Things To Do in Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh is fairly compact and most sights are not far from the central riverfront area. You can walk, but be prepared for a fairly nerve-racking time dealing with the traffic. Alternatively, you can hire a tuk-tuk or motodup for the day. The Russian market is in the south of town away from the center. Tuol Sleng and the Killing Fields can be visited together, and arrangements can be made at any hotel lobby.

The Khmer Rouge on Trial

As this information is being researched and written, the director of S21, Duch (pronounced Doik), is on trial in a distant suburb of Phnom Penh under the auspices of a UN tribunal. He was discovered purely by chance in 1999 by British photojournalist Nic Dunlop in the wild and western province of Samlot. Duch was working incognito for a Christian NGO and claimed to be "born again." He confessed to his role in the horrors of S21 and has been detained ever since. Duch is the first and the most junior of the accused to go before the court. They include Khieu Samphan, the public face of the Khmer Rouge; Nuon Chea, Pol Pot's brutal henchman and second in command; and Ieng Sary, the slippery foreign minister of the regime, who are also lined up for the dock. So is Ieng Sary's wife, Ieng Thirith, who was minister of social affairs and a key figure in the Khmer Rouge from the early days. This is nearly 4 decades after the perpetration of their murderous activities, and they are very old at this point.

Why has it taken so long and why is it happening now, and why is it just these few up for trial? The Khmer Rouge fought on until 1998. Through the '80s they were supported and funded by a coalition of Western powers, China, and Thailand. If the international community and the UN recognize the horror of what the KR did, legitimate questions of why they were endorsed by the very same powers need to be asked and those questions are awkward. Second, the present regime in Cambodia does not have clean hands. It is true that present prime minister Hun Sen was a Khmer Rouge officer in the '70s, but that is a red herring. He was part of the dissident Eastern Zone and basically a simple soldier. What is true however is that in the '90s when the KR started to surrender, faction by faction, many deals were made, including those concerning business over lucrative natural resources. There are many secrets surrounding the surviving members and few are innocent. To put them on trial could also put their benefactors on trial by proxy. What of the Khmers? Feelings are mixed. Some just see it as pointless and want to move on. Others see no justice since former Khmer Rouge live in their towns and villages and in some cases still terrify them. Others see a little justice as better than no justice at all. As ever in Cambodia, the water remains very muddy indeed.

The best shopping in town, for everything from souvenirs and trinkets to the obligatory kitchen sink, is at any of the large local markets. The Central Market shouldn't be missed, but the Russian Market between streets 440 and 450 in the far south of town is where the real deal on souvenirs can be had (go by moto or tuk-tuk). It takes hard haggling to get the good deals on items like opium paraphernalia, carvings, and ceramics. It's all authentic looking, even if made in China. Given Cambodia's large garment industry for export, it is no surprise that some goods "fall off the back of the truck" in transit and end up here. It's a good place to buy brand names at a fraction of their normal retail price.

Shops and galleries are growing in ever-increasing numbers in the developing capital. All along Street 178, interesting little outlets are springing up and include a few affordable silk dealers like Sayon Silkworks, just west of the National Museum on Street 178. Asasax Art Gallery, No. 192 St. 178 (tel. 012/217-795; www.asasaxart.com.kh), features unique local works. Silk & Pepper at No. 33Eo St. 178 (tel. 023/222-692) has some great silk accessories and kimonos. Take a stroll along Street 240, which is home to a fantastic cafe culture and a few antiques shops and boutiques like Bliss, No. 29 St. 240 (tel. 023/215-754), which sells some unique beaded and embroidered cushions and quilts; or Le Lezard Bleu (No. 61 St. 240; tel. 023/986-978 or 012/406-294), which features traditional and contemporary artwork and top-notch framing.

Bazar, at 28 Sihanouk Blvd., near the Independence Monument (tel. 012/776-492), has a small but refined collection of Asian antiques and furniture.

For upscale, original clothing look no further than Ambre at No. 37 St. 178 (tel. 023/217-935; closed Sun). This two-story store carries the whimsical, beautifully cut designs of Cambodian-born, France-raised Romyda Keth. Keth has a love affair with jersey and often layers clothing with funky embroidery or gorgeous swaths of organza.

For CDs, MP3 recordings, DVDs, and cool T-shirts and hip-hop fashions, stop by the Boom Boom Room, on Street 93 in the backpacker area near Boeung Kak Lake or at their new location just across from the Golden Gate Hotel at No. 1C St. 278 (tel. 012/709-096).

For essentials and Western groceries, stop by the Lucky Market, No. 160 Sihanouk Blvd. (tel. 023/215-229), the most popular shopping center for Phnom Penh's many expats. The main branch of "the Lucky" is just west of the Victory Monument traffic circle, and there's also a branch on the ground floor of the Sorya Shopping Center. For fresh, organic produce and fine canned goods, Veggy's is at No. 23 St. 240 (tel. 023/211-534) and carries a similar line of familiar comfort foods from back home, whether home is Arkansas, Tokyo, Paris, or Seoul.

Monument Books, No. 111 Norodom Blvd. (tel. 023/217-617), has a great selection of new books; it's a good spot to find books on the Khmer language and culture. Upstairs you'll find Monument Toys for the kiddies. There are also stores at No. 53 St. 426 (tel. 023/217-617) and in the airport at the international departure level. For secondhand books and exchange, D's Books (No. 12 178 St. and No. 79 240 St.; tel. 023/221-280) has a good selection. Also check out the Sorya Shopping Center (tel. 023/210-018) just south of central market, which has seven stories of brand-name international goods as well as discount copies.

