North America / USA / Washington State / Seattle

Planning a trip to Seattle

When to Go

In Portland and Seattle we like to say that summer begins on July 5th. It’s mostly true—or as true as anything can be in an age of rapid climate change. So if you are planning to spend your holidays in either city, and want to maximize your chances for sunshine and warm weather, July 5 through September 15 are the best months to visit.

The summers truly are splendid, and life in both cities moves outdoors as much as possible. The parks are verdant, the gardens are glorious, there are outdoor festivals galore, and you can sit outside comfortably all evening, until it gets chilly enough for a sweater. That’s the beauty of summer in Seattle and Portland—no matter how hot the day, the nights cool down (sometimes by 30 degrees) so that you need a blanket. And when it’s hot, it’s dry, not humid, because the hot air comes from the deserts east of the Cascades and flows down the Columbia Gorge and through the valleys to Portland and Seattle. The downside when it gets very warm and the winds stop blowing is inversion and air pollution. Ick.

Nobody but gardeners believe me when I tell them that Portland and Seattle actually have what is considered a Mediterranean climate. What this means is that it generally rains almost constantly in one form or another from mid-October through June, with plenty of clear days and periods of truly great weather along the way. From November through March, the temperature remains temperate, rarely dipping below freezing and usually hovering in the 40s. By April it starts warming up, though the precipitation persists, and by May and June temperatures rise to the mid-70s with (of late) sudden spikes into the 80s and even low 90s (all temperatures in Fahrenheit). Plants love this climate, and so do gardeners.

June is when Portland holds its famous Rose Festival, but I’ve often thought it should be called the Rain Festival because it always seems to rain during the two big parades. Why not celebrate what makes life out here so green?

But can I convince you to come earlier in the year? If you are a gardener, in love with the egregious excesses of spring, come to Seattle or Portland in late April through May. You will be dazzled by the exuberance of spring in the Northwest, as cherry trees burst into pink bloom; camellias open; rhododendrons, azaleas, magnolias, and dogwoods flower; and the tulip fields near Portland and Seattle rival—maybe surpass—those in Holland. Yes, the springtime weather is very changeable, and you will have rain, but you also won’t miss the floral fecundity of these two cities when spring is at its freshest and richest.

The heavenly summer weather often stretches out through September, sometimes into early October. This, too, is a fabulous time to visit because of the bounty you’ll find at the farmers markets and the cultural pleasures you’ll enjoy as the performing arts venues swing into performance mode.

As for winter—well, if you’re a skier or snowboarder, you know why winter would be a good time to come. The mountains (Mount Rainier and Mount Hood) are generally ready to chairlift skiers up their slopes by mid-November—though I hasten to add that in recent years the snow has been arriving later and staying longer.

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Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Most disabilities shouldn't stop anyone from traveling in Seattle. Thanks to provisions in the Americans with Disabilities Act, most public places are required to comply with disability-friendly regulations.

Almost all public establishments (including hotels, restaurants, museums, and such) and at least some modes of public transportation provide accessible entrances and other facilities for those with disabilities. For anyone using a wheelchair, the greatest difficulty of a visit to Seattle is dealing with the city's many steep hills, which rival those of San Francisco. One solution for dealing with downtown hills is to use the elevator at Pike Place Market to get between the waterfront and First Avenue. There's also a public elevator at the west end of Lenora Street (just north of Pike Place Market). This elevator connects the waterfront with the Belltown neighborhood. If you stay at the Edgewater hotel, right on the waterfront, you'll have easy access to all of the city's waterfront attractions, and you'll be able to use the elevators to get to Pike Place Market.

Most hotels now offer wheelchair-accessible accommodations, and some of the larger and more expensive properties also offer TDD telephones and other amenities for the hearing- and sight-impaired.

For information on public bus accessibility, contact Metro (tel. 206/263-3113; http://metro.kingcounty.gov/tops/accessible/accessible.html). For Metro TTY service, call tel. 711.

The America the Beautiful -- National Park and Federal Recreational Lands Pass -- Access Pass gives people who are visually impaired or have permanent disabilities (regardless of age) free lifetime entrance to federal recreation sites administered by the National Park Service (NPS), including the Fish and Wildlife Service, the Forest Service, the Bureau of Land Management, and the Bureau of Reclamation. This may include national parks, monuments, historic sites, recreation areas, and national wildlife refuges. If you plan to visit Mount Rainier National Park or Olympic National Park, this pass is a must.

The America the Beautiful Access Pass can be obtained in person at any NPS facility that charges an entrance fee. You need to show proof of a medically determined disability. Besides free entry, the pass also offers a 50% discount on some federal-use fees charged for such facilities as camping, swimming, parking, boat launching, and tours. For more information, go to www.nps.gov/fees_passes.htm or call the United States Geological Survey (USGS; tel. 888/275-8747).

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Before you even reach your hotel in Seattle, you can do your part for the environment by taking the Link light rail from the airport to downtown Seattle. If you must rent a car, you can get a hybrid car from Enterprise or Avis.

If you don't want to be sleepless in Seattle worrying about the environmental impact of your vacation, book a room at the Hyatt at Olive 8. When it opened in 2009, it became the first Seattle hotel certified by Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED), an organization that certifies environmentally sustainable construction practices. Although this is primarily a business and convention hotel, it is conveniently located and offers some great amenities, including a spa and a pool. The Kimpton Hotels chain (www.kimptonhotels.com), which operates the Alexis Hotel, Hotel Vintage Park, and Hotel Monaco, also goes out of its way to be environmentally friendly and socially responsible.

When it comes to eating out in Seattle, you've got loads of eco-friendly options. At many of the restaurants listed in this guide, you'll find that the chefs rely on local and organic produce as much as possible. The locavore movement (eating foods grown or raised nearby) has been wholeheartedly embraced here in Seattle. Restaurants emphasizing organic and sustainably produced ingredients include Tilth, Spur Gastropub, Portage Bay Café, and Agua Verde Cafe.

Caffe Ladro espresso bars serve organic, fair-trade coffee, and Theo Chocolate, a local maker of chocolate bars and other chocolate confections, uses fair-trade cocoa beans. You can even tour its factory in the Fremont neighborhood.

If you plan on heading out of town on an adventurous outing, consider booking your tour with EverGreen Escapes, which uses biodiesel tour vehicles. In addition to the resources for Seattle listed above, see frommers.com/planning for more tips on responsible travel.

Neighborhoods in Brief

Seattle is a maritime city wedged between Elliott Bay in Puget Sound to the west, and giant, freshwater Lake Washington to the east. The freshwater lake is connected to the saltwater Sound by the Chittenden Locks and Lake Union at the north end of downtown. Puget Sound is dotted with islands that are not part of Seattle proper but are bedroom communities served by commuter ferries; the most prominent and populous are Bainbridge Island, Vashon Island, and Whidbey Island.

Downtown This is Seattle’s main business district and can be defined roughly as the area from Pioneer Square in the south to around Pike Place Market in the north, and from First Avenue to Eighth Avenue. It’s characterized by steep streets, high-rise office buildings, luxury hotels, and a high density of shopping malls, and shops. This is also where you’ll find the Seattle Art Museum and Benaroya Hall, home to the Seattle Symphony and the city's major downtown concert venue. Hotels in this area are convenient to Pioneer Square, Pike Place Market, and the Convention Center.

The Waterfront The Seattle waterfront stretches along Alaskan Way from roughly Washington Street in the south to Broad Street and Myrtle Edwards Park in the north. This is the most touristy neighborhood in Seattle, presided over by the Seattle Great Wheel. In addition to the many tacky gift shops, fish-and-chips windows, and tour-boat docks, you’ll also find the city’s only waterfront hotel (The Edgewater), the Seattle Aquarium, and at its northern end, the must-see Olympic Sculpture Park.

Belltown This neighborhood, stretching north from Pike Place Market to Seattle Center, is home to the city’s liveliest restaurant and club scene and is constantly expanding and redefining itself. There are some good, out-of-downtown shops and a couple of good hotels, including the Warwick and The Ace.

Pioneer Square The Pioneer Square Historic District, known for its restored 1890s buildings, is centered on the corner of First Avenue and Yesler Way. This is the oldest settled part of Seattle, and its tree-lined streets and cobblestone plazas make it the most atmospheric neighborhood downtown. Pioneer Square (which refers to the neighborhood, not a specific square) is full of antiques shops, art galleries, restaurants, bars, and nightclubs; it’s also where you’ll find the wonderfully entertaining Underground Tour.

