One of the city’s finest rococo palaces, the Palazzo Doria Pamphilj is still privately owned by the aristocratic Doria Pamphilj family, but their stupendous art collection is open to the public. The galleria winds through the old apartments, their paintings displayed floor-to-ceiling among antique furniture and richly decorated walls. The strong Dutch and Flemish collection includes Pieter Brueghel the Elder’s “Battle in the Port of Naples,” and his son Jan Brueghel the Elder’s “Earthly Paradise with Original Sin.” Among the best Italian works are two Caravaggio paintings, the moving “Repentant Magdalene” and his wonderful “Rest on the Flight into Egypt,” hanging near Titian’s “Salome with the Head of St. John.” There’s also Raphael’s “Double Portrait,” an “Annunciation” by Filippo Lippi, and a “Deposition from the Cross” by Vasari. The gallery’s real treasures occupy a special room: Bernini’s bust of the Pamphilj “Pope Innocent X” ★, and Velázquez’s enigmatic painting ★★ of the same man. Make sure you grab a free audio guide at the entrance—it’s colorfully narrated by Prince Jonathan Doria Pamphilj himself, who recalls roller-skating in the palazzo as a child.