Munitions into Art

As armed conflict drew to a close at the end of the last century, Cambodia remained awash with weapons of war. Even the motodups were often armed back then. Programs to disarm the populace were quickly put into place. AK47s, mortars, and rocket launchers soon started to pile up. In 2003, Sasha Constable, a quietly spoken British artist, trained in London, teamed up with an organization with the unwieldy title of the "European Union's Assistance on Curbing Small Arms and Light Weapons program," or EUASAC.

The cooperation provided the opportunity to channel a vision. Young Khmer artists (from the Royal University of Fine Arts) were aching to express their feelings about the end of war and their hopes for the newfound peace. Under the auspices of EUASAC, Sasha cofounded the Peace Art Project Cambodia, and with expert help from within Cambodia and from around the globe, her students took all these rusting metal piles of misery and transformed them into sculptures reflecting their anger at conflict and their desire for peace. There are giant dragonflies fashioned from machine-gun barrels, huge angry metal figures breaking apart an AK47, the ubiquitous and potent symbol of casual murder across Cambodia. Sculptures include delicately poised ballet dancers, birds of prey with wings soaring, and other more prosaic and typically Cambodian rural themes: A woman carrying water, two buckets slung across her shoulders with a bamboo pole, echoes the etiolated figures of Giacometti. A water buffalo bows its head and a small, sparky guard dog sniffs the air.

In many venues around Phnom Penh you might spot the work of PAPC. Sometimes it is a bar stool, sometimes an ornament. There's a sign and clock made from AK47s at Cantina, and a huge "Bird of Peace" sculpture, commissioned by the Australian Embassy, at Sanderson Park near Wat Phnom. There are also large municipal sculptures across Cambodia, particularly in Battambang and Kompong Thom. Although the PAPC program is over, the idea lives on. A group of Cambodian artists is turning land mines into art under the auspices of the Cambodian Mine Action Art Project. With support from UNDP, the artists spend time in the countryside with both local people and working de-miners, and then create paintings and collages to express how Cambodians are positively addressing the challenge of land mine and explosive remnants of war and the effects. The work is shown both within Cambodia and is being shown abroad as well in celebration of the 10th anniversary of Cambodia's ratification of the Anti-Personnel Mine Ban Treaty.

Phnom Penh has a reputation for booming nightlife. Booming it is, but a large part of that is actually pretty seedy. As in Thailand, in some parts of town you may see Khmer girls from the countryside, waiting for large white men with fat wallets. There are, however, a number of classier options. Most restaurants are also bars and those along the riverfront will be open as late as midnight. Cantina is convivial and very popular. Talkin' to a Stranger is a bastion of social relaxation, and Kandal House is also cozy and friendly. The nicest Phnom Penh nightlife is largely found in its restaurant scene.

There are a number of large discos you can visit if you feel a boogie impetus coming on. They are not your best bet, however, since they are expensive and not very pleasant. Better to head to one of the bars with a dance floor. Avoid the Heart of Darkness because it is dangerous (see below). Upstairs at the Riverhouse is the best since it is relaxed, not overly peopled with commercial sex workers, and has great music.

Heart of Darkness -- The story of this once wonderful place is one of sad decline, mingled with greed and violence. In the '90s, the Heart of Darkness (at 213 Sisowath Quay) was often described by visiting travel writers (including this one) as the best bar in the world. It was a hole-in-the-wall haven from a city that was then a dark and often risky place at nighttime. The music was brilliant, and the mixture of journalists, NGO workers, diplomats, and mercenaries made for interesting conversation. It was a dark and funky dive with real atmosphere.

Then it started to change. It got bigger. Then it got even bigger again. Then they put in a dance floor and the place filled up with prostitutes. By 2001, the old Heart had ceased to exist and a monster was born. It became a place where fights and violence became the norm as privileged sons of the ruling elite arrived with their armed minders. Gunfire became frequent, and someone got murdered. The bar got security, but the security searched everyone except these scions of the elite, since moonlighting soldiers are loath to offend their commanding officers.

Today, the reputation of the old Heart feeds this beast and on weekends it is packed. You can take your chances, but be aware that it is dangerous and many embassies put out a warning and forbid their staff to visit.

River Cruises

In the evening, you will see a number of boats lit up like Christmas trees chugging slowly up and down the Tonle Sap. Cruises taking in great views of the Royal Palace, National Museum, and floating villages along the banks are becoming ever more popular as is dinner afloat. You can find these boats of many different sizes and quality along the waterfront between Street 178 and Street 130. They are also at the ferry terminal opposite Street 104. They have small signs up and may also hail you as you walk by. Costs start at about $10 an hour. Kanika (tel. 012/848-802) runs a unique catamaran for parties and dinner cruises. Proceeds go to Seametrey NGO projects. Experience Mekong Boat (tel. 012/432-456; www.cambodiabyboat.com) offers tours of various sorts, including a look at how the boats are built and general life on the river.

Dance

The Bopha Penh Titanic Restaurant (Sisowath Quay near the boat pier opposite St. 104; tel. 092/646-361; www.bopha-phnompenh.com) stages nightly performances from 7 to 9pm.

The excellent Sovanna Phum Art Association (No. 111 St. 360; tel. 023/221-932; www.shadow-puppets.org) runs shows of classical performance every Friday and Saturday at 7:30pm. Dance alternates with other disciplines such as shadow puppetry and theater.

The Veiyo Tonle Restaurant (237 Sisowath Quay; tel. 012/847-419) hosts traditional dance performances by kids from the New Cambodia Children's Life Association. They take place at 8pm.

Art & Film

The art exhibition center and media lounge Meta House (No. 6 St. 264; tel. 023/224-140; www.meta-house.com) hosts art shows celebrating contemporary art in Cambodia, and also plays host to foreign films and lectures. Check out their website to see what's available.