Things To Do in Recife and Olinda

The allure of both Olinda and Recife lies not so much in particular sights as in the urban fabric. In Olinda, while no particular church merits a special trip, the ensemble of 300- and 400-year-old architecture makes for a memorable stroll. If your time is limited, head first for Olinda, making sure to go up to the Igreja da Sé for the best views.

Downtown Recife has a number of interesting monuments and buildings to see; the Zero Marker makes a fine starting point. From there it's a nice stroll through restored Old Recife (make sure to walk down Rua do Bom Jesus and take a peek from the Malakoff Tower). Then cross the bridge to Santo Antônio; the commercial heart of Recife is as packed with vendors and food stands as any Asian market. Staying in Boa Viagem makes it easy to fit in a morning swim and stroll on the beach. If you need more sand time than that, remember that small, laid-back Porto de Galinhas boasts one of the finest beaches in the Northeast.

The Passion Play at Nova Jerusalem -- If you're in the Recife area in the 10 days leading up to Easter, don't miss the passion play in Nova Jerusalem, Fazenda Nova. More than 500 actors and extras assemble on nine different stages to act out the last days in the life of Christ. The specially built theater is massive -- the size of 12 football fields, with tall towers and thick walls resembling old Jerusalem. The play's been going since 1968, but in recent years it's become much more popular; well-known actors and actresses now take the coveted roles of Jesus, Mary, Pontius Pilate, and Judas. What makes it worth the trip to Fazenda Nova, 190km (118 miles) from Recife, is the street fair and festival that accompanies the play. Performances start on the Saturday of the week before Easter. Good Friday and Hallelujah Saturday (the day before Easter) are the most popular nights. Up to 8,000 people make the trip out to Nova Jerusalem each night. Tickets cost R$30 to R$40. Performances start at 6pm and finish at 9pm. For up-to-date info on actors and starts, see the play website: www.novajerusalem.com.br. For day tours, contact Luck Viagens (tel. 081/3302-6222; www.luckviagens.com.br; R$75 for tour and ticket), or Caravana Turismo (tel. 081/3221-1623; R$65 for day trip plus ticket).

Where to Find the Most Spectacular Views -- No one should miss the view from the front steps of the Igreja da Sé in Olinda. Look out over the red-tile roofs and church towers of the old Portuguese city, the white sand, and bright blue of beach and sea. In Old Recife it's worth taking the elevator to the top of the restored Malakoff Tower, an old astronomical observatory on Praça Artur Oscar. It's only four stories high, but the view of the low-rise old city is still good. Open Tuesday through Sunday from 3 to 8pm; free admission.

In Recife's downtown neighborhood of Santo Antônio, the streets around the Pátio São Pedro and in between Avenida N.S. do Carmo and Rua Primeiro de Março are all jampacked with little shops. Some of the alleys are so narrow that they resemble Asian street markets. The best time to explore is weekdays during office hours; in the evening this part of town is deserted. Larger, more fashionable stores are located just on the other side of the Duarte Coelho Bridge on Avenida Conde da Boa Vista. There are large modern malls located out in Boa Viagem as well as the new Paço Alfandega, the restored 18th-century Customs hall in Old Recife.

Olinda's historic downtown also offers prime shopping: Two markets sell excellent souvenirs, and you will find many more galleries and interesting shops once you start to explore the winding streets.

Gifts & Souvenirs -- In Olinda there are two excellent markets for local handicrafts. Mercado Eufrasio Barbosa (also called Mercado Varadouro) is located in the former Customs house at Sigismundo Gonçalves s/n (tel. 081/3439-1415). Open Monday through Saturday from 9am to 6pm, this market has great souvenirs at reasonable prices. Up the hill close to the Praça João Alfredo is the Mercado Ribeira, Bernardo Vieira de Melo s/n (tel. 081/3439-2964), which is open daily from 9am to 6pm. The merchants there specialize in religious arts, paintings, woodcarvings, and regional crafts.

Olinda is jampacked with studios and ateliers that are open to the public. If you like colorful artwork, visit Imaginário, on the Rua Bispo Coutinho 814 tel. 081/3439-4514). This large store displays a comprehensive collection of high-quality local artwork. More expensive but worth checking out is the Estação Quatro Cantos, Rua Bernardo Vieira de Melo 134 (tel. 081/3429-7575).

In Recife, a great shop with above-average souvenirs is Paranambuco, Rua do Bom Jesus 215 (tel. 081/3424-1689). The best spot for picking up local crafts is in the Casa da Cultura, Rua Floriano Peixoto s/n, next to the train station (tel. 081/3224-2850). Those who are staying in Boa Viagem can visit the large crafts market on the Praça Boa Viagem; Monday through Friday 3 to 11pm and 8am to 11pm on weekends.

