Things To Do in Ribe

Gamle Stan -- The historic core of Ribe is the gem of all Old Towns on the peninsula of Jutland. Beginning at the Torvet or old market square, you can fan out in all directions, covering most of the major streets or lanes of interest within 2 hours, maybe more if you have the time. The well-preserved Ribe of the Middle Ages surrounds the cathedral, the Ribe Domkirke.

Instead of wandering at random, you can visit the tourist office, which sells a copy of a guided walking tour of Ribe for DKK10 ($1.70/£1). Our favorite hotel (Dagmar) and our favorite Ribe restaurant (Weis Stue) open onto the main square.

From Torvet many streets radiate out -- take Skolegade, for example, opening onto the west side of the Domkirke. Riis spent his final decade on the street at Hans Tausen's House, which dates from the early 17th century. A plaque marks the spot.

To the east of Torvet lies Skt. Catharine Kirke, the only remaining church built before the Reformation.

Arm yourself with a tourist-office map and discover other streets that evoke the Middle Ages, of which Fiskergade is one of the most evocative, with its offshoot alleys that lead to the riverfront. Talk about narrow alleys.

You can evoke yesteryear by riding a horse-drawn carriage through the cobblestone streets of Ribe. In summer, you can hire a carriage in Torvet, the central market square. The cost is DKK65 ($11/£6.50) per person for a ride of about 15 minutes, with carriages holding up to five passengers each. For more information, call tel. 75-42-19-94.

Anglers and fishermen head for Storkesøen, an interconnected trio of artificial lakes that are kept well-stocked with fish, especially trout. Known for their appeal to escapists and for their verdant beauty, they lie less than 1.5km (3/4 mile) south of Ribe. A permit allowing 4 consecutive hours of fishing costs DKK105 ($18/£11); 6 hours cost DKK145 ($25/£15); 9 hours go for DKK205 ($35/£21); and a permit good for 20 hours of fishing is priced at DKK470 ($80/£47). For more information, contact Storkesøen, Haulundvej 164 (tel. 75-41-04-11).

The Hotel Dagmar, on the market square, is the most happening place in Ribe. If it's winter, visit their cellar-level restaurant, Vægterkælderen (tel. 75-42-14-00), the place to enjoy a good meal in informal and traditional surroundings, or else to savor a glass of frothy, newly drawn ale in the company of locals. The kitchen serves homemade pickled herring, fresh fish dishes, and juicy steaks, but many locals just come in for a drink. In the summer months, you might want to sit outside in the Dagmar's courtyard, enjoying the Pavillionen (tel. 75-42-00-33). Hot drinks are served on cooler days, but if it's hot you can order draft beer or lemonade. Light summer meals, including fresh fish, are served. You can listen to the bells in the cathedral tower, admire the storks in their nests, and, if you're still around at 10 o'clock at night, see the night watchman as he prepares for his rounds.

The market square is also the home of the Stenbohus Pub & Bar, entered at Stenbogade 1 (tel. 75-42-01-22), where live music can be heard at least once a week -- folk, rock, soul, or blues. Otherwise, it's one of the most congenial taverns in town to meet locals over a glass of beer with a good head on it. Vægterkælderen is a classier joint for a drink; this one is more informal, attracting a more youthful crowd.