Things To Do in Panama City

Few cities in the Americas can compete with Panama City when it comes to things to see and do. Some travelers spend their entire visit in and around Panama City, touring sights such as the historical ruins of Panama Viejo, walking the enchanting streets of Casco Viejo, visiting Natural Metropolitan Park, or strolling along the Amador Causeway. Visitors can also head outside the city limits for day excursions such as boating in the canal, bird-watching and trekking in Soberanía National Park, and visiting Emberá Indian villages.

It is recommended that travelers book a city tour; transportation is included, and the experience is enriched by interpretative background provided by a bilingual guide. Half-day city tours include a morning visit to Old Panama and Casco Viejo; full-day tours head to the Miraflores Locks at the canal in the afternoon. Panama Tour Bus tel. 264-4466; www.panamatourbus.com) offers a bilingual hop on, hop off tour that picks you up at your hotel -- or the hotel closest to you -- with stops at the Panama Canal, Albrook Shopping Mall, the Amador Causeway, and Casco Viejo. Tours cost $30 (£15). There's no need to buy tickets ahead of time, just call ahead to find out what time they'll be picking passengers up at your hotel. Ancon Expeditions (tel. 269-9415; www.anconexpeditions.com), Gloria Mendez Tours (tel. 263-6555; www.viajesgloriamendez.com), Panama Travel Experts (tel. 265-5323; www.panamatravelexperts.com), and Pesantez Tours (tel. 263-8771; www.pesantez-tours.com), also offer full and half-day tours of Panama City and the surrounding area.

If you want to see Panama City on your own, taxi drivers charge between $15 and $25 (£7.50-£13) per hour. Every hotel has a personal recommendation for a private cab and can arrange the details.

Museums -- Museums across Panama are under-funded and poorly staffed, and the story here in the capital isn't any different just because it's a metropolitan city. Things could change when the Museo Antroologico Reina Torres fully reopens at its new location on the edge of Parque Natural Metropolitano. The project is far behind schedule and currently only one exhibition is open to the public, but the museum should be up and running by early 2009. The Canal Museum in Casco Viejo has modernized its tours, with bilingual interpretive signs and guides.

Beyond this, most museums in Panama City are worth visiting only if you happen to already be in the neighborhood. Perhaps local indifference to the city's museums arises from the fact that many are closed on Saturday, Sunday, and holidays -- the very time when most locals are able to visit. Volunteers and nonprofit organizations are the ones who keep the museums hanging in there, sometimes only by a thread.

Panama Viejo

Panama Viejo, or Old Panama, comprises the ruins of the oldest capital in the Americas, and is a proud emblem -- not to mention the most popular tourist attraction -- in this historic city. The ruin site covers 23 hectares (57 acres) on the city's eastern edge, where visitors will find crumbling buildings sprinkled about and connected by paths with interpretive signs in both Spanish and English. The good view from this part of the city sweeps east to the Casco Viejo peninsula, and beyond Panama Viejo's significance as a culturally unique attraction it is also a pleasant park and recreation area that provides visitors with a chance to get out and stretch their legs. Some people come here for a sunrise jog along Panama Viejo's path, which hugs the seafront.

In 1519, Pedrarias Dávila arrived with his Spanish expedition; he found a village, which was called Panamá by the cueva-speaking indigenous group that lived here. Historians agree that Panama means "abundance," but whether it is abundance of fish, butterflies, or some other plentiful flora or fauna is still open to debate. Not much is known about the cueva except that their language was spoken among different indigenous groups all the way to the Darién (near the present-day border with Colombia). In 1521, the Spanish king, Ferdinand of Aragon, bestowed Panama with formal city status in an effort to secure the mainland of the Americas, then called Tierra Firme. Within 40 years, the cueva were wiped out. To this day, not much is known about them, but recent archaeological digs have unearthed artifacts shedding light on this ancient culture.

It is not clear why the Spaniards chose to build atop this swampy area with no clean drinking water -- perhaps it was because the cueva represented an available labor force. The Spaniards first erected huts, followed by stone buildings around the end of the 16th century -- these are the ruins you see today. In 1671, the famous buccaneer Henry Morgan sacked the city, and it burned to the ground. Panama City was then moved to what is now known as Casco Viejo, on the western side of the city.

