Self-taught chef Pepe Solla is an original, and his embrace of the classic flavors of Galician cuisine is matched only by his determination to make it all new. The old country house where Solla has just nine tables has been a restaurant for many years, but the chef gave it a complete makeover in contemporary Spanish style. Having won one Michelin star already, Solla is a likely contender for another with dishes like a cream of oysters, hake roe, sturgeon caviar, and bluebell flowers. He matches the meatiness of sea bass with braised turnip greens, Galician cabbage (similar to kale), and an orange-lemon sauce. Solla is a prime regional exemplar of the cocina de autur. He has caught the “locavore” fever, so almost everything on his menus comes from within a 1-hour radius, and all the fish is caught inshore in sustainable fisheries.