Things To Do in Panajachel

The principal activities in Panajachel are strolling along Calle Santander and the lakeshore, shopping, and hanging out in one of the cafes, bars, or restaurants.

The main Catholic church, located in the heart of the Old Town, dates back to 1567, and was meticulously restored in 1962. This small church is wonderfully maintained and remains very active to this date. The old stone facade looks almost whitewashed, and the diminutive plaza in front of the church is a major meeting place for locals.

Language schools attract many visitors to Guatemala. While most of the language school action is centered across the lake in San Pedro, there are several Spanish schools in Panajachel. The best of these include Jardín de América Spanish School (tel. 502/7762-2637; www.jardindeamerica.com) and the Pana Atitlán Language School (tel. 502/7762-1196). Rates are around Q750 to Q1,125 ($100-$150/£50-£75) per week for 4 hours of class per day and a homestay with a local family.

Calle Santander and the road ringing the lakeshore are crammed with street vendors selling all sorts of Guatemalan handicrafts, ranging from clothing and other textile products to stone and woodcarvings and leather goods. There are also a fair number of stalls selling handmade jewelry and trinkets, but these are relatively run-of-the-mill works that have no real connection to the land or its people and are nothing compared to native arts and crafts.

Just uphill from the Catholic church is the main market area of Panajachel. Here you will find vendors selling fruits, vegetables, household goods, and flowers mixed in with butchers and some stalls selling arts, crafts, and textiles.

If you're looking for higher-quality pieces, check out K'frans, Calle Santander 1-83, Zona 2 (tel. 502/7762-0332), which has high-end cotton clothing for both men and women with interesting designs and excellent workmanship. For leather goods -- belts, handbags, and shoes -- try Pajayub, Calle Santander, across from Telgua (tel. 502/7762-0040).

The nearby towns of Santiago de Atitlán, Santa Catarina Palopó, and Sololá have deep and highly developed arts, crafts, and textile traditions. It's worth taking a trip to one or all of these towns to shop for the local wares. See below for more information on these towns and how to visit them. In addition, Panajachel makes a perfect base for visiting nearby Chichicastenango on market day. All of the tour operators in town offer day trips to Chichi on Thursdays and Sundays.

Panajachel has a fairly active nightlife. For the past 15 years, my favorite place has been the Circus Bar (tel. 502/7762-2056), Avenida Los Arboles, which has a relaxed vibe, simple menu, and decor to match the joint's name. They also frequently have live music. This is also the first place I ever tried Ron Zacapa, Guatemala's world-class 23-year-old aged rum. Circus Bar, just north of Calle Principal, is located in what's considered Panajachel's mini-Zona Viva.

Of the bars on Calle Santander, I like the Maktub'ar Café, which has a relaxed, almost beach-bar feel, and Pana Rock Café (tel. 502/7762-2194), which is a takeoff on the Planet Rock chain.

For a mellow night, La Terraza, Calle Santander (tel. 502/7762-0041), is a second-floor bar and restaurant area with a balcony overlooking Calle Santander.

For loud and late-night dancing, try Sócrates Disco, Calle Principal (tel. 502/7762-1015); El Aleph, Avenida Los Arboles (tel. 502/7762-0192); or El Chapiteau Discoteque, Avenida Los Arboles (tel. 502/7762-0374).