This is the best-funded archaeological site in all of Panama and, accordingly, you'll find here a superb Panama Viejo Visitors' Center & Museum (tel. 226-8915; Tues-Sun 9am-5pm; $6/£3 adults, $5/£2.50 seniors, and $3/£1.50 students; entrance fee includes admission to both the museum and the Cathedral Tower ruin site). The two-story museum offers a thorough historical account, but is the right size so as not to overwhelm visitors with too much information (exhibits are in English and Spanish). There are handsomely displayed pre-Columbian artifacts dating from 700 to 500 years before the Spanish arrival, a model of the city in its 17th-century heyday, interactive video displays of what archaeologists imagine the buildings' interiors to have looked like, and colonial furnishings, clothing, pottery, and more. The best way to see the ruin site is to begin at the center, visit the museum, then walk to the Cathedral Tower. The visitor center and museum are located about 6.5km (4 miles) east of downtown Panama City, on Vía Israel. To get here, take a taxi from downtown for $2 (£1). Another transportation option is the blue minibuses that leave on the hour from the Albrook bus terminal and that cost 25¢ (15p).

After 5 years of labor, the renovation of the site's most important relic, Torre de la Catedral (Cathedral Tower) is now complete, with a steel interior staircase that visitors can climb for the first time in 335 years; at the top are expansive city views. The tower is too fragile to bear the weight of a replica of the old bell that rang out across the city during colonial times, so a speaker, which chimes at 6:30am, 12:30pm, and 6:30pm, has been installed. Tip: Visit the tower in the afternoon, when the morning tour buses have gone. Otherwise, you might find yourself waiting up to 20 minutes to enter. Spanish-speaking guides offer free tours of the tower. If you skip the museum, the cost to get in the area around the tower is $4 (£2) for adults, $3 (£1.50) for seniors, and $2 (£1) for students; it's open Tuesday to Sunday, 8:30am to 6pm. The cathedral is a good 15-minute walk from the museum.

One of the city's best handicrafts markets is at Panama Viejo, and has recently been relocated to the visitor center (no phone; call the visitor center for information; daily 8am-5 or 6pm). Note: Even though the Cathedral Tower and museum are closed on Monday, you can still visit the ruins and walking paths.

Casco Viejo

Casco Viejo, the Old Quarter, is also referred to as Casco Antiguo or by its original and formal name, San Felipe. No trip to Panama City would be complete without a visit to this quintessentially charming neighborhood, with its narrow streets; its turn-of-the-19th-century Spanish-, Italian-, and French-influenced architecture; its bougainvillea-filled plazas; and its breezy promenade that juts out into the sea. Visitors often compare Casco Viejo to Havana or Cartagena. The neighborhood's historical importance and antique beauty spurred UNESCO, in 1997, to declare it a World Heritage Site. Because Casco Viejo provides such an ideal place to wander around and lose yourself in the antique splendor of the city streets, I've included a walking tour. Within the walking tour are dozens of points of interest, and you can really begin and end wherever it suits you.

For the past century, Casco Viejo was nothing more than a run-down neighborhood whose antique mansions were left to rot after wealthy residents moved to other parts of Panama City. With the drop in land value, squatters and low-income families moved in, many of whom continue to live here but are being pushed out by a public and privately funded large-scale gentrification project. This is most evident along the southeastern tip of the neighborhood, where lovingly restored mansions line the streets; elsewhere renovation isn't happening as fast as was hoped when the project began more than 10 years ago. To combat the housing shortage, the government is offering funds to help resettle poor residents. Foundations such as the Oficina Casco Antiguo are working on a plan, slated for completion in 2009, that will invest heavily in tourism, expanding services and even reinstalling the old street car that once ran along the city streets.

