearby construction might impact your rest or view).

Uptown/The Garden District -- Bounded by St. Charles Avenue (lakeside) and Magazine Street (riverside) between Jackson and Louisiana avenues, the Garden District (GD) remains one of the most picturesque areas in the city. Originally the site of a plantation, it was subdivided and developed as a residential neighborhood for wealthy Americans who built elaborate homes and gardens, some still existing. See our Garden District walking tour. The Garden District is located “uptown”; the neighborhood west of the Garden District is also called Uptown (the term is used for the direction and the area, just to confuse us). The Lower Garden District (LGD) refers to the segment between the Pontchartrain Expressway (I-90) and Jackson Avenue.

The Irish Channel -- The area bounded by Magazine Street and the Mississippi River, Louisiana Avenue, and the Central Business District got its name during the 1800s when more than 100,000 Irish immigrated to New Orleans and found (mostly blue-collar) work. Not much has changed. The quiet residential neighborhood, where the run-down mixes comfortably with the fixed up, is dotted with some amazing churches, a few good restaurants, a "triangle" bordered with cute shops, a whole lotta good dive bars, and the occasional cobblestone street.

Algiers Point -- Directly across the Mississippi River and connected by ferry, quaint Algiers Point is another original Creole suburb, largely unchanged if a little less lively than it was during the once-booming days of the railroad and dry-docking industries.

Central City: This sleepy neighborhood of shotgun houses was the city center for a thriving population of Irish, German, and Jewish immigrants in the early 1800s, as well as working-class African-Americans (including jazz legends Jelly Roll Morton, Buddy Bolden, and Professor Longhair). But hard times fell, blight set in, and while it’s still home to many, it’s long been eschewed by tourists. That’s changing with the recent blossoming of Oretha Castle Haley Boulevard, a renovated destination now home to worthy eateries and attractions. It’s an easy walk from the St. Charles Streetcar (Euterpe St. stop), but other than that it’s best not to stray far from OCH (as it’s known) after dark, to play it safe.

Carrollton/Riverbend: Once a resort destination for French Quarter denizens (a whopping 5 miles away—or an overnight train ride in the mid-1800s), this is now a charming, solidly middle- and upper-middle-class bedroom 'hood. The St. Charles streetcar makes the big turn here, as does the entire neighborhood, following the arching Mississippi River, after which the Maple Street and Oak Street stops both lead to sweet stretches for shopping, noshing, and hanging with the locals. Head riverside of St. Charles to stroll Maple Street; lakeside for Oak Street.

Getting There

By Plane

Most major domestic airlines serve the city’s Louis Armstrong New Orleans International Airport (MSY) (www.flymsy.com), along with several smaller regional lines. British Airways flies in from London, and Condor Air from Frankfurt. The airport is 15 miles west of New Orleans in the town of Kenner. Information booths are scattered around the airport and in the baggage claim area. Private planes often use Lakefront Airport, 9 miles from downtown. Note: New Orleans’ all-new, $990-million, Cesar Pelli–designed Louis Armstrong Airport is scheduled to open in February 2019.

Getting into Town from the Airport

Depending on the traffic and your mode of transportation, it takes approximately 30 to 45 minutes to get from the airport to the French Quarter or the Central Business District.

Most major rental car companies operate out of a unified facility that is accessed by a shuttle bus outside baggage claim. Follow the signs.

For $24 per person (one-way), the official Airport Shuttle New Orleans van (www.airportshuttleneworleans.com; 866/596-2699 or 504/522-3500) will take you directly from the airport to your hotel in the French Quarter, Garden District, Central Business District, or Faubourg Marigny. There are Airport Shuttle information desks (staffed 24 hr.) in the airport. Note: If you plan to take the Airport Shuttle to the airport when you depart, you must call a day in advance to arrange a pickup time. You can also book and pay for a round-trip ($44) in advance, via phone or online. It’s free for kids 5 and under and operates daily from 3:30am to 2am year-round.

A taxi from the airport to most hotels costs $36 for one to two people; $15 per person for three or more passengers per person. Follow signs to taxi and rideshare stands are outside the baggage-claim area. Uber and Lyft rates run about $37 to $39.

Airport Limousine also operates from the desks in the baggage claim area. Sedans to hotels start at $61 (www.airportlimousineneworleans.com; 855/735-5466 or 504/305-2450). Alternatively, arrange limo service via Bonomolo Limousine Service (www.bonolimo.com; 800/451-9258 or 504/522-0892). Airport transfer service in a Lincoln MKS runs about $99; ask about in-town hourly rates.

