Things To Do in Oradea

Oradea has a fairly manageable center, its north and south divided by the Crisul Repede River, which flows through the city. The two main points of focus -- Piata Republicii (north) and Piata Unirii (south) -- lie on either side of the river, linked by one of several bridges. Running northeast from one corner of Piata Republicii is Calea Republicii, a long pedestrianized road lined with lovely buildings. Oradea's Citadel lies east of Piata Unirii, beyond the large Parcul Central, and behind a blight of modern concrete blocks.

Take a casual stroll down pedestrianized Strada Republicii, recently revamped and lined on both sides by an endless succession of Secessionist buildings, and you'll wish you were spending more time in the city, if only to browse the numerous shops and take plentiful breaks at the cafes. At its southern end, Republicii joins Piata Regele Ferdinand, where you can ogle the beautiful facade of the neoclassical State Theater (Teatrul de Stat; tel. 0259/41-7864; www.oradeatheatre.com), designed by Helmer and Fellner in 1900. Also worth a gander on this square is the facade of the Art School (Scoala de Arte Oradea), now the seat of the Philharmonic Orchestra.

Head south across the bridge over River Crisul Repede to reach wide-open and startlingly empty Piata Unirii; directly in front of you as you cross the river, is a Catholic church obscuring the view of a statue of Mihai Viteazul, the great Wallachian prince said to have passed through the city before the end of his reign (1593-1601). On your right is the City Hall, built in 1902 and 1903, and source of the hourly tolling of the city's bell. On your left, in the distance beyond the statue of Mihai Eminescu, you'll see the synagogue, decaying, but worth investigating (you may need to tip the "warder"). Beyond the City Hall is the library, built in 1905; opposite is the renovated Art Nouveau "Black Vulture Palace," or Palatul Vulturul Negru (1907-09), which conceals a mall-like arcade and namesake hotel; bars, restaurants, and casinos occupy the warrenlike passageway under a wonderful stained-glass ceiling. Just down from the Black Vulture is Oradea's Orthodox Moon Church (Biserica cu Luna); built between 1784 and 1790, it is named for its unique mechanical lunar phase indicator.

To the east of Piata Unirii -- beyond the central park, apartment blocks, and busy main road intersection -- is Oradea's 13th-century citadel, much expanded in the 18th century, when it took its present five-cornered bastion-enhanced proportions. Situated just south of the Criul Repede, the crumbling fortress -- home of the university's art department -- is used for the odd upbeat event. Look out especially for medieval festivals held here in early July, when the citadel becomes a playground: There's a mix of folk, contemporary, and hard-core medieval music, and the best archers in the region compete in a serious test of mettle, dressed in Knights of the Round Table costumes of varying degrees of authenticity.