Things To Do in Obidos

In the Renaissance church Igreja de Santa Maria, blue-and-white azulejos (tiles) line its interior. Look for the Renaissance tomb and the paintings of Josefa of Óbidos, a 17th-century artist. The church lies to the right of the post office in the central square. It's open daily 9:30am to 12:30pm and 4:30 to 7pm April to September, and 9:30am to 12:30pm and 2:30 to 6pm October to March. Admission is free. For information, call tel. 26/295-96-33.

The other major attraction in Óbidos is the castelo (part of which is now a tourist inn). The castle suffered severe damage in the 1755 earthquake but was restored. It's one of Portugal's greatest medieval castles, with a host of Manueline architectural elements. In 1148, Dom Afonso Henríques and his troops, disguised, incredibly, as cherry trees, captured the castle from the Moors. The Moors were driven from the land, and Henríques went on to become the founding father of Portugal; he was proclaimed its first king.

The main entrance to Óbidos is a much-photographed gate, the narrow, zigzag Porta da Vila. Be sure to watch your car mirrors as you pass through it.

Save some time for browsing through the shops and searching out thick woven fabrics, regional rugs (both hand- and machine-made), raffia and handmade bags, and local lace.

Óbidos is one of the most folkloric towns in Portugal; dozens of boutiques line the town's main street, Rua Direita. These stores are loaded with ceramics, embroideries, wine, and woodcarvings. Individual outlets of note include the Oficina do Barro, Praça de Santa Maria (tel. 26/295-92-31), which is associated with the town's tourist office. It maintains a studio (open to visitors) that produces delicate ceramics -- usually glazed in white -- that resemble the texture of a woven basket. Loja dos Arcos, Rua Direita (tel. 26/295-98-33), sells wine, leather, and ceramics that are usually a bit more interesting than the wares at equivalent shops nearby.