The cheapest option is by public bus. The New Orleans Regional Transit Authority (NORTA) express line No. 202 runs directly from the airport to Canal St. and Elk Place in the Central Business District eight times daily between 6am and 7pm. Other options: Ride the Jefferson Transit public bus No. E-2 for $2. It goes to Tulane Avenue and Loyola Street in the Central Business District Monday to Friday; on weekends it goes as far as Tulane and Carrollton in Mid-City, where riders can transfer to the Regional Transit Authority lines for an additional $1.25. Buses run from 5:20am weekdays (6:30am weekends). The Tulane/Carrollton line runs until around 9pm daily; the line to Loyola runs until 6:14pm Monday to Friday only. Follow signs outside baggage claim to the NORTA and RTA public bus stop. For more information, call Jefferson Transit (www.jeffersontransit.org; 504/818-1077) or the Regional Transit Authority (www.norta.com; 📞 504/248-3900).

By Car

You can drive to New Orleans via I-10, I-55, U.S. 90, U.S. 61, or across the Lake Pontchartrain Causeway on LA 25, then US 190. If possible, drive in during daylight to allow time to enjoy the distinctive swampy scenery. U.S. 61 or La. 25 offer the best views, but the larger roads are considerably faster.

Approximate drive time to New Orleans from Atlanta is 6.5 hours; from Houston it’s 5 hours; Chicago, 14 hours; Baton Rouge is an hour and a half away.

Driving in New Orleans can be a hassle, and parking is a nightmare. It’s a great city for walking, and cabs are plentiful and reasonable, so you really don’t need a car unless you’re planning several day trips. Nevertheless, most major national car-rental companies are represented at the airport.

International visitors should note that insurance and taxes are almost never included in quoted rental-car rates in the U.S., and they can be significant. See “Getting Around” for more on rental-car age and payment requirements.

By Bus

Greyhound buses service New Orleans from Union Passenger Terminal (UPT) at 1001 Loyola Ave. (www.greyhound.com; 504/524-7571), as does Megabus (us.megabus.com; 877/462-6342), which has cheap fares to/from select Southern cities where they connect to many others.

By Train

Passenger rail lines pass through some beautiful scenery. Amtrak (www.amtrak.com; 800/872-7245) trains serve the city’s Union Passenger Terminal, 1001 Loyola Ave. in the Central Business District. The station is on the recently completed Loyola streetcar line, and plenty of taxis wait outside the passenger terminal. Hotels in the French Quarter and the Central Business District are a short ride or a healthy walk away.

By Ship

It’s not usually considered “transportation,” but cruising to or from the Port of New Orleans is increasingly popular. Many passengers add a visit to the Crescent City before or after voyage—a right fine vacation. Ocean cruises include Crystal Cruises (www.crystalcruises.com; 888/722-0021); Carnival Cruises (www.carnival.com; 800/764-7419); Norwegian Cruise Line (www.ncl.com; 866/234-7350); and Royal Caribbean (www.royalcaribbean.com; 866/562-7625). Plying the Mississippi River are American Cruise Lines (www.americancruiselines.com; 800/460-4518); the luxe French America Line (www.frenchamerica.com; 888/387-1140); and the American Queen Steamboat Company (www.americanqueensteamboatcompany.com; 888/749-5280).

Taxi fare from the cruise terminal to most hotels is about $10 for the first person and $7 for each additional person. Parking at the terminalis $20 per day.

Tips for Black Travelers

New Orleans's African-American history is rich with important milestones, from the joyous nascence of jazz to the horrors of the slave trade (to say nothing of the essential contributions to the city's cuisine, politics, and literature). The historic Treme neighborhood is a touchstone itself, with a number of worthy sights within its bounds. The statewide African American Heritage Trail is an excellent network of cultural and historic points; information and downloadable maps are available at www.astorylikenoother.com. A tour of the 9th Ward may be of interest, and the House of Dance and Feathers (1317 Tupelo St.; tel. 504/957-2678) is essential for anyone interested in the Mardi Gras Indian tradition, though open by appointment only. The Essence Festival is a huge draw, and the restaurant and music options relevant to black heritage could fill a weeklong vacation without repetition.

Money

Frommer's lists prices in the local currency. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/convert/classic.