Seattle Center One of the city’s tourist magnets, Seattle Center occupies the site of the famous 1962 World’s Fair and is still served by a vintage monorail from downtown. Towering above it all is the iconic Space Needle, and here you’ll find the Pacific Science Center and Chihuly Garden and Glass. Seattle Center wasn’t really a “neighborhood” but in the last couple of years new apartment buildings have gone up on the surrounding streets.

South Lake Union At the north end of downtown, extending east of Seattle Center to the southern and western shores of Lake Union, this is Seattle’s newest and still developing neighborhood. Most of it is owned and has been developed by Microsoft gazillionaire Paul Allen—but the main corporate presence here is now Amazon, with three new towers and biospheres forming the company’s world headquarters. Formerly a low-rise warehouse and industrial area, South Lake Union has been transformed over the last decade into a residential and business neighborhood for high-tech and biotech companies. A streetcar line connects the area to downtown. The Pan Pacific Hotel serves the high-end business side of the neighborhood. The fascinating Museum of History and Industry (MOHAI) is housed in the former Naval Reserve building on Lake Union.

Chinatown/International District Known to locals as the I.D., this small but distinctive neighborhood is home to a large Asian population. Here you’ll find the Wing Luke Asian Museum, Hing Hay Park (a small park with an ornate pagoda), Uwajimaya (an Asian supermarket), and many small shops and restaurants. The Chinatown/International District begins around Fifth Avenue South and South Jackson Street.

First Hill  Because it is home to several large hospitals, this hilly neighborhood just east of downtown and across I-5 is called “Pill Hill” by Seattleites. First Hill is home to the Frye Art Museum and a couple of good hotels. It is an old Seattle residential neighborhood, too; once grand, now not so but with some nice strollable streets.

Capitol Hill To the northeast of downtown, centered along Broadway near Volunteer Park, Capitol Hill is Seattle’s main gay neighborhood and has long been a popular youth-culture shopping and entertainment district. Broadway sidewalks are often crowded, and it is nearly impossible to find a parking space. In recent years, the area has been undergoing a big spruce-up. New condominiums have been built on Broadway, and along 12th Avenue, near the intersection with Pike Street and there are now some good restaurants. Outside its commercial area, parts of Capitol Hill are undeniably attractive, with fine old homes and mansions; Volunteer Park is one of Seattle’s great parks and contains a wonderful plant conservatory and the Seattle Asian Museum.

University District This neighborhood in the northeast section of the city surrounding the University of Washington is called the U District for short. Because it’s a college neighborhood, it’s a good place to find inexpensive ethnic restaurants, pubs, clubs, espresso bars, and music stores. Visitors come to this area to visit the great Washington Park Arboretum and the gorgeous Seattle Japanese Garden.

Queen Anne Hill  With its great city and water views, affluent Queen Anne, just northwest of Seattle Center, has long been one of the most prestigious residential areas in Seattle and features some of Seattle’s oldest homes. The neighborhood is divided into the Upper Queen Anne and Lower Queen Anne. Upper Queen Anne is very peaceful and abounds in moderately priced restaurants. Lower Queen Anne, adjacent to theaters and Marion Oliver McCaw Hall at Seattle Center, is something of a theater district and has a more urban character.

Fremont If you have time to visit only one neighborhood outside of downtown, make it Fremont. North of the Lake Washington Ship Canal between Wallingford and Ballard, Fremont is home to Seattle’s best-loved piece of public art—Waiting for the Interurban—as well as the famous Fremont Troll sculpture. This is Seattle’s most independent neighborhood, filled with eclectic shops and ethnic restaurants. During the summer, there’s a Sunday flea market. The neighborhood celebrates its left-leaning vitality with a yearly street fair—watch for the nude bicyclists!

Ballard In northwest Seattle, bordering the Lake Washington Ship Canal and Puget Sound, Ballard is a former (hard-)working-class Scandinavian community that prides itself in its past (the Nordic History Museum is here) and is rediscovering its old urban charms and character. One of Seattle’s most enjoyable neighborhoods, Ballard is a great place to discover off-the-beaten-path shops and restaurants. Art galleries and interesting boutiques and shops are set along the tree-shaded streets of the neighborhood’s old commercial center, also the site of Ballard’s famous Sunday Farmers Market. Ray’s Boathouse is probably the best-known of Ballard’s restaurants.

The Eastside Home to Bill Gates, Microsoft, countless high-tech spinoff companies, and seemingly endless suburbs, the Eastside lies across Lake Washington from Seattle proper and comprises the cities of Kirkland, Bellevue, Redmond, and a few other smaller communities. As the presence of Bill Gates’s mansion attests, there are some pretty wealthy neighborhoods here; but except for Bellevue this isn’t an area that draws tourists.

West Seattle West Seattle, across from the downtown port facility, is not just the site of the terminal for ferries to Vashon Island and the Kitsap Peninsula. It’s also the site of Seattle’s favorite beach, Alki, which is as close to a Southern California beach experience as you’ll find in the Northwest. Here, too, is the waterfront restaurant with the best view of Seattle: Salty’s on Alki Beach. Seattle’s very first white settlers landed on Alki Point, but after a miserably wet winter moved east to the area that would become Pioneer Square.

Calendar of Events

Seattleites will hold a festival at the drop of a rain hat, and summers here seem to revolve around the city's myriad celebrations. To find out what special events will be taking place while you're in town, check the "NW Ticket" arts-and-entertainment section of the Friday Seattle Times, or pick up a copy of Seattle Weekly. Remember, festivals here take place rain or shine. For more specific dates than those listed here, take a look at the calendar of events on Seattle's Convention and Visitors Bureau website (www.visitseattle.org), which is updated as dates become available.

In addition to the festivals listed here, a series of more than a dozen cultural community festivals is held every year at Seattle Center. Called Festál, this series celebrates Seattle's cultural diversity. In the past, they've held Vietnamese, African, Japanese, Filipino, Brazilian, and Tibetan festivals. For information, contact Seattle Center (tel. 206/684-7200; www.seattlecenter.com).

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

February

Chinatown/International District Lunar New Year Celebration (tel. 206/382-1197; www.cidbia.org). Celebrations are held at Hing Hay Park (423 Maynard Ave S.), celebrating the Chineses New Year with dragon kites, music, and dance. February 5, 2019

Northwest Flower & Garden Show (tel. 206/231-0140 or 206/620-0938; www.gardenshow.com), Seattle. Gardening buffs head to this extensive and well-curated show at the Washington State Convention and Trade Center. See website for details on dates.

March

Moisture Festival (tel. 206/297-1405; www.moisturefestival.com), various venues. This month-long festival is a sort of modern vaudeville celebration of classic comedy/varietè performances and burlesque. Mid-March to early April.

April

Seattle Cherry Blossom and Japanese Cultural Festival (tel. 206/684-7200 or 206/723-2003; www.seattlecenter.com), Seattle Center. Traditional Japanese spring festival. Early to mid-April.

Skagit Valley Tulip Festival (tel. 360/428-5959; www.tulipfestival.org); Held in and around La Conner, an hour north of Seattle, this event shows off the enormous fields of tulips and daffodils blanketing the valley with a kaleidoscope of color, accompanied by festivities. See website for info on exact dates.

May

Opening Day of Boating Season (tel. 206/325-1000; www.seattleyachtclub.org), Lake Union and Lake Washington. A parade of boats and much fanfare take place as Seattle boaters bring out everything from kayaks to yachts. First Saturday in May.

Seattle Maritime Festival (tel. 206/787-3163; www.portseattle.org). Tugboat races are the highlight of this annual Port of Seattle event. Festivities are centered on the Bell Street Pier (Pier 66) on the Seattle waterfront. Early May.

UDistrict StreetFair (tel. 206/547-4417; www.udistrictstreetfair.org), University District. This is the first big street fair of the season in Seattle and includes lots of crafts booths, food vendors, and live music. Mid-May.

Seattle International Film Festival (tel. 206/324-9996; www.siff.net), at theaters around town. New foreign and independent films are screened over several weeks during this highly regarded film festival. Late May to mid-June.

