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This was the casual family restaurant where Martín Berasategui won his first Michelin star at the age of 25, and it’s still a destination for gourmets in the know. Now run by chef Inaxio Valverde, Alejandro remains an exemplar of classic Basque cooking and hospitality. While he always offers a version of cod pil pil, Valverde is not a slave to tradition. He’s likely to present the cod as a confit in olive oil with steamed spider crab, for example. His appetizer of sautéed octopus comes with smoked tuna juices and paprika potatoes. And he does a brilliant riff on apple pie, making it with tart green apples sided by cheese ice cream.