Poznan Attractions

Naturally, any exploration must start at the Old Market Square (Stary Rynek), a lively spot filled with color, people, and a range of performance art from early morning to late at night. Poznan's unofficial nickname could well be the "Museum City," for you trip on museums everywhere. Some notable ones are the Model of Former Poznan (Ludgardy; tel. 61/855-14-35; www.makieta.poznan.pl), which has a meticulous miniature model of medieval Poznan and gives an audio narration of the city's history, and the Musical Instruments Museum (Stary Rynek 45; tel. 61/852-08-57). Note: Most museums have free admission on Saturdays.

Kórnik and Rogalin, both 20km (12 miles) south of Poznan and 12km (7 1/2 miles) apart from each other, visited together make for a good day out. The 14th-century neo-Gothic Kórnik Castle (Zamkowa 5, Kórnik; tel. 61/817-00-81; www.bkpan.poznan.pl) survived World War II and has many intriguing curios assembled by its former masters. The Rogalin Palace (Arciszewszkiego 2, Rogalin; tel. 61/813-80-30), an impressive late-baroque to early-classicism palace, was the seat of the Raczynski clan, a politically influential noble family. It was recently given a thorough spruce-up. Within the palace are works by the noted Polish painter Jan Matejko. The on-site restaurant, Dwa Pokoje z Kuchnia (tel. 61/898-17-47), is a homey spot that serves sweet and savory pancakes (crêpes). At the nearby park are the Oaks of Rogalin, three great oak trees that are more than a thousand years old (and look very much like they're on their last legs). They are named Lech, Czech, and Rus, after the legendary brothers and founding fathers of Poland, the Czech Republic, and Russia. Public buses from Poznan serve both Kórnik and Rogalin.

Huff and Puff -- Michael Palin did it. In his 2006-07 jaunt through New Europe, the travel show host (and Monty Python comedian) veered west to Poznan to hop on the steam-engine train that chugs regularly from Poznan to Wolsztyn. The Wolsztyn Experience (www.thewolsztynexperience.org) allows train enthusiasts to learn to drive a steam-engine train on a regular service line with commuters on board (about 600 z).

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Poznan Shopping

Souvenirs of Poznan available from stalls in the Old Market Square include crafts depicting the pair of hotheaded goats and the bamberka.

Poznan Nightlife

Performing Arts

The Zamek Cultural Center (Sw. Marcin 80/82; tel. 61/646-52-60; www.zamek.poznan.pl) is the first stop for information on happenings in Poznan. The ticket office is open from Tuesday to Sunday 11am to 7pm. Event tickets can also be bought at the City Information Center/CIM (Ratajczaka 44; tel. 61/851-96-45; www.cim.poznan.pl). Teatr Wielki (Fredry 9; tel. 61/659-02-80; www.opera.poznan.pl) is the place for operas. The Polski Teatr Tanca (Kozia 4; tel. 61/852-42-41; www.ptt-poznan.pl) hosts Polish and international troupes at various venues around town, including Teatr Wielki. Tickets can be purchased at their website, the CIM, or Teatr Wielki. The Poznan Philharmonic (Filharmonia Poznanska; Sw. Marcin 81; tel. 61/852-47-08; www.filharmoniapoznanska.pl) hosts Polish and international musicians. The box office is open daily 1 to 5pm.

Pubs & Clubs

The Old Town isn't one to go to bed early; most of the drinking and dancing establishments can be found here. One in four patrons is a student, which means beer is good business in this town. On the side streets of the Old Town Square, the drinks get cheaper, so poke around Wozna Street for value deals. Warta (Swietosawska 12; tel. 61/851-51-17), a cavernous bar, is where the eponymous beer company filmed its commercial. The basement fills with hundreds of revelers when they hold concerts. The dress-to-impress types converge at the SQ Klub Muzyczny (Pówiejska 42; tel. 61/859-65-78; www.sqklub.pl) for the drum and bass tunes, international DJs, and live gigs. More dancing room is found at Cute (Wielka 27/29; tel. 61/851-91-37; www.cuteklub.pl), one of the city's best-known venues for house, techno, trance, and just plain dance music. Blue Note Jazz Club (Kosciuszki 76/78; tel. 61/657-07-77; www.bluenote.poznan.pl) is a reputable venue with top-notch live jazz by leading Polish and international musicians. However, it also plays teenybopper tunes. To hang out with local fans of "intelligent techno," Café Miesna (Garbary 62, entrance from Mostowa; tel. 663/374-654; www.myspace.com/cafemiesna) is the place to be.