Northwest Folklife Festival (tel. 206/684-7300; www.nwfolklife.org), Seattle Center. This is one of the largest folklife festivals in the country, with dozens of national and regional folk musicians performing on numerous stages. In addition, you'll find crafts vendors from all over the Northwest, lots of good food, and dancing. Memorial Day weekend.

June

Edmonds Art Festival (tel. 425/771-6412; www.edmondsartsfestival.com), Edmonds. This is the first big art festival of the year in the Puget Sound area, and many of the region's top artists and craftspeople attend. Third weekend in June.

Fremont Fair (tel. 206/632-1500; www.fremontfair.com). A celebration of the summer solstice with a wacky parade, naked bicyclists, food, arts and crafts, and entertainment in one of Seattle's favorite neighborhoods. Third weekend in June.

Seattle Pride (tel. 206/322-9561; www.seattlepride.org), Capitol Hill. With several days of revelry leading up to and including the last weekend in June, this is the largest gay, lesbian, bisexual, and transgender parade and festival in the Northwest. Last week in June.

July

Fireworks at Lake Union (tel. 206/281-7788; www.seafair.com/events/), Gas Works Park. Seattle's main Fourth of July fireworks display. July 4th.

Seafair (tel. 206/728-0123; www.seafair.com). This is the biggest Seattle event of the year, with an abundance of festivities -- parades, hydroplane boat races, an air show with the Navy's Blue Angels, the Torchlight Parade, ethnic festivals, sporting events, and tours of naval ships. Events take place all over Seattle. Early July to early August.

Chinatown International District Dragon Fest (tel. 206/382-1197; www.cidbia.org). Music, dancing, arts, and food of Seattle's Asian district. Second weekend in July.

Viking Days (tel. 206/789-5707; www.nordicmuseum.org) Seattle's Ballard neighborhood was founded by Scandinavians, and that heritage is still celebrated every summer at the Nordic Heritage Museum. Lots of Scandinavian crafts and foods. Mid-July.

Bite of Seattle (tel. 425/295-3262; www.biteofseattle.com), Seattle Center. Sample bites from local restaurants or taste some wines. Mid-July.

Sequim Lavender Festival (tel. 360/681-3035; www.lavenderfestival.com). The town of Sequim, on the north side of the Olympic Peninsula, is a 30-minute ferry ride and an hour's drive from Seattle. Every summer the purple haze of lavender farms adds splashes of color to the landscape. This festival features farm visits and vendors selling lavender-themed art, crafts, cosmetics, and foods. Third weekend in July.

Bellevue Arts Museum ArtsFair (tel. 425/519-0770; www.bellevuearts.org), Bellevue Square, Bellevue. This is the largest arts-and-fine-crafts fair in the Northwest. Last weekend in July.

Camlann Medieval Village Summer Village Festivals (tel. 425/788-8624; www.camlann.org), Carnation. Come all ye lords and ladies and enjoy knightly combat, demonstrations of long bows, wandering minstrels, and medieval banquets. Weekends late July to late August.

August

Chief Seattle Days (tel. 360/598-3311; www.suquamish.nsn.us), Suquamish tribal headquarters. A celebration of Northwest Native American culture across Puget Sound from Seattle. Third weekend in August.

September

Bumbershoot (tel. 206/281-7788; www.bumbershoot.org). Seattle's second-most-popular festival derives its peculiar name from a British term for an umbrella -- an obvious reference to the rainy weather. Rock music and other events pack Seattle's youthful set into Seattle Center and other venues. You'll find plenty of arts and crafts on display, too. Labor Day weekend.

Fremont Oktoberfest (tel. 206/633-0422; www.fremontoktoberfest.com). With beer gardens, a "Miss Buxom" contest, a chainsaw pumpkin-carving competition, and a 5K "Brew Ha-Ha" walk/run, this fun festival puts Fremont's funky spin on the German tradition. Late September.

Lake Union Wooden Boat Festival (tel. 206/382-2628; www.cwb.org), Center for Wooden Boats. Wooden boats, both old and new, from all over the Northwest are displayed. Demonstrations, food, and entertainment. End of September.

October

Issaquah Salmon Days Festival (tel. 425/392-0661; www.salmondays.org). This festival in Issaquah, 15 miles east of Seattle, celebrates the annual return of salmon that spawn within the city limits. First full weekend in October.

Earshot Jazz Festival ([tel 206/547-6763; www.earshot.org). With three weeks of jazz concerts at venues around the city, this is Seattle's premier jazz festival. Mid-October to early November.

November

Seattle Marathon (tel. 206/729-3660; www.seattlemarathon.org), around the city. With all the hills, you have to be crazy to run a marathon in Seattle, but plenty of people do it every year. Sunday after Thanksgiving.

December

Argosy Cruises Christmas Ships Festival (tel. 888/623-1445 or 206/622-8687; www.argosycruises.com), various locations. Boats decked out with imaginative Christmas lights parade past various waterfront locations. Argosy Cruises offers tours. Throughout December.

New Year's at the Needle (tel. 800/937-9582 or 206/905-2100; www.spaceneedle.com), Seattle. The Space Needle ushers in the new year with a big fireworks show when midnight strikes. December 31.

Getting Around

Seattle is a sprawling city with lots of neighborhoods to explore, a lively downtown core, and a half-carny waterfront that attracts the sea-lion’s share of tourist attention. Seattle is notorious for its traffic jams, so avoid them: most visitors find they do just fine here on foot, or using public transportation. Unless you’re planning on taking a lot of day trips out of the city, you don’t need your own car to enjoy a vacation in Seattle.

Central Seattle—including downtown, Belltown, Seattle Center, South Lake Union, the waterfront, and Pioneer Square—is fairly compact and walkable. There is also a good bus system, a streetcar that connects downtown to South Lake Union, and a light-rail system that connects Seattle to the airport and makes some stops along the way.

If you’re staying in downtown Seattle, a car is unnecessary. Parking is difficult and expensive, and Seattle traffic jams are awful. If you are planning a day trip to Mount Rainier National Park, however, a car is necessary. And a car makes getting to Seattle neighborhoods like Ballard, Fremont, and Capitol Hill easier (though you still have to find a parking space when you get there).

In Washington, as in Oregon, you may turn right on a red light after a full stop, and if you are in the far-left lane of a one-way street, you may turn left into the adjacent left lane of a one-way street at a red light after a full stop. Everyone in a moving vehicle is required to wear a seat belt.

By Public Transportation

Save money: All-Day Regional Transit Pass

If you’re planning to travel around Seattle on public transportation, consider getting an All-Day Regional Transit Pass for $8. You can use this pass on all of Seattle’s public transportation services except for the monorail and on Washington State Ferries. The downside is that you have to buy an ORCA card (a reusable transit card that costs $5 and can be refilled) in order to download the $8 all-day pass from a vending machine. Seniors can get the all-day pass for $4, and the ORCA card for $3.50.

BY BUS Seattle’s Metro (http://metro.kingcounty.gov; tel. 800/542-7876 in Washington or 206/553-3000) bus and electric trolley system covers all of greater Seattle. Fares are based on zones and travel time. Off-peak fares for all zones are $2.25 for adults, .75 for seniors, and $1.25 for ages 6–18. During peak commuter hours, adult fares go up to $2.50 for 1 zone, $3.00 for 2 zones; senior and children fares remain the same. Use exact change and pay on the bus.

BY STREETCAR One line of the Seattle Streetcar (www.seattlestreetcar.org) runs from downtown to Lake Union. The newer Capitol Hill line runs north-south along Broadway to Pioneer Square. The Lake Union line will take you to the Museum of History and Industry on lake Union; the Pioneer Square line will deposit you in the heart of Seattle’s historic district, where you’ll find the Underground Tour, Smith Tower Observation Deck, and lots of architectural and artistic character. Fares are $2.50 for adults, $1 for seniors, $1.50 for ages 6 to 17.

BY LIGHT RAIL The Central Link Light Rail (www.soundtransit.org) runs beneath 3rd Avenue from Westlake Station to Sea-Tac airport, making key downtown stops along the way including Pioneer Square and the Chinatown/International District, and north to Capitol Hill (for strolling, shopping and dining on Broadway) and the University of Washington. Adult fares range from $2.50 to $3.25 depending on distance traveled and time of travel; the senior rate is $1, and youth rate is $1.50.