Safety Note: In spite of Casco Viejo's renovation projects and the fact that both the mayor and the president's offices are located here, tourists should say alert and protect themselves from theft. Generally speaking, the peninsula of Casco Viejo, starting at Calle 11 Este and heading east and away from the Santa Ana neighborhood, is safe. There are two principal entryways into Casco Viejo but both pass through poor ghettos, so always take a taxi to get here. Taxis for a trip out of Casco Viejo can usually be found around the Plaza de la Independencia, or if you are dining here, have the restaurant call one for you. Once, during a holiday, I could not find a cab for love nor money, and so I visited the Estación de Policía de Turismo (Tourism Police Station) and an officer shuttled me in a little scooter-car to a busier thoroughfare, where he waited with me until I got in a cab. Of course, I wouldn't do this unless you're in a pinch, but the tourism police are very polite and helpful, and they do a good job of patrolling the streets of Casco Viejo. The station is on Avenida Central at Calle 3a Este (tel. 211-2410); the office is open 24 hours, and from Monday to Friday, 8am to 5pm, there is an English-speaking attendant.

Most important in this area is to tone down the "gringo look" if possible, meaning no shorts or ostentatious clothing like Hawaiian shirts. Also, do not wear flashy jewelry or walk the streets brandishing your top-of-the-line camera.

Money Matters in Casco Viejo -- There is only one cash machine here in Casco Viejo, and it's located within the National Theater (enter through the door on Calle 3A, not through the theater's main entrance). There is a restroom here as well. If the door to the ATM is locked or closed (Sun), enter through the Ministro de Gobierno y Justicia on the back side of the theater on Avenida Central, and ask the security guard to let you use the cash machine.

Cerro Ancon

This conspicuous forested hill that rises 198m (650 ft.) above the city is another "reverted" property from the canal days that is now open to the public. The hill is bordered in the north by Heights and Culebra streets, and avenidas Arías and de los Mártires in the south. At the entrance to the office of the environmental organization ANCON, at Calle Quarry Heights, a winding, pedestrian-only road provides for a brisk uphill walk to a lookout point, with 360-degree views of the city center, Casco Viejo, and the canal. The hill is home to tiny Geoffrey's tamarins, ñeques (agoutis), and migratory birds. The Museo de Arte Contemporáneo is here.

Parque Natural Metropolitano

The Natural Metropolitan Park is the only protected tropical forest within the city limits of a major urban area in the Americas. In other words, one 5- to 10-minute taxi ride and you can delve into the earthy environs of thick jungle with a surprising array of fauna, more than 200 species of birds, and 40 species of mammals. Expect to see mostly birds and the occasional blue Morpho butterfly fluttering by. The park, roughly 265 hectares (655 acres), is located on the northern edge of Panama City, hemmed in by a few rather busy roads including the new and noisy Corredor Norte, which runs the eastern flank of the park. The park is overseen by the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute, which carries out scientific studies here, and by the city, which maintains an administration center with maps, educational exhibits, and a bookstore. If you're planning to visit any regional national parks such as Soberanía, skip this attraction; if your visit to the country is limited to Panama City, this park is a must-see.

Three short trails give visitors a chance to get out and stretch their legs. Los Momótides trail is the shortest (30 min.) and therefore the most appropriate trail for young children and visitors in a hurry. It begins at the administration center, but you must cross busy Avenida Juan Pablo II, so be careful. Mono Tití Road heads up to Cedro Hill and a lookout point with sweeping views of the city; alert hikers occasionally catch sight of Geoffrey's tamarins, a pint-size primate, along this trail. The most difficult trail, and the longest at 2 hours round-trip, is Cienequita Trail, which begins just up the road from the center. It is possible to connect with Mono Tití Road after reaching the lookout point. If you'd prefer something more adventurous, Ancon Expeditions recently launched their Metropolitan Nature Park and Smithsonian Rainforest Canopy Crane tour, perfect for nature lovers and bird-watchers alike, especially if you won't be venturing far from the city. The tour consists of a 50-minute ride on the Smithsonian's 42m-high (138-ft.) research crane plus 2 hours of nature observation at Parque Metropolitano Natural's hiking trails. The guided tour is limited to groups of 4, costs $99 (£50) per person, and includes transportation to and from any hotel in Panama City plus an English-speaking guide. For more information, email canopycrane@anconexpeditions.com.

