Things To Do in Oban

To appreciate the coastal scenery of Oban, consider renting a bike and cycling around. They're available at Oban Cycles, Unite 9 Mill Lane (tel. 01866/822-736; http://rcscycles.co.uk). The cost is £14 per day.

Near the little granite Cathedral of the Isles, 1.6km (1 mile) north of the end of the bay, is the ruin of the 13th-century Dunollie Castle, seat of the lords of Lorn, who once owned a third of Scotland.

On the island of Kerrera stands Gylen Castle, home of the MacDougalls, dating back to 1587.

You can visit Dunstaffnage Castle (tel. 01631/562-465; www.undiscoveredscotland.com), 5.5km (3 1/2 miles) north, believed to have been the royal seat of the Dalriadic monarchy in the 8th century. It was probably the site of the Scots court until Kenneth MacAlpin's unification of Scotland and the transfer of the seat of government to Scone in the 10th century. The present castle was built around 1263. It's open April to September daily from 9:30am to 5:30pm, and from October to March Saturday to Wednesday from 9:30am to 4:30pm. Admission is £3.70 adults, £3 seniors, and £1.85 children 5 to 16. You can take a bus from the Oban rail station to Dunbeg, but it's still a 2.5km (1 1/2-mile) walk to the castle.

Many of the crafts items produced in local crofts and private homes eventually end up at gift shops in Oban, where they're proudly displayed among the finest of their kind in the West Country. One of the best outlets is McCaig's Warehouse, Argyll Square (tel. 01631/566-335), where the tartan patterns of virtually every clan in Scotland are for sale, either by the meter or in the form of kilts, jackets, traditional Highland garb, or more modern interpretation of traditional fashions.

Celtic-patterned jewelry, made from gold, silver, or platinum, and sometimes studded with semiprecious gems, is featured at The Gem Box, Esplanade (tel. 01631/562-180).

If all other shopping options fail, consider the gift items displayed at the Oban Tourist Information Office, Argyll Square (tel. 01631/563-122). Inventories include tartans, jewelry, woodwork, and glassware, usually crafted into Celtic designs, and books covering myriad aspects of what to see and do in Scotland.

If you absolutely, positively must have a kilt, a cape, or a full outfit based on your favorite Highland regiment, head for one of the town's two best tailors: Hector Russell, Kiltmaker, Argyll Square (tel. 01631/570-240; www.hector-russell.com), and Geoffrey Tailors, Argyll Square (tel. 01631/570-557).

A popular hangout is the town's Irish pub, O'Donnells, Breadalbane Street (tel. 01631/566-159), where you can expect a warm reception. It serves the ever-popular Guinness and a variety of Irish and Scottish malt whiskies. Thursday to Saturday, entertainment is either a live band or a DJ. Over the busy summer, something is scheduled almost every night. Hours are daily 3pm to 1am.