Often mischaracterized as an offal-only joint, this establishment, opened in 1887 across from Rome’s now-defunct abattoir, is a special-night-out type of place, serving wonderful bucatini all’amatriciana and veal saltimbocca—as well as hearty plates of spleens, lungs, and livers. Checchino is a pricier choice than most of the other restaurants in this area, but Romans from all over the city keep coming back when they want the real thing. Despite its meat-centric leanings, Checchino also has a decent vegetarian menu. They will also make gluten-free pasta.