The park is open daily from 6am to 6pm; the visitor center is open Monday to Friday 7am to 5:30pm and Saturday 8am to 1pm. Adult entrance is $2 (£1) per person. English tours are $5 (£2.50) per person with a reservation made at least 24 hours in advance (tel. 232-5516 or 232-5552; www.parquemetropolitano.org). There are also trail maps available for a small fee.

Calzada de Amador (Amador Causeway)

The Amador Causeway is a series of three small islands -- Naos, Perico, and Flamenco -- connected by a road and pedestrian walkway that projects out into the Panama Bay, offering spectacular views of the glittering city skyline and a consistent breeze. The islands, once the haunt of pirates, were connected in the early 1900s with rock and dirt excavated from the Culebra Cut in the Panama Canal to form a breakwater for a protective harbor for ships waiting to enter the canal, and to prevent the buildup of sediment. Later, the United States militarized the promontory and fortified it with ordnance for protection during the two world wars. The causeway remained off-limits to Panamanians until 1999, when the canal handover opened this prime spot of real estate, much to the delight of walkers, joggers, bike riders, and diners. There is nothing like jogging or walking along the causeway early in the morning with the sun rising over the Pacific and casting its pastel hues on the glittering high-rises of downtown Panama City. The causeway is packed on Sundays.

Large-scale, multimillion dollar real-estate projects are on the horizon for the causeway, including a grand hotel, a casino, condo development, and new marinas.

By any measure, Panamanians are most excited about the opening of the new Bridge of Life Biodiversity Museum, designed by renowned architect Frank Gehry (who is married to a Panamanian), which features high-concept exhibitions about the relationship between nature and man. Check the website, www.biomuseopanama.org, for more information. The museum wasn't quite ready at press time, but should be opening up to the public soon.

You'll hear a lot of talk about duty-free shopping in Panama, but it is exaggerated. Really, the only place you can duty-free shop is at the plethora of stores at the Tocumen Airport. Shopping complexes such as the Flamingo Center on the Amador Causeway limit duty-free purchases to cruisers landing at their port. Even the duty-free zone in Colón is overrated, as most wholesalers do not sell to independent travelers. The major shopping malls here offer excellent quality and national and international brands, though prices are comparable to those in the United States. A principal shopping avenue is Vía España, where both high- and low-end shops vie for business, as well as grocery stores and pharmacies. Designer stores are located around Calle 53 in Marbella and in the nearby World Trade Center's Centro de Comercio. Also try Plaza Paitilla in the Paitilla neighborhood. You'll find electronics shops around Vía Estronga, in the Financial District.

Modern Shopping Malls

Globalization and the rising demand for high-quality products have shifted the shopping scene to spacious megamalls that house international brands, cinemas, and a food court. Multiplaza Pacific (tel. 302-5380) offers the most in terms of selection and quality, yet it is the most expensive in town. Colombian-owned Multicentro (tel. 208-2500), conveniently located across from the Radisson on Avenida Balboa, has a number of Latin-diva-style boutiques; there's also a cinema and a casino. Albrook Mall (tel. 303-6333) is an air-conditioned shrine to low-cost outlet shopping, but you'll have to do a lot of digging around to find a gem. Because it is next to the bus terminal, it is busy with families who arrive from the interior of Panama, ready to shop. There is a cinema at Albrook Mall, too.

Wildlife Contraband: Don't Destroy What You've Come Seeking

International laws prohibit the trade of endangered plants or animals, or products made from endangered wildlife. Yet many travelers to Panama who purchase such goods rarely realize that what they are doing is illegal, nor do they understand the consequences of their purchase. Illegal trade destroys the very wildlife and habitat that travelers come here to enjoy. You could also set yourself up for being issued a heavy fine by law-enforcement officials upon your return. To help with wildlife conservation, ask yourself, Do I know what this product is made of? Do I know where this product came from? Do I need a special permit to bring this product home?

