Chef Rui Paula is a star of new Portuguese cooking and this is a classy fine-dining option in the city center. The restaurant is in the stately Palácio das Artes building that once held the Porto branch of the national bank. Four big French windows open onto the pretty Largo São Domingos square. Inside, the cream and soft browns of the decor have a Nordic simplicity. Paula says he's searching for "food with history" based on traditional mainstays of Portuguese cuisine. Dishes like sea bass and lobster in creamy rice, or preserved partridge with chestnuts, even his unique version of tripas à moda do Porto, are presented like art works and sided with a superb wine selection. There are two tasting menus, one closely rooted in north Portuguese traditions, the other inspired by the sea.