Ask any Segoviano where his family goes for cochinillo, and you’ll get a big smile and a rambling reverie about the crackling skin and succulent meat served at this culinary landmark. Simply put, in pig-roasting circles, chef-proprietor José María Ruiz is the man. As a result, you’ll pay a little more for the privilege of eating in the formal white-tablecloth interior dining room, but if you’re going to “pig out,” it might as well be on the best. Ruiz also excels at roast suckling lamb (cordero lechal asado). To the (mock) horror of Spanish dining purists used to overcooked green beans and canned artichokes, he also invents entire dishes to highlight seasonal vegetables.