The World Wildlife Fund's trade monitoring network, TRAFFIC, and the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service have a series of "Buyer Beware" brochures, including one aimed at travelers in the Caribbean, that you can download from their site at www.worldwildlife.org/buyerbeware. When in Panama, you should avoid purchasing:

• Products made from turtle shell (including jewelry)
• Leather products made from reptile skins
• Live birds including parrots, macaws, and toucans
• Live monkeys
• Certain coral products
• Orchids (except those grown commercially)

Markets

The Mercado de Mariscos, located on Avenida Balboa and Calle 15 Este, is distribution headquarters for fresh seafood pulled from the Pacific and Caribbean. It's a vibrant market with lots of action as fishmongers shout while they deftly fillet corvina, tuna, octopus, and more. You can dine here at their upstairs restaurant. Several food stands sell seafood snacks like ceviche. Next door is the brand-new Mercado Público, the covered farmer's market of Panama City with exotic fruits and vegetables, meats, dried spices and nuts, and a food court of fondas, or cheap food stands serving Panamanian fare. Don't forget to bring your camera.

Artesanía, or indigenous handicrafts, are the number-one buy here in Panama (with the exception of real estate). Molas, the reversed appliqué panels made by Kuna Indian women, rank high on the list of popularity for souvenirs and gifts, either sewn onto a beach bag, as a shirt, or sold individually for you to frame or stitch onto anything you'd like (pillowcases are an ideally sized canvas). Other popular handicrafts, such as tagua nuts or vegetable ivory carved into tiny figurines, Ngobe-Buglé dresses, and Emberá Indian baskets and masks, can be found at the following markets. These markets do not have phones, and all are open daily with the general hours 8 or 9am to 5 or 6pm (until about 2pm Sun). The Mercado Nacional de Artesanías, in Panama Viejo next to the visitor center, is expansive and sells handicrafts from around the country. In Balboa, on Avenida Arnulfo Arias Madrid and Amador, is a small YMCA Handicrafts Market, with mostly Kuna and Emberá indigenous arts and crafts, and clothing. A little farther east and up Avenida Arnulfo Arias Madrid is the Kuna Cooperative, featuring Kuna handicrafts. This market is fun for kids because Kuna women offer to affix their traditional beaded bands onto the arms and legs of tourists, just as they themselves wear them.

For the more adventurous traveler seeking an "authentic" shopping experience, you can't beat Avenida Central, a pedestrian street and market that stretches from where Justo Arosemena meets Vía España to the Santa Ana Plaza, and that is near Casco Viejo. It's a scrappy, run-down neighborhood, with cheap stores, outdoor fruit and vegetable markets, and a bustling fusion of ethnic groups shopping for a bargain. Visually, it's the most colorful neighborhood in town. Apart from $1 (£50p)-and-under kind of shops, vendors lining the streets hawk clothing, accessories, plastic gizmos, and knickknacks. Shopkeepers like to blare music or announce their deals through megaphones to pull buyers in. It's a slice of everyday Panama, but it's also street theater and people-watching as fascinating as catching sight of Kuna Indian women lining up at McDonald's. Don't wander too far off Avenida Central, and keep an eye on your personal belongings. This area is patrolled by police and is generally safe during the day.

The brand-new Flamenco Shopping Plaza is on the Amador Causeway (tel. 314-0908; www.fuerteamador.com; hours are variable but generally noon-11pm). It caters predominantly to cruisers docking here, but shops are open to the general public (except the duty-free shop). The Plaza is a high-end, one-stop shopping area for souvenirs, jewelry, and upscale handicrafts. Come prepared: Visit their website and print out their discount coupons worth a savings of 10% to 15%, depending on the store.