BY MONORAIL The fastest way to get between downtown and Seattle Center is the historic Seattle Monorail (www.seattlemonorail.com; tel. 206/905-2620), an elevated train built for the 1962 Seattle World’s Fair. It leaves every 10 minutes from Westlake Center shopping mall (Fifth Ave. and Pine St.) and covers the 1 1/4 miles in 2 minutes, dropping you off near the Space Needle. The monorail operates daily from 9am to 11pm (in winter, Sun–Thurs 8am–8pm; Fri and Sat 9am–11pm). Departures are every 10 minutes. A one-way fare is $2.25 for adults, $1 for seniors, and 75 cents for ages 5 to 12.

BY WATER TAXI A water taxi runs between Pier 55 on the downtown Seattle waterfront to Seacrest Park in West Seattle, providing access to West Seattle’s popular Alki Beach and adjacent paved path. For schedules, check with Metro (http://metro.kingcounty.gov). The one-way fare is $5.25 for adults and ages 6 to 18, $2.25 for seniors.

BY FERRY Washington State Ferries (www.wsdot.wa.gov/ferries; tel. 800/843-3779 or 888/808-7977 in Washington or 206/464-6400) is the most extensive ferry system in the United States. These big passenger and car ferries, used primarily by commuters, won’t help you get around Seattle itself, but they offer great options for scenic trips from downtown Seattle to Bremerton (1-hr. crossing) and Bainbridge Island (35-min. crossing), among other destinations. One-way walk-on (no car) fares between Seattle and Bainbridge Island are $8.20 for adults, $4.10 for seniors and ages 6 to 18. You’ll pay more, of course, if you take your car.

By Car

Leave those four wheels at home. Seattle's traffic congestion is bad, parking is limited (and expensive), and streets are almost all one-way. If you drive to the city, you’ll avoid frustration by leaving your car in your hotel parking garage. The city center is well served by public transportation. Plus, Seattle is very walkable. The only time you’ll need a car is if you want to explore beyond Seattle proper—that is, north of Seattle Center, east of Lake Washington, south of the sports stadiums, or to any of the islands in Puget Sound (Bainbridge, Vashon, Whidbey)—or take day trips farther afield, to Mount Rainier or La Conner and the tulips fields of the Skagit Valley. The best strategy is to rent only for the days you’re going on these day trips.

PARKING  On-street parking in downtown Seattle is expensive and extremely limited. Most downtown parking lots charge $25 to $35 per day, though many offer early-bird or after-5pm specials. Some lots near the Space Needle charge less, and you can leave your car there, then take the monorail downtown. Some restaurants and Pike Place Market merchants validate parking permits. Expect to pay about $40 a day for valet parking at downtown hotels.

DRIVING RULES & TIPS  Washington State law prohibits texting or talking on a telephone while driving; stiff fines will result if you are caught. You can make a right turn at a red light after coming to a full stop. A left turn at a red light is permissible from a one-way street onto another one-way street after coming to a full stop.

If you park your car on a sloping street, be sure to turn your wheels to the curb. When parking on the street, check the time limit on your parking meter. During rush hour, be sure to check whether or not your street parking space is restricted.

By Taxi

Taxis can be difficult to hail on the street in Seattle, so it’s best to call or wait at the taxi stands at major hotels. Two reliable companies are Yellow Cab (www.yellowtaxi.net; tel. 206/622-6500) or Farwest Taxi (www.farwesttaxi.net; tel. 206/622-1717). The flag-drop charge is $2.60; after that, it’s $2.70 per mile. A maximum of four passengers can share a cab; the third and fourth passengers will each incur a surcharge of 50 cents. Of course, you can also use Uber (www.uber.com) and Lyft (www.lyft.com) car services to get around.

On Foot

Seattle is a surprisingly compact city. Following north-south avenues, you can easily walk from Pioneer Square to downtown Seattle, Pike Place Market, the waterfront, and Seattle Center. Walking from west to east is another story. When you head east from the waterfront, you will be climbing some steep hills or stairways.

Special-Interest Vacations

Adventure & Wellness Trips

If you want to turn a trip to Seattle into an adventure, book a multiday kayak tour with Northwest Outdoor Center, 2100 Westlake Ave. N, Ste. 1 (tel. 800/683-0637 or 206/281-9694; www.nwoc.com), which offers a variety of sea-kayak tours.

For a very different sort of hiking tour, contact Deli Llama (tel. 360/757-4212; www.delillama.com), which offers llama trekking tours in Olympic National Park.

With its biodiesel vans and Jeeps, EverGreen Escapes (tel. 866/203-7603 or 206/650-5795; www.evergreenescapes.com) is an environmentally conscious tour company specializing in adventurous getaways. Hiking, rafting, kayaking, and bicycling are all options on this company's tours.

Food & Wine Trips/Cooking Classes

Seattle is the sort of city that foodies and wine lovers dream about -- great restaurants with access to superb local ingredients and dozens of wineries within 30 minutes of the city. If you'd like to focus on food or wine on your vacation, check out some of the offerings from these cooking schools and wine-tour companies.

One of my favorite Seattle chefs, Tom Douglas, offers 5-day summer culinary camps ($2,500). To learn more, visit www.tomdouglas.com. Another local chef, Christine Keff, offers cooking classes through her restaurant, Flying Fish, 300 Westlake Ave. N. (tel. 206/728-8595; www.flyingfishseattle.com). The lunchtime classes cost $55.

If you want to add a cooking class to a day spent ogling all the great produce at Pike Place Market, check the calendar at Diane's Market Kitchen, 1101 Post Alley (tel. 877/624-6114 or 206/624-6114; www.dianesmarketkitchen.com), a cooking school just a few blocks away from the market. Local cooking store Dish it up! (http://dish-it-up.com) with two locations -- in the Magnolia neighborhood at 2425 33rd Ave. W, Ste. B (tel. 888/322-2665 or 206/281-7800), and in the Ballard neighborhood at 5320 Ballard Ave. NW (tel. 206/971-0400) -- offers a wide range of classes, many of which feature local chefs. At Auberge Edge of Seattle Cooking School, 16400 216th Ave. NE, Woodinville, WA 98077 (tel. 425/844-4102; www.edgeof-seattle-cooking.com), you can stay in wine country and spend a couple of days learning new cooking techniques.

For a tour of the nearby Woodinville wine country, get in touch with Bon Vivant Wine Tours (tel. 206/524-8687; www.bonvivanttours.com), which offers day tours of the area and also does full-day tours to eastern Washington's wine country.

Fast Facts

Area Codes -- The area codes are 206 in Seattle, 425 for the Eastside (including Kirkland and Bellevue), and 253 for south King County (near the airport).

Business Hours -- The following are general guidelines; specific establishments' hours may vary. Banks are open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm (some also on Sat 9am-noon). Stores are open Monday through Saturday from 10am to 6pm and Sunday from noon to 5pm (malls usually stay open until 9pm Mon-Sat). Bars can stay open until 2am.

Doctors -- To find a doctor, check with the front desk or concierge at your hotel or look in the yellow pages of the local telephone book under "Physician."

Drinking Laws -- The legal age for purchase and consumption of alcoholic beverages is 21; proof of age is required and often requested at bars, nightclubs, and restaurants, so it's always a good idea to bring ID when you go out. Do not carry open containers of alcohol in your car or any public area that isn't zoned for alcohol consumption. The police can fine you on the spot. Don't even think about driving while intoxicated.

Electricity -- Like Canada, the United States uses 110 to 120 volts AC (60 cycles), compared to 220 to 240 volts AC (50 cycles) in most of Europe, Australia, and New Zealand. Downward converters that change 220 to 240 volts to 110 to 120 volts are difficult to find in the United States, so bring one with you.

Embassies & Consulates -- All embassies are in the nation's capital, Washington, D.C. Some consulates are in major U.S. cities, and most nations have a mission to the United Nations in New York City. If your country isn't listed below, call for directory information in Washington, D.C. (tel. 202/555-1212) or check www.embassy.org/embassies.

The embassy of Australia is at 1601 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20036 (tel. 202/797-3000; www.usa.embassy.gov.au). Consulates are in New York, Honolulu, Houston, Los Angeles, and San Francisco.

The embassy of Canada is at 501 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20001 (tel. 202/682-1740; www.canadainternational.gc.ca/washington). Other Canadian consulates are in Buffalo (New York), Detroit, Los Angeles, New York, and Seattle.

