It’s always been puzzling to me that an upscale destination street like NW 23rd has so few fine-dining restaurants. With the 2014 opening of St. Jack, the situation definitely improved. When this tres bonne French bistro and bar moved from its southeast location to northwest, it dropped its lunch menu and became dinner only. Fortunately, the wonderful French cooking survived the journey across the river. Many of the dishes here are classics, with tastes that are delightfully worth rediscovering. I’m talking about cream of tomato soup baked in puff pastry; seared foie gras on brioche; salad Lyonnaise frisée with bacon lardons, poached egg, and bacon-fat croutons; and a cheese plate with an assortment of fabulous French fromage. The plats principaux are classics, too, and include mussels meunière, roasted trout, oxtail bourguignon, Lyonnaise onion tart, and that delicious old favorite, duck a l’orange. Enjoy a glass of French wine with your French meal and perhaps finish with Proustian, baked-to-order madeleines. For less expensive sampling, come for happy hour (daily 4–6pm, 10pm–close).