Hotels in Pacific Harbour

In Pacific Harbour -- Another option here is the Lagoon Resort (tel. 345 0100; www.lagoonresort.com), a 21-room hotel about 2km (1 1/4 miles) inland beside the Qaraniqio River and near the Pearl South Pacific Championship Golf Course. It attracts primarily divers and ardent golfers who don't care about a beachside location. The crew of the movie Anaconda stayed at the Lagoon and left behind the Bloody Mary, the rickety boat that played a leading role (it's now part of the bar). Rates range from about F$175 (US$114/£58) for a room to F$335 (US$218/£112) for a suite.

On Beqa Isalnd -- Cost-conscious travelers can stay at Lawaki Beach House (tel. 992 1621 or 926 9229; www.lawakibeachhouse.com), on Beqa's southwestern coast. It has two simple bures with bathrooms and porches, a six-person dormitory, and space for campers. Rates range from F$52 (US$34/£17) to F$95 (US$62/£32) per person, including meals. Lawaki Beach House does not accept credit cards.

You don't have to be a surfer dude to hang out at little Batiluva Beach Resort (tel. 345 0384 or 992 0019; www.batiluva.com), on hilly Yanuca Island near the western edge of Beqa Lagoon, but the big breaks on nearby Frigate Passage are its main attraction. Accommodations are in simple bungalows and dormitories. Rates are F$175 (US$114/£58) per person, including meals.