Fresh, modern, and progressive, the somewhat misnamed Retrobottega is a nice contrast to the well-worn streets of the touristy heart of town. This culinary laboratory, founded by four young, accomplished chefs, is an intimate but convivial choice. Most seats surround the open kitchen and customers interact directly with the chefs—there is no waitstaff. The day’s offerings focus on local, seasonal, responsibly sourced ingredients and unexpected pairings, like artichokes with mint and pecorino, or tortelli with anchovies and broccoli Romanesco.