The embassy of Ireland is at 2234 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/462-3939; www.embassyofireland.org). Irish consulates are in Boston, Chicago, New York, San Francisco, and other cities. Visit the website for complete listing.

The embassy of New Zealand is at 37 Observatory Circle NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/328-4800; www.nzembassy.com). New Zealand consulates are in Los Angeles, Salt Lake City, San Francisco, and Seattle.

The embassy of the United Kingdom is at 3100 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/588-6500; http://ukinusa.fco.gov.uk). Other British consulates are in Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, Cleveland, Houston, Los Angeles, New York, San Francisco, and Seattle.

Emergencies -- Call tel. 911 to report a fire, call the police, or get an ambulance anywhere in the U.S. This is a toll-free call. (No coins are required at public telephones.)

Hospitals -- Hospitals convenient to downtown include Swedish Medical Center, 747 Broadway (tel. 206/386-6000; www.swedish.org), and Virginia Mason Medical Center, 1100 Ninth Ave. (tel. 206/223-6600; www.virginiamason.org).

Insurance -- For information on traveler's insurance, trip cancellation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling, please visit www.frommers.com/planning.

Legal Aid -- While driving, if you are pulled over for a minor infraction (such as speeding), never attempt to pay the fine directly to a police officer; this could be construed as attempted bribery, a much more serious crime. Pay fines by mail, or directly into the hands of the clerk of the court. If accused of a more serious offense, say and do nothing before consulting a lawyer. In the U.S., the burden is on the state to prove a person's guilt beyond a reasonable doubt, and everyone has the right to remain silent, whether he or she is suspected of a crime or actually arrested. Once arrested, a person can make one telephone call to a party of his or her choice. The international visitor should call his or her embassy or consulate.

Mail -- At press time, domestic postage rates were 28¢ for a postcard and 44¢ for a letter. For international mail, a first-class letter of up to 1 ounce costs 98¢ (75¢ to Canada and 79¢ to Mexico); a first-class postcard costs the same as a letter. For more information go to www.usps.com.

If you aren't sure what your address will be in the United States, mail can be sent to you, in your name, c/o General Delivery at the main post office of the city or region where you expect to be. (Call tel. 800/275-8777 for information on the nearest post office.) The addressee must pick up mail in person and must produce proof of identity (driver's license, passport, etc.). Most post offices will hold mail for up to 1 month, and are open Monday to Friday from 8am to 6pm, and Saturday from 9am to 3pm.

Always include zip codes when mailing items in the U.S. If you don't know your zip code, visit www.usps.com/zip4.

Newspapers & Magazines -- The Seattle Times is Seattle's daily newspaper. Seattle Weekly is the city's free arts-and-entertainment weekly.

Packing -- If you've already packed your umbrella in anticipation of your Seattle vacation, you might want to unpack it. No, it's not that I'm predicting sunny weather for your visit. It's just that Seattleites rarely use umbrellas. Sure it rains almost constantly for much of the year, but the rain often falls as little more than a light drizzle. Consequently, you're better off bringing a rain jacket rather than an umbrella. You'll stay dry most of the time, and you'll look more like a native. That jacket, or a sweater, will also come in handy almost any month of the year. Because of the cooling effect of Puget Sound, nights in Seattle can be cool even in the middle of summer. For more helpful information on packing for your trip, download our convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

Police -- To reach the police, dial tel. 911.

Safety -- Although Seattle is a relatively safe city, it has its share of crime. The most questionable neighborhood you're likely to visit is the Pioneer Square area, which is home to more than a dozen bars and nightclubs. By day this area is quite safe (though it has a large contingent of street people), but late at night, when the bars are closing, stay aware of your surroundings and keep an eye out for suspicious characters and activities. Also, take extra precautions with your wallet or purse when you're in the crush of people at Pike Place Market. Whenever possible, try to park your car in a garage at night; if you must park on the street, make sure there are no valuables in view -- or anything that even looks as if it might contain something of worth. I once had my car broken into because I left a shopping bag full of trash on the back seat.

Smoking -- Smoking is banned in public indoor spaces throughout the state of Washington, so don't try lighting up -- even in a bar.

Taxes -- The United States has no value-added tax (VAT) or other indirect tax at the national level. Every state, county, and city may levy its own local tax on all purchases, including hotel and restaurant checks and airline tickets. These taxes will not appear on price tags.

Seattle has a 9.5% sales tax. In restaurants there's an additional .5% food-and-beverage tax. The hotel-room tax in the Seattle metro area ranges from 10% to 16%. On car rentals at Seattle-Tacoma International Airport, you'll pay anywhere from around 50% to as much as 80% in additional taxes and fees (which is why, if you're renting a car, do it at a non-airport location)!

Time -- The continental United States is divided into four time zones: Eastern Standard Time (EST), Central Standard Time (CST), Mountain Standard Time (MST), and Pacific Standard Time (PST). Seattle is in PST. Alaska and Hawaii have their own zones. For example, when it's 9am in Seattle (PST), it's 7am in Honolulu (HST),10am in Denver (MST), 11am in Chicago (CST), noon in New York City (EST), 5pm in London (GMT), and 2am the next day in Sydney.

Daylight saving time (summer time) is in effect from 1am on the second Sunday in March to 1am on the first Sunday in November, except in Arizona, Hawaii, the U.S. Virgin Islands, and Puerto Rico. Daylight saving time moves the clock 1 hour ahead of standard time.

For help with time translations, and more, download our convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

Tipping -- In hotels, tip bellhops at least $1 per bag ($2-$3 if you have a lot of luggage) and tip the chamber staff $1 to $2 per day (more if you've left a big mess for him or her to clean up). Tip the doorman or concierge only if he or she has provided you with some specific service (for example, calling a cab for you or obtaining difficult-to-get theater tickets). Tip the valet-parking attendant $1 every time you get your car.

In restaurants, bars, and nightclubs, tip service staff and bartenders 15% to 20% of the check, tip checkroom attendants $1 per garment, and tip valet-parking attendants $1 per vehicle.

As for other service personnel, tip cab drivers 15% of the fare; tip skycaps at airports at least $1 per bag ($2-$3 if you have a lot of luggage); and tip hairdressers and barbers 15% to 20%.

For help with tip calculations, currency conversions, and more, download our convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

Toilets -- You won't find public toilets or "restrooms" on the streets in most U.S. cities but they can be found in hotel lobbies, bars, restaurants, museums, department stores, railway and bus stations, and service stations. Large hotels and fast-food restaurants are often the best bet for clean facilities. Restaurants and bars in resorts or heavily visited areas may reserve their restrooms for patrons.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

Virtually every air traveler entering the U.S. is required to show a passport. All persons, including U.S. citizens, traveling by air between the United States and Canada, Mexico, Central and South America, the Caribbean, and Bermuda are required to present a valid passport. Note: U.S. and Canadian citizens entering the U. S. at land and sea ports of entry from within the western hemisphere must now also present a passport or other documents compliant with the Western Hemisphere Travel Initiative (WHTI; visit www.getyouhome.gov for details). Children 15 and under may continue entering with only a U.S. birth certificate, or other proof of U.S. citizenship.

Passport Offices

  • Australia -- Australian Passport Information Service (tel. 131-232, or visit www.passports.gov.au).
  • Canada -- Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).
  • Ireland -- Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.foreignaffairs.gov.ie).
  • New Zealand -- Passports Office, Department of Internal Affairs, 47 Boulcott Street, Wellington, 6011 (tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100; www.passports.govt.nz).
  • United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the Identity and Passport Service (IPS), 89 Eccleston Square, London, SW1V 1PN (tel. 0300/222-0000; www.ips.gov.uk).
  • United States -- To find your regional passport office, check the U.S. State Department website (travel.state.gov/passport) or call the National Passport Information Center (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Visas

The U.S. Department of State has a Visa Waiver Program (VWP) allowing citizens of the following countries to enter the United States without a visa for stays of up to 90 days: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Monaco, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, and the United Kingdom. (Note: This list was accurate at press time; for the most up-to-date list of countries in the VWP, consult http://travel.state.gov/visa.) Even though a visa isn't necessary, in an effort to help U.S. officials check travelers against terror watch lists before they arrive at U.S. borders, visitors from VWP countries must register online through the Electronic System for Travel Authorization (ESTA) before boarding a plane or a boat to the U.S. Travelers must complete an electronic application providing basic personal and travel eligibility information. The Department of Homeland Security recommends filling out the form at least 3 days before traveling. Authorizations will be valid for up to 2 years or until the traveler's passport expires, whichever comes first. Currently, there is a $14 fee for the online application. Existing ESTA registrations remain valid through their expiration dates. Note: Any passport issued on or after October 26, 2006, by a VWP country must be an e-Passport for VWP travelers to be eligible to enter the U.S. without a visa. Citizens of these nations also need to present a round-trip air or cruise ticket upon arrival. E-Passports contain computer chips capable of storing biometric information, such as the required digital photograph of the holder. If your passport doesn't have this feature, you can still travel without a visa if the valid passport was issued before October 26, 2005, and includes a machine-readable zone; or if the valid passport was issued between October 26, 2005, and October 25, 2006, and includes a digital photograph. For more information, go to http://travel.state.gov/visa. Canadian citizens may enter the United States without visas, but will need to show passports and proof of residence.

