It’s easy to see why this historic wine bar is the place where the locals gather. The vaulted restaurant has brown leather banquettes and bare wooden tables; a ham ready for carving sits pride of place on the bar, and the waiters work swiftly carrying loaded trays above their heads. Part-brasserie, part-bodega, you can take a quick lunch of Bigorre ham and a glass of wine, be more serious with the likes of Bresse chicken with mushroom sauce or go for the special grilled fish. Owner Michel Hermet knows his wines; he comes from a family of wine makers so try some of the 300 varieties of wine in stock, with 13 to 15 available by the glass each day. In summer eat and sip on the outdoor terrace.