Things To Do in Pau
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Pau Attractions
The city center is 30m (98 ft.) up from the river and the railway station, and if you arrive by train, you’ll have the pleasure of ascending in its historic Funicular from near the station to place Royale. Restored in 2010 and more than a century old, it runs Monday to Saturday from 6:45am to 9:40pm and on Sundays from 1:30 to 8:50pm; admission is free. Place Royale is in the center of the 2km-long (1.25-mile) boulevard des Pyrénées, a popular promenade since the 19th century for its views over palm-landscaped slopes to the distant mountains. At the eastern end is Parc Beaumont, where the Palais Beaumont (www.pau-congres.com; tel. 05-59-11-20-00), built as a casino and winter garden, now hosts concerts, theater performances, and exhibitions; and at the western end is the Château de Pau, 2 rue du Château (www.musee-chateau-pau.fr; tel. 05-59-82-38-00), dating from the 12th century and steeped in the Renaissance spirit of the bold Marguerite de Navarre, who wrote the bawdy novel Heptaméron at age 60. Inside are many relics from the age, including a crib made of a single tortoiseshell for Henri de Navarre, who was born here, and a splendid array of Flemish and Gobelin tapestries. The great rectangular tower, Tour de Gaston Phoebus, is from the 14th century. The château is open daily for visits from 9:30am to 11:45am and 2pm to 4.45pm. The gardens are also open for walking from 8am most days until nightfall. Guided tours (conducted only in French) depart at 15-min. intervals during open hours. Admission is 7€ for adults, 5.50€ for students 18 to 25, and free for ages 17 and under.
The Musée des Beaux-Arts, 1 rue Mathieu-Lalanne (tel. 05-59-27-33-02), displays a collection of European paintings, including Spanish, Flemish, Dutch, English, and French masters such as El Greco, Zurbarán, Degas, and Boudin. It’s open Tuesday to Sunday 11am to 6pm. Admission is free.
Pau is also famous for its Haras Nationaux (National Stud), created by Napoléon, which is no longer open to the public but does hold some wonderful racing and jumping events throughout the year that are worth attending if you are in the area. It’s situated south of the Gave de Pau at 1 rue du Maréchal Leclerc (www.haras-nationaux.fr; tel. 05-59-06-98-37).
A little further out of town, heading towards the foothills of the Pyrénées, the Zoo d’Asson is an excellent place for children, with over 500 species of animals, kept in large, open spaces and carefully-maintained enclosures. Of particular interest are the white tigers and the kangaroo sanctuary, one of the biggest in Europe. In total, the zoo covers 5 hectares (12 acres); the entrance is at 6 Chemin du Brouquet, Asson (www.zoo-asson.org; tel. 05-59-71-03-34). It’s open daily April to September 10am to 7pm, and the rest of year from 10am to 6pm.Admission is 16€ adults, 10€ children ages 3 to 11, and free for children ages 2 and under.
Pau Shopping
Pau’s shopping doesn’t quite live up to its surrounding scenery and cultural attractions, but it does offer regional specialties such as chocolates, sweet jams, and Basque antiques. The pedestrian rue Serviez and rue des Cordeliers harbor an array of boutiques and shops that carry these items, as do rue Louis-Barthou and rue du Maréchal-Foch, which are all around the central place Georges Clemenceau.
Pau has some of the region’s best antiques shops, such as Delan Antiquaire, 4 rue Gassion (www.delanpatrick.com; tel. 05-59-27-45-62).
One of the best-known shops in Pau is La Féerie Gourmande, 46-48 rue du Maréchal Joffre (tel. 05-59-27-69-51). The owner, M. Francis Miot, has been voted best jam and candy maker in France several times. If you’re interested in seeing where his confections are made, head for the suburbs of Pau, about 1.5km (1 mile) southeast of the center, to the residential hamlet of Uzos. Here you’ll find Féerie Gourmande Musée et Boutique (www.francis-miot.com; tel. 05-59-35-05-56), where exhibits display the history of jams from medieval times to the present, as well as offering numerous workshops and tastings detailing his techniques. It’s open Monday to Saturday 10am to noon and 2 to 4pm; admission is 4.60€ adults and 3€ ages 3 to 12; closed in December. It has a special price of 3€ adults, 2€ ages 3 to 12 during July and August.
Pau Nightlife
Nightlife in Pau has always centered on Le Triangle, an area in the town center that’s flanked by the rue Emile Garet, rue Lespy, and rue Castetnau. In recent years, a few new bars along boulevard des Pyrénées near place Clemenceau have augmented Pau’s nightlife.
Within the borders of Le Triangle, Le Garage Bar, at 47 rue Emile Garet (www.legaragebar.com; tel. 05-59-83-75-17), has been going strong since 1993. Set within an old auto repair shop, it retains many of its original industrial-looking fixtures, plus a collection of antique traffic lights, road signs, and mopeds hanging from chains in the ceiling. It’s open Monday to Friday 11¬am to 2am, Saturday 3pm to 2am and Sunday 3pm to 1am.
Near Parc Beaumont is L’Adresse, 20 rue des Orphelines (tel. 06-82-33-73-99), offers tapas, cocktails, and music that goes late. Student night is every Thursday. It’s open Tuesday to Friday 6pm to 2am and Saturday 6pm to 12am.