Art Galleries

The following art galleries showcase Panamanian contemporary artists and other well-known Latin American artists. Check www.thepanamanews.com and its Calendar listing for upcoming shows and special events. Galería Bernheim, at Calle 50 and Calle Alquilino in the Financial District (tel. 223-0012), has a lengthy roster of paintings and other artwork for sale, as well as antique maps and delicately carved tagua nuts. Imagen Galería de Arte, located at Calle 50 and Calle 77 (tel. 226-2649), displays mostly paintings and sculpture by local artists, and offers professional framing. Galería y Enmarcado Habitante, at Calle 47 and Uruguay, has a small collection and is worth stopping at only if you're in the Bella Vista neighborhood; they also offer framing. As the name states, Arts & Antiques (tel. 264-8121) sells antiques and art antiques representing Spanish colonial, Art Deco, Victorian, and other epochs. The store is located in the Balboa Plaza on Avenida Balboa at Calle Anastacio Ruiz.

Handicrafts

The widest selection of handicrafts in Panama City can be found at one of several markets. Otherwise, an outstanding selection of molas can be found at Flory Saltzman Molas, located at Calle 49 B Oeste (tel. 223-6963; www.florymolas.com). Flory also sells bedspreads made of sewn-together molas, but the laborious work required for such an extensive, intricate piece of work means you'll pay top dollar. Another "designer" handicraft boutique is Breebaart, at Calle 50 and Calle 39 (tel. 264-5937), owned by one Hélène Breebaart, who came to Panama as a representative of Christian Dior 30 years ago and stayed on. Breebaart creates designer fashion and accessories that incorporate contemporary looks with Kuna art (she has a crew of Kuna seamstresses on-site), mostly for Panama's rich and prominent women. There are some things for sale here, but Breebaart's specialty is custom-made pieces that take about a week to make.

The Gran Morrison variety/department store chain, located at Vía España and Calle 51 Este (tel. 269-2211), and in Punta Paitilla (tel. 264-5266), has a selection of handicrafts. In Casco Viejo, two stores sell indigenous crafts and other Panama-themed souvenirs: Galería de Arte Indígena, at 844 Calle 1a (tel. 6634-7064; daily 9am-8pm), sells high-quality indigenous arts and crafts, and features folkloric dancing on Friday and Saturday nights from 6 to 8pm. Down the road from the Galería, on Calle 1era in Casco Viejo, is the shop La Ronda (tel. 211-1001; daily 9am-7pm), with an outstanding selection of high-quality arts and crafts, hats, and paintings. There are shops at the Mi Pueblito cultural center, but the selection is better elsewhere. Those looking for more upscale souvenirs and pre-Columbian reproductions should head to La Reprosa with locations on Ave. Samuel Lewis and Calle 54 (tel. 269-0457) and in Casco Antiguo, edificio Art Deco, Ave. A (tel. 228-4913). It's pricey, but quality is high.

Panama Hats: Not Very Panamanian, After All -- Despite the name, Panama hats did not originate in Panama but in Ecuador, and were traditionally made by the Ecuadorian indigenous group from the Manabí Province using fibers from the toquilla palm. The hat was first popularized by Ferdinand de Lesseps during the French canal effort, and later during the canal building by the U.S., when thousands were imported from Ecuador and given to workers for protection from the blistering tropical sun. Hence, the name "Panama hat" stuck. The hat became fashionable not only in the U.S. but also among the English haberdashery and European royalty. Really, you'd have the best luck ordering a high-quality hat over the Internet from a reputable importer, though Panama does its own version called the sombrero pintado, in the Penonomé region. You'll find a range of hats at the stands at Plaza Cinco de Mayo, as well as a limited selection at the YMCA Handicrafts Market in Balboa.

Jewelry

During the centuries before the arrival of the Spanish, indigenous groups produced decorative gold pieces called huacas, which they laid to rest with the dead to protect their souls in the afterlife. The word comes from the Incas, meaning something that is revered, such as an ancestor or a god. Spurred by the theft of huacas from the national anthropology museum, an American living in Panama during the 1970s set up Reprosa, which makes elaborate and stunning jewelry casts using the "lost wax" process of the ancient indigenous groups. If you're searching for a one-of-a-kind, luxury gift for someone special, come here. Reprosa has several more demure collections that include orchids, treasures from the sea, and so forth.

