Things To Do in Sausalito

Above all else, Sausalito has scenery and sunshine, for once you cross the Golden Gate Bridge, you’re usually out of the San Francisco fog patch and under blue California sky—with more comforting climate to boot. Houses cling to the town’s steep hills, overlooking a colony of sailboats below. Most of the tourist action, which is almost singularly limited to window-shopping and eating, takes place at sea level on Bridgeway. Sausalito is a mecca for shoppers seeking souvenirs, kitschy clothes and footwear, and arts and crafts. Many of the town’s shops are in the alleys, malls, and second-floor boutiques reached by steep, narrow staircases on and off Bridgeway. Caledonia Street, which runs parallel to Bridgeway 1 block inland, is home to more shops.

Younger children (up to 8 years old) will love the Bay Area Discovery Museum, East Fort Baker, 557 McReynolds Rd. (tel. 415/339-3900; www.baykidsmuseum.org; admission $11; 9am–5pm Tues–Sun, except holidays). Set upon 7 1/2 acres at Fort Baker, close to the base of the Golden Gate Bridge, this indoor-outdoor hands-on learning and play center is like San Francisco’s science-based Exploratorium for younger kids, complete with a pirate ship to climb on, art studios, interactive science exhibits, and a room devoted to trains. If you need to occupy young, active minds and want to experience a gorgeous setting yourself, this is the place to spend a few hours. There is a modest, but expensive cafe on-site serving wholesome sandwiches, soups, and salads. If you don’t want to pay a premium for basic provisions, bring your own snacks or lunch and eat at one of the picnic tables.

For science-minded folks fascinated by the Bay Area’s complex geography, visit the wholly original Bay Model Visitors Center, 2100 Bridgeway (tel. 415/332-3871; www.spn.usace.army.mil/missions/recreation/baymodelvisitorcenter.aspx; free admission; typically open Tues–Sun 10am–4pm). It’s a hangarlike space filled with a working, wet model of the entire Bay Area. Built in 1957 by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers to help scientists understand the complex patterns of the water currents and the tides, it’s capable of duplicating, at a smaller time scale, the way the tides flow in the Bay. Buildings aren’t represented, but major landmarks such as bridges are identifiable as you walk around the space, which is about the size of two football fields, or 1.5 acres. Water, which is shallow throughout, is studded with some 250,000 copper tabs that help recreate known current patterns.

The facility, the only one of its kind in the world, hasn’t been used for research since 2000, leaving it to educate school groups about Bay conservation. A visit is quite relaxing; many days, you’ll be one of the only guests there, and the only sounds in the enormous room will be the faint sound of the water pumps. The model sits on the site of an important World War II shipbuilding yard, called Marinship (“ma-RINN-ship”), and tucked away to the left of the exit (don’t miss it); it’s a terrific exhibit, full or artifacts and a video, that chronicles the yard, where an astonishing 93 ships were built in 3 1/2 wartime years.

Nearby, you’ll find one of my favorite things to do in Marin—head to Sea Trek Kayak at Richardson Bay (tel. 415/488-1000; www.seatrek.com), rent a kayak or standup paddleboard, and get out on the calm waters. Don't worry if you’ve never been in a kayak before or don’t have the right attire; these are unsinkable and virtually untippable, and Sea Trek provides waterproof gear you can slip over your clothes, and the experience is unbeatable. Rent a single-person kayak or a double and paddle your way around the shoreline to get up close and personal with dozens of sea lions and harbor seals, Sausalito’s charming and famously bohemian houseboat communities, and shorebirds. Afterward, a walk through the parking lot leads to my favorite lunch spot in Marin—Le Garage.

Sleep at Golden Gate

If your trip allows for a night away from city noise, Sausalito's Fort Baker boasts one of the most charming getaways in the country in an unforgettable, soothing seting. Called Cavallo Point Lodge (601 Murray Circle, Fort Baker; tel. 415/339-4700; www.cavallopoint.com; $309–$429 standard suite; $600 for two-bedroom suite, which sleeps 6), it’s located in the fort’s former general’s quarters that flank the center green have been restored to offer historic lodging at the base of the Golden Gate Bridge, just 10 minutes from the city. Each room has postcard-perfect views of the famous red arches, San Francisco’s Marina district, or the rolling hills of the Marin Headlands. The resort’s partnership with Lexus means U.S. residents staying at the hotel can borrow a luxury sedan to explore the surrounding areas and city. Even if you can’t stay the night, this historic slice of paradise is worth a visit. Have a meal at Murray Circle or Farley Bar, where you can enjoy Californian cuisine on the plush porch seating while soaking up the view. Or snag a rocking chair, the perfect place to enjoy the hosted wine and appetizer hour every evening. Take a cooking class in the sunny working kitchen where local chefs teach guests how to use the organic bounty of the area. Or for a daily fee, enjoy use of the meditation pool, sauna, and Jacuzzi at the hotel's spa.