Things To Do in San Juan del Sur

San Juan del Sur has little of historical significance to see except the town's old clapboard houses and its simple wooden church, Parroquia San Juan, on the main plaza. The Lighthouse, a 1-hour trek south of the town, is also worth a visit. You must follow a trail behind the town dock until you turn right. This site has a spectacular view of the sea and coast. Below it, there is a pelican nesting area. On the northern side of town is an excellent petroglyph by the river depicting a 1,500-year-old hunting scene. To walk there, take the road to Rivas and turn left after the bridge. Continue walking until you reach a farm where water pipes lead you to the river. Be sure to ask permission, as you must cross private land. Otherwise, contact Da Flying Frog (tel. 505/8613-4460; tiguacal@cablenet.com.ni), which can include a trek to the petroglyph in their canopy excursion. Farther up the river is a small waterfall.

San Juan del Sur's other main attractions are the beaches and sea, though it must be said, this is not the Caribbean. Contradicting what many property-developer brochures may show you, the water is not turquoise clear, and the beaches here are not dazzling white and lined with endless palm trees. There are lots of water activities to be had, though.

Spanish Classes

Where better to learn the lingo than on the beach? The Latin American Spanish School, a half-block east of southwest corner of the central plaza (tel. 505/8820-2252; www.nicaspanish.org) offers classes, as well as homestays. The Spanish School House Rosa Silva, 50m (164 ft.) west of market (tel. 505/8682-2938; www.spanishsilva.com), also offers accommodations and activities.

Volunteer Opportunities

San Juan del Sur Biblioteca Móvil (tel. 505/2568-2338; www.sjdsbiblioteca.com) was started by the owner of Hotel Villa, Isabella Jane Mirandette, and is supported by the Hester J. Hodgon Libraries for All (www.librariesforall.org). As well as supplying books to the town from a building on the northern corner of the park, it also brings reading material to 27 rural schools in outlying districts. Volunteers can help by teaching English and aiding the mobile library. Books are welcome, as are cash donations.

Comunidad Connect (tel. 505/8408-3376; www.comunidadconnect.org) is a non-profit organization that aims to bring together locals and foreigners to help create sustainable development and poverty alleviation. Projects include a recycling drive, fundraising, and a sports park on the beach. Volunteer programs include homestays and Spanish classes.

The Olive Ridley Comes Out of Its Shell

Foraging dogs, pigs, coyotes, raccoons, and humans are just some of the dangers an Olive Ridley baby turtle faces, and that's before it even hatches. Then, once free of its shell in the sand, it must run to the pounding tide while avoiding vultures, frigate birds, crabs, and dogs. The sea offers cold comfort, as it is awash with preying fish. It's a wonder the harried reptile makes it at all, yet many do triumph and survive, and often swim as far as the Galápagos. The females return a year later to the very same beach to continue the cycle. As many as 20,000 arrive over a couple of days to dig holes with their hind flippers and lay 100 eggs each. A 7-week incubation period follows, during which the sex is determined by the heat; the hotter it is, the more likely the turtles are to be female. Then the eggs hatch again, and the turtles make their precarious nighttime sprint to the sea.

The mass hatchings of the Olive Ridley turtle are a sight to behold, and Nicaragua is one of the best places to see it. Chacocente and La Flor nature reserves (north and south of San Juan del Sur, respectively) offer the best chance to see this amazing phenomenon. Camping near the nesting areas guarantees a good spectacle, and many lodges and hostels offer nighttime excursions. The best time to see the turtles is from August to October. Caution is advised, as it is a delicate process that can be ruined by a swimming tourist or a flashing camera. Bear in mind that despite being around for 200 million years, the Olive Ridley is now unfortunately an endangered species.