Reprosa also offers a popular factory tour to demonstrate the casting and assembly process. The factory can be found just off the Costa del Este exit near Panama Vieja, and just after turning left on the first street next to the Felipe Motta shop. English-language tours cost $10 (£5) per person and must be booked at least 1 day in advance; call Monica at tel. 271-0033.

Outdoor Gear & Clothing

It's best to buy your outdoor gear and equipment before your trip -- there isn't a wide selection of outdoor products in Panama. The chain store Outdoors (tel. 302-4828 or 208-2647) represents the brands Columbia and Caterpillar, and their stores carry clothing and footwear, sleeping bags, and accessories for biking, fishing, bird-watching, and other adventure sports. Outdoors has stores in the Multicentro, Multiplaza, and a low-cost outlet store in the Albrook Mall. Sportline at Albrook Mall also sells outdoor gear and equipment.

You don't have to experience 5 days of Carnaval to know that Panamanians are party-loving people. When the sun goes down, Panama City lights up with a vibrant scene that caters to all ages, interests, and levels of stamina. Nightspots are concentrated in four neighborhoods: Bella Vista (also called Calle Uruguay), the Amador Causeway, Marbella (Calle 53 Este), and Casco Viejo, but underground dance clubs pop up across town like mushrooms, and can be best found by asking your concierge or checking out the Weekend supplement in Thursday's La Prensa newspaper. La Prensa has a daily section called Vivir + which lists nightly events, but in Spanish only. Also try the Calendar at www.thepanamanews.com.

Visitors should be aware that Panamanians are more open-minded about sex than Americans. Prostitution is legal in Panama, and therefore it is common to see prostitutes not just on seedier streets and in brothels but in the nicer parts of town such as El Cangrejo. They're also often at hotel-lobby bars, or employed by one of the many "anything-goes" massage parlors across town. Government authorities demand a weekly health check for all prostitutes, among other regulations, but cases of AIDS and other sexually transmitted diseases are swiftly multiplying in Panama.

Theater, Ballet & Classical Music

Theater tickets can be purchased by calling the theater directly, or you can buy tickets at Blockbuster locations and at the bookstore El Hombre de la Mancha or Exedra Books. All theater productions are in Spanish, with the exception of the Ancón Theater Guild (tel. 212-0060; www.tga-panama.com; admission donation around $10/£5). The well-respected guild has been around for more than a half-century, first opening its doors in Colón to provide entertainment to U.S. troops during World War II. The guild normally produces contemporary dramas and comedy with a mix of native English speakers and Panamanian actors trained in English-language schools.

Classical music productions, plays, and ballet take place at Panama City's turn-of-the-20th-century National Theater, on Avenida B in Casco Viejo, but shows are infrequent. The best Spanish-language theater productions can be found at Teatro la Quadra, on Calle D in El Cangrejo (tel. 214-3695; www.teatroquadra.com; tickets average $10/£5). This cultural center was founded to promote and develop the art of theater in Panama, and they receive acclaim for their nightly performances of well-known plays and children's theater. Teatro ABA at Avenida Simon Bolívar (Transístmica), near Avenida de los Periodistas in front of the Riba Smith supermarket (tel. 260-6316; tickets cost an average of $5/£2.50), produces half its own shows and rents out its 200-person theater to independent groups; productions are mostly comedy, drama, and well-established plays. Check www.prensa.com for theater listings here. Teatro en Círculo, on Avenida 6C Norte at Vía Brasil (tel. 261-5375), is an esteemed playhouse with original Panamanian productions and classic international productions. The historic Teatro Anita Villalaz (tel. 211-4020; tickets average $10/£5), on Plaza Francia in Casco Viejo, is administered by the National Cultural Institute (INAC); the intimate theater is home to folkloric productions, concerts, and plays, some of which are produced by the University of Panama students.

