This formerly austere restaurant has been updated with faux maple trees that reflect the progression of seasons. But if you think that means that Seiji Kumagawa, aka the “Sushi Nazi,” has also softened up, you’d be mistaken. Sitting at his sushi bar and submitting to the omakase menu means you’ll eat what he decides to feed you, and you’ve given up all control of your own soy sauce and wasabi dish. Follow his orders (dip gently in soy sauce only when instructed), and your reward is gorgeous orbs of house-cured ikura, scallop dusted with yuzu kosho (a citrusy, peppery condiment), mackerel topped with a translucent sheet of seaweed, and fish you may have never heard of. The rice is just as important—watch how Kumagawa molds it, just so, and then feel it break apart softly in your mouth, melding with the fish. This is sushi art. Tip: For sushi without the stress, sit at a table, where you’re free to order sushi a la carte.