Things To Do in Rethymnon

For Wine Lovers -- Rethymnon's annual wine festival takes place for about 10 days starting near the end of July. It's centered around the public gardens, with music and dancing to accompany the samplings of local wines. The modest affair is a welcome change from larger, more staged festivals elsewhere.

Rethymnon Renaissance Festival -- Rethymnon's cultural festival offers mostly musical and theatrical events from July to early September. Productions range from ancient Greek dramas to more contemporary artistic endeavors (and now include folk and rock concerts). Most performers are Greek; some are foreigners. The majority of performances are staged in the Fortezza itself; there's nothing quite like listening to 17th-century music or seeing a Renaissance drama in this setting. For details, inquire at the tourist information office.

Here, as in Chania and Iraklion, you may be overwhelmed by the sheer number of gift shops offering mostly souvenirs. Looking for something different? Try Nikolaos Papalasakis's Palaiopoleiou, 40 Souliou, which is crammed with some genuine antiques, old textiles, jewelry, and curiosities such as the stringed instruments made by the proprietor. At Olive Tree Wood, 35 Arabatzoglou, the name says it all -- the store carries bowls, containers, and implements carved from olive wood. Evangeline, 36 Paleologlou, has a good selection of textiles, while Haroula Spridaki, 36 Souliou, has a nice selection of Cretan embroidery. Talisman, 32 Arabatzoglou, sells an interesting selection of blown glass, ceramics, plaques, paintings, and other handmade articles. And the AVLI Hotel's Raki Baraki, at 22 Xanthoudidou, has a large and varied selection of natural products from all over Greece.