You will likely smell the wood smoke from Rekondo even before you reach the old stone house that holds this terrific Basque asador. The Basques have made a specialty of roasting meat over open flame, adeptly grilling chops and steaks or spit-roasting haunches of beef or whole kid or lamb. Rekondo branches out to all manner of seafood, grilling garlic-marinated squid and roasting whole spider crab directly over the coals before breaking it down to finish in a casserole tucked into a corner of the grill. The sommelier favors red wines as bold as the food—old-style Riojas and premier cru Bordeaux. In 2014, “Wine Spectator” cited Rekondo for one of the five best restaurant wine cellars in the world.