Malls & Shopping Centers -- Shopping Center Recife, Rua Padre Carapuceiro 777, Boa Viagem (tel. 081/3464-6123), is a modern mall; all buses heading downtown stop here. Farther along the beach where Boa Viagem becomes Piedade there's another pleasant mall, Shopping Center Guararapes, Av. Barreto Menezes 800, Piedade (tel. 081/3464-2211; www.shopping-guararapes.com.br). The most beautiful mall is the Shopping Paço Alfandega, Cais da Alfandega 35, Recife Antigo (tel. 081/3419-7500; www.pacoalfandega.com.br). Housed in the restored 18th-century Customs building, this is one of the city's prime shopping destinations. The bookstore Livraria da Cultura has an above-average selection of English-language books. Malls are open Monday through Friday from 10am to 10pm and Saturday from 10am to 8pm.

Markets -- A bustling fruit-and-vegetable market in a lovely old iron-and-glass building, the Mercado de São José, Praça Dom Vital s/n, Santo Antônio (no phone), is a great place to browse. Vendors sell locally made hammocks, baskets, ceramics, and lace. Hours are Monday through Saturday from 6am to 5:30pm and Sunday from 6am to noon.

The Performing Arts

Recife's prime theater venue is the elegant Teatro Princesa Isabel, Praça da República s/n (tel. 081/3224-1020), built in 1850. Just reopened after years of renovations, it's worth checking local listings for events held at this lovely venue.

Clubs & Bars

Recife's historic downtown has undergone a complete face-lift, becoming a cultural and entertainment district. Activities center around the Rua do Bom Jesus; lined with at least 15 bars and restaurants, this is one of the best places in town Thursday through Saturday and Sunday afternoons. Free concerts add to the entertainment, and on Sunday there's a street market.

One of Old Recife's nicest bars is the Arsenal do Chopp, Praça Artur Oscar 59, at the corner of Rua do Bom Jesus (tel. 081/3224-6259). Most tables are spread out over the sidewalk; for a quiet spot grab a table inside. Another great venue downtown is the Patio de São Pedro. Beautifully restored, this square now hosts a variety of free outdoor music events. On Tuesday, locals gather for the Terça Negra, an event with Afoxé music, a style with heavy African influences. On Saturday, a younger crowd gathers to dance to maracatu, mangue beat, and other regional tunes. Events start at 7 or 8pm.

In Boa Viagem the favorite nightspot is Polo Pina, a few square blocks around Pina beach and Avenida Herculano Bandeira de Melo. Recently named the best bar in Recife, Biruta Bar, Rua Bem-te-Vi, Pina (tel. 081/3326-5151; www.birutabar.com.br), features a large veranda looking out over the ocean, making it the perfect setting for a special date. On Thursday, Biruta presents blues bands and on Friday there's forró. Tip: This bar is not easy to find and the small detour cuts through a bit of a dark corner at the end of Pina. We recommend taking a taxi.

For more live music head out to the Uk Pub, Rua Francisco da Cunha 165, Boa Viagem (tel. 081/3465-1088; www.ukpub.com.br). Open Tuesday through Sunday, there is live music (samba, rock, pop) every night except Wednesday. It also has a great beer menu with more than 50 specialties. Cover ranges from R$5 to R$15. The best night for dancing at Boratcho, Av. Herculano Bandeira 513 (inside Galeria Joana d'Arc) (tel. 081/3327-1168; www.boratcho.com.br), is Thursday when DJs play a variety of music, including samba-rock and regional rhythms. Boteco, Av. Boa Viagem 1660, Boa Viagem (tel. 081/3325-1428), is a popular destination almost any night of the week. Serving the best beer in town, the bar is often packed with locals stopping by for an ice-cold chopp. Open daily.

Olinda is not known for its nightlife; most folks settle for wine and conversation over a late-night supper. One of the best spots for a drink or a stroll is the Alto da Sé. On weekends (Sun evening especially), locals flock to this prime view spot to grab a drink or some food from the many stalls and just hang out for an impromptu outdoor party. Olinda's cutest hole-in-the-wall spot is Bodega de Veio, Rua do Amparo 212 (tel. 081/3429-0185). It's just a small bar/old-fashioned convenience store where people put their drinks on the counter or sit on the sidewalk. Saturday features live forró. Note that this is not a late-night place; last round is at 11pm. Another laid-back fun spot is the Casa Maloca, Rua Amparo 183 (tel. 081/3429-7811), an art gallery and restaurant with, at the very back, the lovely Bar Olindita. Guests can sit at a long bar or funky tables scattered about the room. The best spots are on the patio, looking out toward Recife.

Gay & Lesbian Bars -- Metropole, Rua das Ninfas 125, Boa Vista (tel. 081/3423-0123; www.metropoledance.com.br), is a huge gay club for men with a bar, dance floor, and video room. Regular shows include go-go boys, strippers, and drag queen performances; it's open Friday and Saturday from 10pm until at least 5am. Another popular gay venue is the SPTZ, Rua Joaquim Nabuco 534, Graças (tel. 081/3223-9100). Open Tuesday through Sunday, from 6pm until at least 4am.