Things To Do in Pantelleria

Elegant specialty-foods shop La Nicchia, in Pantelleria town at Via Borgo Italia 31 (tel. 0923/912968), sells capers, caper pâtés, caper sauces, caper pesto, dried herbs, citrus jams, and a wide range of wines and spirits, all of which make great souvenirs. (La Nicchia products are also sold at some Dean & Deluca and Williams-Sonoma stores in the U.S., but they're much less expensive here at the source and relatively easy to pack.) If you fall in love with passito while here, go to Salvatore Murana  (Contrada Khamma 276, tel. 0923/915231), the most serious wine shop on Pantelleria. The dammuso-owning set get their cool outdoor pillows and light fixtures at Cose di Casa (Contrada Rekhale; tel. 0923/916651).

For an island that gets such chic visitors, there isn't all that much in the way of nightlife. Later in the evening, the posh crowds are having fabulous private parties at their swank dammusi, but earlier on, almost everyone makes their way down to one of the bars of Pantelleria town for a drink at sunset. The marina-facing Caffè Aurora-Policardo (Via Borgo Italia 36; tel. 0923/911098; daily 5:30am-2am) is renowned for its granite (and for being Armani's favorite place for aperitivo). Also facing the water, El Tikirriki (Via Borgo Italia 2/3; no phone) is another beloved spot for prosecco and happy-hour snacks. Just off the main piazza, Cicci's Bar (Via Cagliari 7; tel. 339/5885821) is where local panteschi go for drinks and snacks, but there's no view of the sunset from here.

Out on the island, Alta Marea in Scauri (Calata del Porto; tel. 0923/916151) is the closest thing on Pantelleria to an "it" scene. It's open from 7pm to 7am and serves as an aperitivo bar, restaurant, and discoteca. For something a little fancier, the bar at Zubebi Resort (near the Specchio di Venere lake, Contrada Zubebi; tel. 0923/913653) draws a chic crowd most evenings in summer.