         Costs in New Orleans are generally right in the middle of, and sometimes lower than, other midsize U.S. “destination” cities—less than New York, for example, but more than Phoenix. Prices have crept up over the last few years, so it’s no longer the great value it once was, and costs vary greatly by season. You can often find good hotel deals in the heat of summer, while prices can soar during big events. December’s prix-fixe Réveillon deals can get you into restaurants for dinners that might otherwise be prohibitive.

         With a few cash-only exceptions, major credit cards are accepted everywhere (some don’t accept American Express, Discover, or Diner’s Club). Cash is king anywhere, and ATMs are plentiful throughout the city (including inside many bars and souvenir shops). Expect a $2.50 to $4.00 charge to use an ATM outside your network. To avoid the fee, most grocery and convenience stores will allow you to get a small amount of cash back with your purchase (from $10–$100, depending on store policy).

What Things Cost in New Orleans                                              US$

Taxi from airport to the Quarter                                                33.00 (for 2 people)

Shuttle from airport to the Quarter                                           20.00 (per person)

Cost of bus/streetcar one-way                                                  1.25

Day pass for bus/streetcar                                                       3.00

Standard room at Ritz-Carlton                                                  259.00–529.00

Standard room at The Chimes Bed & Breakfast                          128.00–250.00

Standard room at Drury Inn                                                     119.00–239.00

Order of 3 beignets or cup of café au lait at Café du Monde         2.42

Dinner at Commander’s Palace (3 courses)                                65.00 (per person)

Dinner at Irene’s Cuisine (3 courses)                                         44.00 (per person)

Muffuletta sandwich at Central Grocery                                      16.00

Ticket to a show at Tipitina’s                                                     10.00–30.00

Cost of a Hurricane at Pat O’ Brien’s with souvenir glass              12.00

Cost of a Pimm’s Cup at Napoleon House                                    7.00

         Beware of hidden credit-card fees while traveling. Check with your credit or debit card issuer to see what fees, if any, will be charged for overseas transactions, even if those charges were made in U.S. dollars. Check with your bank before departing to avoid surprise charges on your statement.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

New Orleans is a very welcoming town with a high-profile homosexual population that contributes much to the color and flavor of the city. You'll find an abundance of establishments serving every alternative interest, from bars to restaurants to community services to certain businesses. For resources, start with Ambush Magazine, 828-A Bourbon St. (www.ambushmag.com), which covers the scene; the website offers plenty of links to other interesting sites. The Gathering Place Worship Center, 3151 Dauphine St. (tel. 504/944-9836), and the Big Easy Metropolitan Community Church, 1333 S. Carrollton Ave. (tel. 504/214-4340; www.bigeasymcc.com), serve primarily gay and lesbian congregations. The website www.gayneworleans.com provides information on hotels, restaurants, arts, and nightlife. The local Lesbian and Gay Community Center, 2114 Decatur St. (tel. 504/945-1103; www.lgbtccneworleans.org), is staffed part-time by volunteers, but they can provide a wealth of info if you catch them when they're in.

Calendar of Events

January

Allstate Sugar Bowl Classic. First held in 1934, this is New Orleans’s oldest yearly sporting occasion. The football game in the Superdome is the main event, but in the days just beforehand, look for a second line parade to kick off the festivities, and a massive Fan Fest in the French Quarter. https://allstatesugarbowl.org; 504/828-2440.

February

Lundi Gras. This tradition brings a free, outdoor music-and-food celebration to Spanish Plaza (Poydras St. at the river), with the big event at 6pm: the ceremonial, waterfront arrival of the Kings of Rex and Zulu, marking the beginning of Mardi Gras. They’re welcomed by the mayor, fireworks, and much whoop-de-doo. 504/522-1555.  Monday before Mardi Gras.

Mardi Gras. The culmination of the 2-month-long carnival season, Mardi Gras is the centuries-old annual blowout. Each year the eyes of the world are on New Orleans, as the entire city stops working and starts partying, and the streets are taken over by awe-inspiring parades. Day before Ash Wednesday.

March

St. Patrick’s Day Parades. There are several, with dates (like the paraders) usually staggered. Instead of Mardi Gras beads, watchers are pelted with veggies, including the coveted cabbages. In 2019, a funky French Quarter parade kicks off at Molly’s at the Market (1107 Decatur St.). On St. Patrick’s Day, the downtown parade begins at 6pm at Burgundy and Piety in the Bywater and stumbles along a route to Bourbon Street (www.stpatricksdayneworleans.com; 504/525-5169).

