You know you’re sure of your place in the Roman culinary pantheon (sorry, couldn’t resist) when you opt to take Saturday nights and Sundays off. Despite the odd hours and a location just a few steps from the actual Pantheon, this family-run trattoria serves as many locals as tourists. Chef Armando Gargioli took over the place in 1961, and his sons now run the business. Roman favorites to look out for include cacio e pepe, marinated artichokes, and the Jewish-influenced aliciotti all’indivia (endive and roasted anchovies; Tues and Fri only). A Roman rarity: Vegetarians get their own, fairly extensive, menu. Advance reservations are a must.