Daniel López creates an updated version of traditional Basque flavors, served on minimalist plates in a pure white dining room flooded with light. Bright pops of color, intense flavors, and irresistible aromas prevent the experience from seeming too clinical. Portions are predictably small, and most diners opt for one of the menus to ensure variety (and volume). These dishes are treats you’re unlikely to encounter anywhere but on the Basque coast—plates like sea robin (a gumard, a fish with huge fins that tastes like sweeter, firmer flounder) served with goose barnacles and little spheres of grassy olive oil. Even the sole comes with a gazpacho-like sauce and bright gnocchi made with beets rather than potato. For dessert, don’t miss the “bread and tomato,” which is gingerbread with a dollop of tomato-raspberry jam and a scoop of tarragon-olive oil ice cream.
- Frommer's Staff