Buku Music + Art Project. This packed millennial party of hip hop, EDM, acrobats, and visual artists is New Orleans’ answer to Electric Daisy or Movement. Sellout crowds of 35,000 anything-goes attendees fill the six stages overlooking the Mississippi River and floats at Mardi Gras World. Unsurprising, given artists like SZA, Migos, Kid Kudi, Flaming Lips, and Kendrick. Tickets for the 2018 Buku started around $100 per day; VIP packages were way more. www.thebukuproject.com. March 9–10, 2019.

St. Joseph’s Day Parade. Another fascinating, little-known festivity. Italians venerate St. Joseph, patron saint of families and working men, on his saint’s day with a parade (usually the weekend before) and the creation of devotional altars. These moving, elaborate works of art feature food, candles, and statues and can be viewed at various churches and private homes (where you might also get fed), and at the American Italian Museum, 537 St. Peters St. Locations are listed in the Times-Picayune classifieds and on www.nola.com prior to the event. 504/522-7294.

Super Sunday. At these annual Mardi Gras Indians gatherings, tribes garbed in full, feathered regalia preen, parade, and engage in ritualized showdowns with traditional chants. The Uptown event take place on the Sunday nearest St. Joseph’s Day (March 19) at A.L. Davis Park, Washington Avenue, and LaSalle Street, from noon till late afternoon, with music and food booths. The looser Downtown street meeting is usually a few weeks later on Bayou St. John at Orleans Avenue. For details, check with the Backstreet Cultural Museum (www.backstreetmuseum.org) or www.wwoz.org/inthestreet. Mid-March to mid-April.

Tennessee Williams New Orleans Literary Festival. This 5-day series celebrates New Orleans’s rich literary heritage with theatrical performances, readings, discussions, master classes, musical events, walking tours, and the ever-popular Stella Shouting Contest. It’s not exclusive to Williams, and the roster of writers and publishers participating is impressive. Info at www.tennesseewilliams.net or 504/581-1144.

Hogs for the Cause. No one who has been to Hogs will say New Orleans isn’t a BBQ town. Proceeds from this plethora of porky goodness supports pediatric brain cancer research. Some 85 cleverly named teams of talented pitmasters + rootsy music beside Lake Pontchartrain = darn good times. Ticket options range from $25 to $50. Go to www.hogsforthecause.org. 

April

The Crescent City Classic. This 10k race from Jackson Square to Audubon Park brings an international field of top (and lesser) runners to the city. www.ccc10k.com. 504/861-8686. Saturday before Easter. 

French Quarter Festival. The 4-day French Quarter Festival celebrates local music of the traditional jazz, brass band, Cajun/zydeco, or funk variety. The free event has become wildly popular, attracting more than 700,000 people. Scores of outdoor concerts, food booths, art shows, children’s activities, tours, and seminars are set throughout the Quarter, making it easy to return to your hotel for a rest, though some stages are at far-flung ends of the Quarter. Book travel early; this good time is becoming a victim of its own success. www.fqfi.org. 800/673-5725 or 504/522-5730.

Festival International de Louisiane.Some people split their festing between Jazz Fest and the popular (read: big) Festival International in Lafayette. The free, 5-day street fair, which focuses on French music and culture, overlaps with the first weekend of Jazz Fest so it dovetails nicely. www.festivalinternational.com. 337/232-8086.

New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival presented by Shell (Jazz Fest). A 7-day event that draws musicians, cooks, and craftspeople and their fans to celebrate music and life, Jazz Fest rivals Mardi Gras in popularity. www.nojazzfest.com. 504/410-4100.

May

Bayou Country Superfest. Country kings from classic to current (George Straight to Chris Stapleton to Kasey Musgraves) headline a Saturday concert in the Superdome, which anchors related events on the days before and after. Tickets $79–$395. www.bayoucountrysuperfest.com. 504/4123-4567. Memorial Day weekend.

Mid-City Bayou Boogaloo.Another weekend, another laid-back New Orleans music, art, and food fest. This one’s themeless, with the pretty location along Bayou St. John (and the rubber-ducky derby) being the draw for the largely local crowd. Bring a blanket, a parasol, and cash for snacks and brews, and go now before it gets too huge. www.thebayouboogaloo.com. 504/488-3865.

