The produce market in the piazza just outside the door provides some nice ambience (as does a column surviving from the medieval church that once stood here) along with plenty of ingredients for old-fashioned Pisan classics, such as brachette alla renaiaola, large pasta squares in a purée of turnip greens and smoked fish, and trenette con rape e aringa, narrow flat pasta with rape greens and herring. For the full Pisan experience move on to baccalà alla livornese, salt cod stewed with tomatoes and a side of ceci (garbanzo) beans. Prices and service are refreshing throwbacks to gentler times.