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El Papatorio Tapas & Brasas

One of the liveliest restaurants in a city of lively eating spots, El Papatorio has a stunning long bar inside the entrance where the day’s selection of tapas are arrayed. They can range from simple tortilla Española to roasted peppers stuffed with cod, and a whole variety of crisp fish “fingers” and croquettes. It’s easy to make a meal of the tapas, but there’s also a dining room in back. Preview the cuts of meat available in a case near the door. They include various steaks and chops of veal, aged beef, lamb, and pork. The bargain priced house wines include some excellent Albariños from O Rosal and reds from the Duero Valley.