Citizens of all other countries must have (1) a valid passport that expires at least 6 months later than the scheduled end of their visit to the U.S.; and (2) a tourist visa. For information about U.S. Visas go to http://travel.state.gov and click on "Visas." Or go to one of the following websites:

Australian citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information from the U.S. Embassy Canberra, Moonah Place, Yarralumla, ACT 2600 (tel. 02/6214-5600) or by checking the U.S. Diplomatic Mission's website at http://canberra.usembassy.gov/visas.html.

British subjects can obtain up-to-date visa information by calling the U.S. Embassy Visa Information Line (tel. 09042-450-100 from within the U.K. at £1.20 per minute; or tel. 866-382-3589 from within the U.S. at a flat rate of $16 and is payable by credit card only) or by visiting the "Visas to the U.S." section of the American Embassy London's website at http://london.usembassy.gov/visas.html.

Irish citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information through the U.S. Embassy Dublin, 42 Elgin Rd., Ballsbridge, Dublin 4 (tel. 1580-47-VISA [8472] from within the Republic of Ireland at €2.40 per minute; http://dublin.usembassy.gov).

Citizens of New Zealand can obtain up-to-date visa information by contacting the U.S. Embassy New Zealand, 29 Fitzherbert Terrace, Thorndon, Wellington (tel. 644/462-6000; http://newzealand.usembassy.gov).

Customs

Every visitor 21 years of age or older may bring in, free of duty, the following: (1) 1 liter of alcohol; (2) 200 cigarettes, 100 cigars (but not from Cuba); and (3) $100 worth of gifts. These exemptions are offered to travelers who spend at least 72 hours in the United States and who have not claimed them within the preceding 6 months. It is forbidden to bring into the country almost any meat products (including canned, fresh, and dried meat products, such as bouillon and soup mixes). Generally, condiments including vinegars, oils, pickled goods, spices, coffee, tea, and some cheeses and baked goods are permitted. Avoid rice products, as rice can often harbor insects. Bringing fruits and vegetables is prohibited since they may harbor pests or disease. International visitors may carry in or out up to $10,000 in U.S. or foreign currency with no formalities; larger sums must be declared to U.S. Customs on entering or leaving, which includes filing form FinCEN 105. For details regarding U.S. Customs and Border Protection, consult your nearest U.S. embassy or consulate, or U.S. Customs (www.customs.gov).

Medical Requirements

Unless you're arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow fever), inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into the United States.

Staying Connected

Telephones

Many convenience groceries and packaging services sell prepaid calling cards in denominations up to $50. Many public pay phones at airports now accept American Express, MasterCard, and Visa. Local calls made from most pay phones cost either 25¢ or 35¢. Most long-distance and international calls can be dialed directly from any phone. To make calls within the United States and to Canada, dial 1 followed by the area code and the seven-digit number. For other international calls, dial 011 followed by the country code, city code, and the number you are calling.

Calls to area codes 800, 888, 877, and 866 are toll-free. However, calls to area codes 700 and 900 (chat lines, bulletin boards, "dating" services, and so on) can be expensive -- charges of 95¢ to $3 or more per minute. Some numbers have minimum charges that can run $15 or more.

For reversed-charge or collect calls, and for person-to-person calls, dial the number 0 then the area code and number; an operator will come on the line, and you should specify whether you are calling collect, person-to-person, or both. If your operator-assisted call is international, ask for the overseas operator.

For directory assistance ("Information"), dial 411 for local numbers and national numbers in the U.S. and Canada. For dedicated long-distance information, dial 1, then the appropriate area code plus 555-1212.

Mobile Phones

Just because your cellphone works at home doesn't mean it'll work everywhere in the U.S. (thanks to the fragmented cellphone system in the United States). If you live in the U.S., it's a good bet that your phone will work in Arizona's major cities, but take a look at your wireless company's coverage map on its website before heading out; T-Mobile, Sprint, and Nextel are particularly weak in rural areas. (To see where GSM phones work in the U.S., check out www.t-mobile.com/coverage.) If you're visiting from another country, be sure to find out about international calling rates and roaming charges before using your phone in the United States. You could ring up a huge phone bill with just a few calls.

Options for staying connected in the U.S. include renting a mobile phone from a company such as Roberts Rent-A-Phone (tel. 800/964-2468; www.roberts-rent-a-phone.com). However, you can also buy an inexpensive phone and prepaid minutes from such companies as TracFone (www.tracfone.com). These phones are readily available in such stores as Walmart and Target and usually cost less than $20. Prepaid minutes might cost $20 for 60 minutes, though double-minute plans can lower this cost. Another alternative if you are traveling with your laptop computer or have a smart phone is to install Skype (www.skype.com), a VoIP (voice over internet protocol) program/app that allows you to use your computer or smart phone as an internet-based telephone. Doing this allows you to call other Skype users at no charge.

Internet & Wi-Fi

As you might expect from a city that is home to both Microsoft and Amazon, Seattle is wired (and wireless) to the max. If you arrive by plane, you'll immediately find free Wi-Fi at Seattle Tacoma International Airport. Around the airport, you'll also find Internet-enabled phones that allow you to check email and access the Web. These phones charge 35¢ per minute with a $5 minimum. Almost all hotels in the city now offer Wi-Fi in guest rooms, although at the corporate business hotels, you will usually have to pay a daily fee for access. However, at some hotels that charge for access from the guest rooms, there is free Wi-Fi in the lobby. Likewise, espresso bars and cafes all over the city offer Wi-Fi. Among the cafes I frequent are Ancient Grounds, Bauhaus Books & Coffee, Cafe Allegro, Caffe Ladro, Caffé Vita, El Diablo Coffee Co., and Zeitgeist Art/Coffee. There are also computers available at the Seattle Central Library, 1000 Fourth Ave. (tel. 206/386-4636; www.spl.org). For a listing of free Wi-Fi locations, visit www.wififreespot.com.

Tips for Families

When I was a kid, I never wanted to do anything but go to the beach or the lake for family vacations, but if my parents had ever suggested that we take a city vacation, I would have wanted to go someplace like Seattle. This city is jam-packed with fun stuff for kids, whether toddlers or teens. Seattle Center, with the Space Needle, a children's museum and children's theater, a highly interactive science museum, and a combination science-fiction and rock-music museum, is the best place in the city to set the kids free. Then there's the waterfront, with its boat tours, aquarium, and tacky souvenir shops. Of course, you can keep your sports-fan kids happy by getting tickets to a baseball or football game. Kids can even watch salmon climbing a fish ladder and take a tour of the spooky Seattle underground.

Many hotels in Seattle allow kids to stay free in a parent's room; some even allow children to eat for free in the hotel's restaurant. Keep in mind that most downtown hotels cater almost exclusively to business travelers and don't offer the sort of amenities that appeal to families -- like swimming pools, game rooms, or inexpensive restaurants.

Many of Seattle's larger restaurants, especially along the waterfront, offer children's menus. You'll also find plenty of variety and low prices at the many food vendors' stalls at Pike Place Market. And there's a food court in Westlake Center shopping mall.

Note: If you plan to travel on to Canada during your Seattle vacation, be sure to bring your children's passports with you.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Seattle is one of the most gay-friendly cities in the country, with a large gay and lesbian community centered on Capitol Hill. Here in this neighborhood, you'll find numerous bars, nightclubs, stores, and bed-and-breakfasts catering to the gay community.

