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Most DMZ/Panmunjeom tours include lunch, but if you decide to go there on your own, you should stop in at the Heyri Art Valley, 652 Bupheung-li (in Tongil Dongsan), Tanhyun-myeon, Paju-si, Gyeonggi-do (tel. 031/946-8551; www.heyri.net). Not only is it a great place to see artists of all genres in their living/work spaces, but there are new restaurants and cafes opening up nearly every week. From Seoul, take subway line 3 to Daehwa Station. Take exit 5 and walk to the bus station behind the exit. Take bus no. 200, which comes once an hour. The 50-minute ride costs W1,400. It's a 20-minute walk from the Unification Hill parking lot (or 8 min. by bus no. 200).

Also, the specialty dish of the region is freshwater eel, which is marinated in a sweet and spicy sauce and eaten cooked from your tabletop grill. You can order jang-uh (eel) from many restaurants in the area, but a couple of good places in Paju are Imjin-gang Pokpo Eojang (Imjin River Waterfall Fish), 254-4 Deokcheon-li, Papyeong-myeon, Paju-si (tel. 031/959-2222), and Jinmi Sikdang, 370-119 Jangpa1-li, Papyeong-myeon, Paju-si (tel. 031/958-3321).

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.