Dine elbow to elbow with locals and enjoy the old-school atmosphere at this beloved institution of Roman ristorazione. With zero pretense, Perilli’s formally attired waitstaff serves unadulterated renditions of Roman classics. The dishes are reliable, from pasta standbys like carbonara and cacio e pepe to grilled meats to that most English of Italian desserts, zuppa inglese (literally “English soup,” or trifle). It’s a fun and reasonably affordable place to go for a real four-course meal of antipasto, primo, secondo, and dolce. Reservations recommended.