If the baroque extravagance of this part of Sicily sweeps you away, you’ll find the culinary complement at this famed spot, the creation of Chef Ciccio Sultano. The fussy parlorlike dining rooms, all dark polished wood and red velvet, suggest an extravagant experience, and nothing that emerges from the kitchen dispels the notion. Regional ingredients and age-old Sicilian traditions form the foundation for dishes that combine homemade pastas, local seafood, and fresh garden produce in remarkably innovative ways, such as a cannolo of creme fraiche, raw shrimp, and caviar, or in relatively down-to-earth preparations, like fresh pasta with bottarga (fish roe). Leave financial concerns at the door: The best way to indulge in the extravagance is with one of the tasting menus. Reserve well in advance.