New Orleans Wine & Food Experience. Some 10,000 people attend this 3-day gourmandistic pleasure, at which 150 vintners, 75 restaurants, and myriad chefs feature their wines and wares via tastings, seminars, and vintner dinners. The culmination is a grand tasting held at Mardi Gras World, but the party really hit its stride with the Royal Street Stroll, where revelers indulge their way from one tasting station to the next along the closed street. www.nowfe.com. 504/529-9463.

June

Creole Tomato Festival. This sweet, smallish fest set in the French Market celebrates the 'mater with cooking demos, tastings, a Tomato Parade, and music of course. www.frenchmarket.org. 504/522-2621.

Louisiana Cajun-Zydeco Festival. This growing free fest sponsored by Jazz Fest recently relocated to Armstrong Park in the Tremé. Expect plenty of two-stepping, a few waltzes, lessons for both, arts markets, kids’ activities, and yes, food booths with a seafood focus. www.jazzandheritage.org/cajun-zydeco. 504/558-6100. 

Oyster Festival. Aw shucks, it’s a weekend dedicated to slurping delicious Gulf oysters and listening to live music while overlooking the Mississippi River at Woldenberg Park. Local restaurants serve up their best bivalve recipes and pro shuckers compete, all to promote the centuries-old local oyster fishing industry. It’s still free and the crowd is still mostly local. For now. www.neworleansoysterfestival.org. 504/888-7608. 

July

Essence Music Festival. This massive, 3-day event sponsored by Essence magazine consistently presents a stellar lineup of R&B, soul, and hip hop musicians (like Mary J., Kendrick, Usher, Prince [RIP], Chaka Khan, and George Clinton) in evening concerts on a main stage and clublike “Super Lounges.” During the day, this “party with a purpose” offers educational and empowerment seminars featuring A-list (Cosby! Oprah!) speakers and celebs, crafts, and trade fairs. In 2018 ticket prices ranged from $70 for a single day to $3,500 for a VIP weekend package. www.essence.com/festival.

Go Fourth on the River. The annual Fourth of July celebration begins in the morning along the French Quarter riverfront and culminates with a spectacular fireworks display at 9pm. www.go4thontheriver.com. 800/672-6124. July 4.

Tales of the Cocktail. This 6-day mixtravaganza celebrates all things liquor. Based at the Monteleone Hotel but pouring over into other venues, it’s a scholarly gathering of 20,000 hospitality professionals, serious mixologists, and admirers of the cocktail culture. (Read: If you make your own bitters and take 10 minutes to mix a drink, this might be for you. If your drink of choice is a PBR or whiskey neat, pass). The popular events, including “Spirited Dinners” (food and cocktail pairings at local restaurants), fill up fast. Go to www.talesofthecocktail.com. 504/948-0511.

Running of the Bulls. In perfectly imperfect New Orleans logic, Bastille Day, the famed Pamplona event, and the city’s mixed French-Spanish heritage are celebrated with a reenactment of the manic dash, except the bulls are roller-skating Big Easy Rollergirls and other roller derby clubs using plastic bats as horns. Pomp, parties, and hilarity accompany what is now the centerpiece of a 3-day San Fermin in Nueva Orleans fiesta. www.nolabulls.com. 800/672-6124.

August

Satchmo Summerfest. Louis Armstrong, hometown boy made very good, is celebrated with his own festival, held around his real birthday (he claimed to be born on July 4, but records prove otherwise). There’s food, music, kids’ activities, and seminars, with the emphasis on jazz entertainment and education to ensure that Satchmo lives on. The token $5 admission is well worth it. www.fqfi.org. 504/522-5730. 

September

Southern Decadence. This multiday, multinight dance/party/raunchfest attracts more than 100,000 gay men (and some women) from around the world. The frenzied peak is during the bar-studded parade route. Book rooms early or get a weekend ticket package in advance to save line time; and even if you’re not too hot for leather, September in New Orleans is. www.southerndecadence.net. Labor Day weekend.

October

Festivals Acadiens & Creoles. Much smaller than the nearby Francophone-focused Festival International, this Lafayette event doesn’t conflict with Jazz Fest. It combines the Bayou Food Festival, the Festival de Musique Acadienne, and the Louisiana Native Crafts Festival. Players, bring your instruments—there’s a jam tent. It’s fun, easygoing, tasty, and free, so spend freely to help keep it going. www.festivalsacadiens.com. 800/346-1958 in the U.S., 800/543-5340 in Canada, or 337/232-3737. Call or check website for exact dates.

