Europe / Spain / Navarre and La Rioja / Pamplona / Best Restaurants

Europa

Chef Pilar Idoate likes to play with her food. She’ll take the humble porrusalda, a Basque potato-leek soup, and substitute green garlic shoots for the leek and accompany the bowl with a mix of shellfish and lightly steamed green asparagus. In a similar fashion, she will substitute sticky rice for the usual paella rice, add a small dice of mixed vegetables, and serve it with grilled squid bodies and quickly fried tentacles (calamari). This sort of inventiveness has won her a Michelin star, but she is equally adept at traditional dishes like slow-cooked milk-fed lamb that comes out golden from the oven and is served with a skewer of lamb sweetbreads. Idoate’s three-course menu is an especially good deal as it includes glasses of the excellent Basque country house wines.