For haute quinto quarto fare, Checchino dal 1887 is your best bet. Testaccio has been changing rapidly, but not Checchino. It’s a more expensive choice than most of the other restaurants in this area. Still, Romans from all over the city keep coming back here when they want authentic tonnarelli al sugo di coda (pasta with a rich oxtail sauce, for which Checchino holds a secret recipe), and pajata (veal intestines) cooked any number of ways—with rigatoni pasta, roasted, or in a stew.