Crescent City Blues & BBQ Festival. A recent rash of credible BBQ restaurants might finally be changing the city’s low profile in the pantheon of great BBQ destinations. They’ll be strutting their stuff at this free fest, located in Lafayette Park in the Central Business District. Add two stages for blues tunes, a good lineup, and consider our folding chairs strapped on. This one is set to blow up. www.jazzandheritage.org/blues-fest. 504/558-6100.

Halloween. Halloween is celebrated especially grandly in this haunted city, rivaling Mardi Gras for costume outrageousness. The French Quarter is Halloween central (especially for the LGBT crowd), where the Krewe of Boo parade rolls a week or so before Halloween (www.kreweofboo.com); another parade leaves Molly’s at the Market (p. ###) on Halloween Night. Other ghoulish action includes Boo-at-the-Zoo (last 2 weekends in Oct) for kids; and the truly scary Mortuary Haunted House in Mid-City (www.themortuary.net). October 31 and surrounding days.

Ponderosa Stomp. This weekend celebration of early American rock is a mecca for fans and students of all things roots—blues, twang, swamp, thrash, or beyond—who attend scholarly daytime conferences, and nighttime concerts by seminal but largely unheralded performers. www.ponderosastomp.org. 504/810-9116. Call or check website for exact dates.

Voodoo Music Experience. The monstrous 3-day Voodoo Fest draws 150,000 youngish people to the City Park festival grounds, where over 100 acts fill 6 stages and a huge dance space. The diverse lineup features major stars from Metallica to Macklemore and Skrillex to Snoop Dogg, plus up-and-comers and a solid crop of locals. Eclectic art and exotic performances, Halloween-costumed people-watching, and food and drink round out the available diversions. Tickets range from $125 to $1,000. www.worshipthemusic.com.

November

Words & Music: A Literary Fest. This highly ambitious literary and music conference offers round-table discussions with eminent authors with varying connections to the city; original drama, poetry readings, master classes, and writing competitions. https://faulknersociety.org. 504/586-1609. Mid-November.

Po-Boy Festival. Okay, you could just go to the participating restaurants any other day of the year—surely the wait will be shorter—but there probably won’t be a blessing of the po’ boy. This 1-day fest along Oak Street is crazy crowded, but there are indeed some dang deelish sandwiches and it’s a fun locals’ scene. www.poboyfest.com. Late November.

December

LUNA Fête. An immediate hit after its 2014 debut, this free, multi-day, multi-location “Light Up” festival uses lighting, music, and video projected onto architecturally significant buildings around Lafayette Square, creating artistic awesomeness. www.artsneworleans.org/event/luna-fete. 

Christmas, New Orleans Style. It’s no surprise that the ever-celebratory New Orleaneans do Christmas really well. The town is decorated to a fare-thee-well and there are nightly concerts in St. Louis Cathedral and candlelit caroling in Jackson Square. Bonfires line the levees along the River Road on Christmas Eve (to guide Papa Noël, in his alligator-drawn sled), and house tours offer glimpses of stunningly turned-out residences. Lowered room rates and discounted “Réveillon” restaurant dinners also make this an economically attractive time to visit. www.neworleansonline.com/christmas. 504/522-5730. Throughout December.

Celebration in the Oaks. Thousands of lights illustrating holiday themes bedeck sections of City Park, and a walking and miniature-train tour lets you take in the charm and grandeur at your leisure. It’s simple, affordable, nostalgic winter wonderment for the whole family. Plus there’s ice skating and amusement-park rides. www.neworleanscitypark.com. 544/482-4888. Late November to early January.

New Year’s Eve. The countdown party takes place in Jackson Square and, in the New Orleans equivalent of Times Square, revelers watch a lighted fleur-de-lis drop from the top of Jackson Brewery. Fantastic fireworks ensue. December 31.

Orientation

Where y’at?” goes the traditional local greeting. “Where” is straightforward in the French Quarter, a 13-block-long grid between Canal Street and Esplanade Avenue, running from the Mississippi River to North Rampart Street.

After that, fuggedaboutit. Because of the bend in the river (the “crescent” in the “Crescent City” moniker), the streets are laid out at angles and curves that render directions useless. Readjust your thinking to New Orleans’s compass points: lakeside, riverside, uptown, and downtown. You’ll catch on quickly if you keep in mind that North Rampart Street is the lakeside boundary of the Quarter and Canal Street is its uptown border. And by all means, use maps—you’ll need them.

Note that street names change when they cross Canal Street: Bourbon Street becomes Carondelet, and Royal becomes St. Charles, for example.