The first place to look for Seattle information is on the Seattle Convention and Visitors Bureau's LGBT Web pages (www.visitseattle.org/visitors/discover/lgbt-travel.aspx). Once you're in Seattle, pick up a copy of the Seattle Gay News (tel. 206/324-4297; www.sgn.org), available at area bookstores and gay bars and nightclubs.

The Greater Seattle Business Association (GSBA), 400 E. Pine St., Ste. 322 (tel. 206/363-9188; www.thegsba.org), is Seattle's main LGBT business association and publishes a directory of gay-friendly Seattle businesses. This directory is a great resource and can be found wherever you find the Seattle Gay News.

The Lesbian Resource Center, 227 S. Orcas St. (tel. 206/322-3953; www.lrc.net), provides community and business resource information as well as a calendar of upcoming events and activities.

The Gaslight Inn and Bacon Mansion are two gay-friendly bed-and-breakfasts in the Capitol Hill area.

Visitor Information

For more information about Seattle, contact Seattle's Convention and Visitors Bureau, 701 Pike St., Suite 800, (www.visitseattle.org; tel. 866/732-2695 or 206/461-5800). This organization operates the Seattle Visitor Center inside the Washington State Convention Center, Seventh Avenue and Pike Street (tel. 206/461-5840); and the Market Information Center, Southwest Corner of 1st Avenue and Pike Street in the Pike Place Market (tel. 206/461-5840). For additional information on other parts of Washington, contact Washington State Tourism (www.experiencewa.com; tel. 800/544-1800).

One of my favorite Seattle blogs is Seattle Times' columnist Nancy Leson's "All You Can Eat" (http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/allyoucaneat/index.html), which is always full of good, up-to-the-minute restaurant information. Seattle-area restaurants are also the focus of Seattle Metropolitan magazine's Nosh Pit (www.seattlemet.com/blogs/nosh-pit). The friendly innkeepers of the Washington Bed & Breakfast Guild also have an informative blog: http://blog.wbbg.com.

If you want to load up your smart phone with Seattle-specific apps, there are some I recommend. For making restaurant reservations, the OpenTable app, available from the iTunes app store, is invaluable. For Seattle news and entertainment listings, get the Seattle Times mobile app, which will give you access to Nancy Leson's restaurant column while you're on the go. You can also find a list of Frommer's travel apps at www.frommers.com/go/mobile.

Save Cash With a Seattle City Pass

A CityPass (www.citypass.com) is one of the best deals is town. You can visit five popular Seattle destinations for half price (if you take them all in). Better yet, you don’t have to wait in line—this is especially helpful at the Space Needle. The passes will get you into the Space Needle (where general admission is $26 for adults), Seattle Aquarium (general admission $22 for adults), Pacific Science Center, Experience Music Project, an Argosy Cruises harbor tour of Elliott Bay, and the option of either the Museum of Flight or Woodland Park Zoo. A CityPass costs $74 for adults and $49 for kids ages 4 to 12. You can buy them at any of the included attractions, or order them from the website.

Money

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/currency/converter to check up-to-the-minute rates.

Credit cards are the most widely used form of payment in the U.S. It's highly recommended that you travel with at least one major credit card; options include Visa (Barclaycard in Britain), MasterCard (Eurocard in Europe), American Express, Diners Club, and Discover. MasterCard and Visa are the two most commonly accepted credit cards. You must have a credit card to rent a car, and hotels and airlines usually require a credit card imprint as a deposit against expenses.

You can withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, but high fees make credit card cash advances a pricey way to get cash. Keep in mind that you'll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time. Also, note that many banks now assess a 1% to 3% "transaction fee" on all charges you incur abroad (whether you're using the local currency or your native currency).

The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an ATM (automated teller machine), sometimes referred to as a "cash machine" or "cashpoint." The Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (www.visa.com) networks span the country; you can find them even in remote regions. Go to your bank card's website to find ATM locations at your destination. Be sure you know your daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Four-digit PINs work fine in Washington.

In Washington, you'll find ATMs at banks in even the smallest towns. You can also usually find them at gas station minimarts, although these machines usually charge a slightly higher fee than banks. You can sometimes avoid a fee by searching out a small community bank, a savings and loan, or a credit union ATM. To avoid fees, you can also go into a grocery store, make a purchase, and ask for cash back on your debit card.

Beware of hidden credit-card fees while traveling. Check with your credit or debit card issuer to see what fees, if any, will be charged for overseas transactions. Recent reform legislation in the U.S., for example, has curbed some exploitative lending practices. But many banks have responded by increasing fees in other areas, including fees for customers who use credit and debit cards while out of the country -- even if those charges were made in U.S. dollars. Fees can amount to 3% or more of the purchase price. Check with your bank before departing to avoid any surprise charges on your statement.

For help with currency conversions, tip calculations, and more, download Frommer's convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

What will a vacation in Seattle cost? Not as much as a vacation in London, New York, or San Francisco, but if you visit in summer, be prepared to spend $250 or more for an average hotel room. About the cheapest you can get a decent room in summer is around $150, but that won't be downtown. Visit during the rainy season and room rates will be half that. For meals, expect to pay $10 to $15 for breakfast, $15 to $25 for lunch, and $40 to $60 for dinner. Of course, you can eat for much less than this, but at these prices you'll be getting some of the city's more memorable dining experiences.

What Things Cost in Seattle $

Taxi from the airport to downtown Seattle 35.00

Double room, moderate 150.00-250.00

Double room, inexpensive 90.00-150.00

Three-course dinner for one without wine, moderate 30.00-40.00

Pint of beer 4.00-5.00

Cup of coffee 1.50-2.00

Latte 2.50-3.50

1 gallon/1 liter of premium gas 4.00/1.05

Admission to most museums 14.00-18.00

Tips for Senior Travelers

Don't be shy about asking for discounts, but always carry identification, such as a driver's license, that shows your date of birth -- especially if you've kept your youthful glow. In Seattle, tour companies, the Washington State Ferries, and most museums and attractions offer senior discounts. These can add up to substantial savings, but you have to remember to ask.

The U.S. National Park Service offers an America the Beautiful -- National Park and Federal Recreational Lands Pass -- Senior Pass, which gives seniors 62 or older lifetime entrance to all properties administered by the National Park Service -- national parks, monuments, historic sites, recreation areas, and national wildlife refuges -- for a one-time processing fee of $10. Besides free entry, the America the Beautiful Senior Pass also offers a 50% discount on some federal-use fees charged for such facilities as camping, swimming, parking, boat launching, and tours.

Orientation

Downtown Seattle is fairly compact and can be easily navigated on foot, but finding your way by car can be frustrating. Traffic, especially during rush hours, can be a nightmare. Drawbridges, one-way streets, I-5 cutting right through downtown, and steep hills all add up to challenging and confusing driving conditions. Here are some guidelines to help you find your way around.

Main Arteries & Streets

Three interstate highways serve Seattle. Seattle's main artery is I-5, which runs through the middle of the city. Take the James Street exit west if you're heading for the Pioneer Square area, take the Seneca Street exit for Pike Place Market, or take the Olive Way exit for Capitol Hill. I-405 is the city's north-south bypass and travels up the east shore of Lake Washington through Bellevue and Kirkland (Seattle's high-tech corridor). I-90 comes in from the east, crossing one of the city's two floating bridges, and ends at the south end of downtown.

Downtown is roughly defined as extending from the stadium district (just south of the Pioneer Square neighborhood) on the south to Denny Way on the north, and from Elliott Bay on the west to I-5 on the east. Within this area, most avenues are numbered, whereas streets have names. Exceptions to this rule are the first two roads parallel to the waterfront (Alaskan Way and Western Ave.) and avenues east of Ninth Avenue.

Many downtown streets and avenues are one-way. Spring, Pike, and Marion streets are all one-way eastbound, while Seneca, Pine, and Madison streets are all one-way westbound. Second and Fifth avenues are both one-way southbound, while Fourth and Sixth avenues are one-way northbound. First and Third avenues are both two-way streets.

To get from downtown to Capitol Hill, take Pike Street or Olive Way. Madison Street, Yesler Way, or South Jackson Street will get you over to Lake Washington on the east side of Seattle. If you're heading north across town, Westlake Avenue will take you to the Fremont neighborhood, while Eastlake Avenue will take you to the University District. These two roads diverge at the south end of Lake Union. To get to the arboretum from downtown, take Madison Street.

