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Palazzo Doria Pamhilj, one of the city’s finest Rococo palaces, is still privately owned by the aristocratic Doria Pamphilj family, but their stupendous art collection is open to the public. It’s a good idea to grab a free audio-tour at the entrance.

The galleria extends through the old apartments, with paintings displayed floor-to-ceiling amongst antique furniture, drapes, and richly decorated walls. The Dutch and Flemish collection is impressive, with highlights which include a rare Italian piece by Pieter Brueghel the Elder, “Battle in the Port of Naples” and his son Jan Brueghel the Elder’s “Earthly Paradise with Original Sin.” Of the best Italian works are two paintings by Caravaggio, the moving “Repentant Magdalene” and the wonderful “Rest on the Flight into Egypt,” hanging near “Salome with the Head of St. John,” by Titian. There’s also Raphael’s “Double Portrait,” an “Annunciation” by Filippo Lippi, and a “Deposition from the Cross” by Vasari. The gallery’s real treasures, however, occupy a special room: Bernini’s bust of the Pamphilj “Pope Innocent X” ★, and Velázquez’s celebrated, enigmatic painting ★★ of the same pope.