Hotels in San Simeon

Cambria's popularity in summertime and on holiday weekends makes advance planning necessary. If my favorites are full, try one of these alternatives: Captain's Cove Inn, 6454 Moonstone Beach Dr. (www.captainscoveinn.com; tel. 800/781-COVE [2683] or 805/927-8581), is a small beachfront B&B whose motel-style exterior belies the array of creature comforts provided by the family owners. The Ragged Point Inn, 19019 Hwy. 1 (www.raggedpointinn.com; tel. 805/927-4502), is 21 miles north of Cambria, with ocean views from every room. It's a great choice if you're planning to explore both Hearst Castle and the Big Sur Coast from one perch.

If you want a cheaper choice, try the Creekside Inn, 2618 Main St., Cambria (www.creeksidecambria.com; tel. 800/269-5212 or 805/927-4021). It's basic, but the village location is extremely convenient and the rates are considerably lower -- $69 to $159 double, year-round. Still too expensive? One mile north is San Simeon State Beach (tel. 800/444-7275 or 805/927-2020), a 133-site beachfront campground.

Note: If you can't find a vacancy anywhere in Cambria, the tiny town of San Simeon, 6 miles north, has numerous run-of-the-mill motels lining both sides of Hwy. 1, but I recommend staying here only as a last resort.