Remembering Seattle's Streets -- Locals use an irreverent little mnemonic device for remembering the names of Seattle's downtown streets, and because most visitors spend much of their time downtown, this phrase could be useful to you as well. It goes like this: "Jesus Christ made Seattle under protest." This stands for all the downtown east-west streets between Yesler Way and Olive Way/Stewart Street -- Jefferson, James, Cherry, Columbia, Marion, Madison, Spring, Seneca, University, Union, Pike, Pine.

Finding an Address

After you become familiar with the streets and neighborhoods of Seattle, there is really only one important thing to remember: Pay attention to the compass point of an address. Most downtown streets have no directional designation attached to them, but once you cross I-5 going east, most streets and avenues are designated "East." South of Yesler Way, which runs through Pioneer Square, streets are designated "South." West of Queen Anne Avenue, streets are designated "West." The University District is designated "NE" (Northeast), and the Ballard neighborhood "NW" (Northwest). So if you're looking for an address on First Avenue South, head south of Yesler Way.

Another helpful hint is that odd-numbered addresses are likely to be on the west and south sides of streets, whereas even-numbered addresses will be on the east and north. Also, in the downtown area, address numbers jump by 100 with each block as you move away from Yesler Way going north or south and as you go east from the waterfront.

Street Maps

If the streets of Seattle seem totally unfathomable to you, rest assured that even longtime residents sometimes have a hard time finding their way around. Don't be afraid to ask directions. You can obtain a free map of the city from the either of the two visitor centers operated by Seattle's Convention and Visitors Bureau (www.visitseattle.org). One of the visitor centers is in the Pike Street lobby of the Washington State Convention Center, and the other is in Pike Place Market at the corner of First Avenue and Pike Street.

You can buy a decent map of Seattle at most convenience stores and gas stations. For a greater selection, stop in at Metsker Maps, 1511 First Ave. (tel. 800/727-4430 or 206/623-8747; www.metskers.com).

If you're a member of AAA, you can get free maps of Seattle and Washington State either at your local AAA office or at the Seattle branch in the University District, 4554 Ninth Ave. NE (tel. 206/633-4222; www.aaawa.com).

When to Go

Let's face it: Seattle's weather has a bad reputation. As they say out here, "The rain in Spain stays mainly in Seattle." I wish I could tell you it isn't so, but I can't. It rains in Seattle -- and rains and rains and rains. However, when December 31 rolls around each year, a funny thing happens: They total up the year's precipitation, and Seattle almost always comes out behind such cities as Washington, Boston, New York, and Atlanta. So it isn't the amount of rain here that's the problem -- it's the number of rainy or cloudy days, which far outnumber those of any of the rainy East Coast cities.

Most of Seattle's rain falls between October and April, so if you visit in the summer, you might not see a drop the entire time. But just in case, you should bring a rain jacket or at least an umbrella. Also, no matter what time of year you plan to visit Seattle, be sure to pack at least a sweater or light jacket. Summer nights can be quite cool, and daytime temperatures rarely climb above the low 80s Fahrenheit (upper 20s Celsius). Winters are not as cold as they are in the East, but snow does fall in Seattle.

Because of the pronounced seasonality of the weather here, people spend as much time outdoors during the summer as they can, and accordingly summer is when the city stages all its big festivals. Because it stays light until 10pm in the middle of summer, it's difficult to get Seattleites indoors to theater or music performances. But when the weather turns wet, Seattleites head for the theaters and performance halls in droves.

Holidays

Banks, government offices, post offices, and many stores, restaurants, and museums are closed on the following legal national holidays: January 1 (New Year's Day), the third Monday in January (Martin Luther King, Jr., Day), the third Monday in February (Presidents' Day), the last Monday in May (Memorial Day), July 4 (Independence Day), the first Monday in September (Labor Day), the second Monday in October (Columbus Day), November 11 (Veterans' Day/Armistice Day), the fourth Thursday in November (Thanksgiving Day), and December 25 (Christmas). The Tuesday after the first Monday in November is Election Day, a federal government holiday in 2012 and in all presidential-election years (held every 4 years).

Getting There

By Plane: Seattle-Tacoma International Airport (Sea-Tac), 17801 International Blvd., Seattle, WA 98158 (www.portseattle.org/sea-tac; tel. 206/787-5388), commonly called “Sea-Tac,” is Washington’s main airport and is served by about 30 national and international airlines. There are direct international flights to many cities, including London, Amsterdam, Paris, Beijing, Tokyo, and Seoul. It's located about 14 miles south of downtown Seattle.

By far the most convenient way to get to downtown Seattle from the airport is by taking Sound Transit’s (www.soundtransit.org) Link Light Rail service, which runs from the airport to the University of Washington with several stops along the way. Trains operate from 5am to 1am Monday through Saturday and 6am to midnight on Sundays, arriving and departing every 7 1/2 to 15 minutes, depending on the time of day. The SeaTac Airport Station, reached by a covered walkway, is located on the fourth floor of the airport garage (follow signs from the terminals). The adult fare from the airport to one of the downtown stops is $2.25–$3.25 (depending on distance); seniors pay $1–$1.75, depending on zones traveled. Buy your ticket from a vending machine on the platform before you board. The trip takes approximately 35 minutes.

It’s slower and far less convenient, but you can also take a bus operated by King County Metro Transit (http://metro.kingcounty.gov) into the city. Sound Transit Metro bus stops are located on International Boulevard (State Hwy. 99) and South 176th Street by the Link Light Rail Station. To reach them, take the walkway through the north end of the fourth floor of the Airport Parking Garage to the Sound Transit Link Light Rail Station and exit to International Boulevard. Departure times are shown on information signs at the bus stop. You also can pick up printed bus timetables at the Ground Transportation Information Booth on the Baggage Claim level near door number 16 (across from baggage carousel 12). Fares are the same as for the Link Light Rail; pay with cash upon boarding, but have the exact fare because drivers do not make change.

By car, the trip to downtown Seattle takes about 30 minutes, depending on traffic. All major rental car agencies have counters in the lower, baggage claim area of the airport.

A metered taxi ride from the airport to downtown Seattle costs approximately $50 to $60. However, many companies now charge a lower fixed rate. Yellow Cab (www.yellowtaxi.net;tel. 206/ 622-6500), available outside the baggage claim area, and Horizon Car Service (www.seattleairport-taxi.com; tel. 206/306-2000) both charge a flat rate of $40 to downtown Seattle.

By Train:

Seattle is served by Amtrak trains (www.amtrak.com) running north from Los Angeles, San Francisco and Portland, south from Vancouver, British Columbia, and points east. Trains arrive and depart from the newly revamped King Street Station, 303 South Jackson St., near the Pioneer Square area of downtown Seattle.By Bus:

Greyhound (www.greyhound.com; tel. 800/345-3109) provides long-distance bus service to Seattle from cities around the U.S. The Seattle Greyhound Station is located in downtown Seattle at 811 Stewart St.

If you’re traveling between Portland and Seattle or Vancouver, BC and Seattle, Bolt Bus (www.boltbus.com; tel. 877/265-8287) offers super-cheap rates and free onboard Wi-Fi. Bolt Bus picks up and deposits passengers on 5th Avenue S. and S. Dearborn St. in the International District, close to the King Street Amtrak station.

By Car:

Seattle is 110 miles (177 km) south of Vancouver, British Columbia; 175 miles (285 km) north of Portland; 810 miles (1,303 km) from San Francisco; 1190 miles (1915 km) from Los Angeles; and 285 miles (459 km) from Spokane.

I-5 is the main north-south artery through Washington, running south to Portland and all the way to San Diego and north to the Canadian border. I-405 is Seattle’s east-side bypass and accesses the cities of Bellevue, Redmond, and Kirkland on the east side of Lake Washington. I-90, which ends at I-5, connects Seattle to Spokane in eastern Washington. Wash. 520 connects I-405 with Seattle just north of downtown and also ends at I-5. Wash. 99, the Alaskan Way Viaduct, is another major north–south highway through downtown Seattle, but it’s slated to be removed (when, no one seems to know; work has been delayed) and replaced by a tunnel.

All the major car-rental agencies have offices in Seattle and at or near Sea-Tac International Airport.

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