The Club & Music Scene

The nightclubs listed below open at 10pm but don't really get going until midnight or later; during the first hours of operation, however, nightclubs typically offer drink specials. Ladies' night specials are a bargain for women, giving them free drinks and entry. Otherwise, expect to pay between $7 and $10 (£3.50-£5) for a cover charge, more if there is live music. Nightclub partiers tend to dress smartly for the occasion, so don your slinkiest or sharpest outfit or risk being refused entry (or just feeling out of place). For folkloric presentations in a less-trendy environment, try Las Tinajas or Al Tambor a la Alegría. Large stadium bands play at the Figali Convention Center, on the Amador Causeway (tel. 314-1414), or at the Atlapa Convention Center, on the east side of town (tel. 226-7000). For schedules, call or check La Prensa's weekend supplement.

Bars

Differentiating between a bar and a nightclub can be difficult these days in Panama City because so many bars have live DJ music, occasional live music, and maybe even a small dance floor and chill-out lounge. Popular hotel bars include the Decapolis , the Peach Monkeys Lounge at the Sheraton Panama, and the Veneto Hotel's lobby bar. Happy hours are the norm here. Office workers spill into bars after work for their 5 to 7pm happy hours; the best deals, however, are at bars that cater to late-night revelers: To reel people in before the late crowd, these bars offer happy hours from 10pm to midnight, and even free drinks (usually for women).

The Amador Causeway is an up-and-coming nightlife spot, with new bars and restaurants opening monthly. As a nightspot, the area tends to draw groups of friends, and an upscale, older crowd. The Wine Bar has the same offerings as their El Cangrejo location, but with a better view (located at the Brisas del Amador area). At the end of the Causeway, within the Flamenco Shopping Plaza, are a handful of bars, dance spots, and live-music venues such as Traffic Island, with Latin music and cocktails, and a windswept veranda with city views; or try Bar Baviera, the Ancla Sport Bar, or Karnak. These nightspots are all next to each other in an American-style minimall -- you could head here and stroll around until you find something to your liking. Closer to the city and the Figali Convention Center is Las Pencas, with live music on weekends and folkloric presentations every Wednesday at 8pm. Bennigan's Irish Grill at the end of the Amador Causeway is also a well-known nighttime hotspot with Panamanian's and foreigners alike.

The Gay & Lesbian Scene

Panama is a mostly Catholic country and although the gay and lesbian scene here is not underground, it is discreet. There are a couple of clubs in the city that operate without much fanfare, and attacks, raids, harassment, and so on are thankfully not very common. For a calendar of gay and lesbian events, check out www.farraurbana.com. There are few, if any, venues or events directed at the lesbian-only scene, yet lesbians are welcome at gay venues. Clubs are open at 10pm Wednesday through Sunday; weeknight cover charges are around $3 to $5 (£1.50-£2.50), $8 to $10 (£4-£5) on weekends. Early arrivals can take advantage of happy-hour drink specials.

The most established gay clubs are BLG, at Calle 49 and Calle Uruguay (tel. 265-1624), with dancing to top DJ music Thursday to Saturday, and other special events like Gay Pride Nights on weekdays; Lips (no phone) at Avenida Manuel Espinoza Batista, next to Café Duran, has nightly drag shows on weeknights and dancing on Fridays and Saturdays. The largest gay dance club is called Glam: The Club (tel. 265-1624), which features nightly drag shows, fashion shows, and more, followed by late-night dancing until dawn (the best nights are Fri and Sat). To get here, you need a taxi; the club is at Tumba Muerto (in the Urb. Industrial La Esperanza neighborhood) on Vía Ricardo J. Alfaro. Punta G, at Calle D in El Cangrejo (next to Ginza Teppanyaki; tel. 265-1624), has barmen in spandex, DJ music, and a dance floor.

Casinos

Gambling is legal in Panama, and virtually every major hotel in the city has an adjoining casino. You'll find slot machines, video poker, gaming tables, sports betting, and special shows and parties. The hottest casino at the moment is at the Veneto Hotel & Casino. The Veneto has a sophisticated gaming area and often hosts over-the-top parties such as E! Entertainment's Wild On. There is a sushi bar here, too. El Panama Hotel has one of the newer centrally located casinos, which offers cheap drink specials for women. The Sheraton Hotel and Convention Center hotel has a large, elegant casino, but its out-of-the-way location means it's really only visited by guests. The bar here, though, is popular with young Panamanians.