Planning a trip to Sicily

Regions in Brief

Palermo

The capital of Sicily is also the island's largest city. It's crowded, loud, and very unkempt in most areas, and driving in the city can take 10 years off your life. But outstanding artistic and architectural gems, such as the Norman Palace, the Palatine Chapel, and the Quattro Canti, convey the elegance and grandeur that once reigned here and show how Sicily was a crossroads for many different cultures. The three historical markets -- Capo, Vucciria, and Ballarò -- give you an inside peek at everyday life in the city. Not too distant from the center of Sicily you can have sweeping views of the city from Monte Pellegrino, or head to the beach in Mondello. A short distance away lies Monreale, with its exquisite cathedral adorned with some of the best mosaics in the western world.

The West

The Arabs called the area Val di Mazara, and it is emphatically wine, salt, and olive country. The world famous Alcamo wine is produced in and around the town of Alcamo, and the equally famous sweet Marsala wine is made in and around the city of the same name. The prized olives grown in the area are used to make some of the best olive oils in the world, and sea salt is still harvested as it was in Carthaginian times using centuries-old windmills. The waters along the coast are crystalline and have either rocky (Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro) or sandy (San Vito Lo Capo) shores, and the town of Mazara del Vallo is one of the fishing capitals of Italy. And, yes, the region does have its fair share of history and monuments as well: The Doric temple and Greek Theater of Segesta, the ruins of Selinunte, and the Carthaginian stronghold of Motya, to name just a few.

Central Sicily

This is about as close as you'll ever get to Sicily as it once was, when back in the times of The Leopard in the mid-1800s (pre-Unification in 1860) the economy of the island was based on agriculture. The rolling hills with wheat fields, the endless fruit orchards, and citrus groves are still here, along with the centuries-old stone farmhouses and castles on top of isolated hills. The ones in Mussomeli and Caccamo are exceptional, while the one in Enna, the highest provincial capital in Italy, commands views over the entire island. Sutera, at the base of a lone hill, is picturesque. The Madonie Mountains are the highest on the island and feel more Alpine than Mediterranean.

The Southern Coast

The southern coast, known for fishing and agriculture, is an area that has some of the most stunning landscapes on the island. As you wind your way down the coastal road you'll encounter vineyards, citrus orchards, wheat fields, and the odd sheepherder or two who sees nothing wrong with leading his flocks along state roads. As can be expected, the beaches are sandy and go on forever, with the one extraordinary exception of the Scala dei Turchi, a white, rippled limestone and clay cliff carved by the elements. History surely left its mark here, exemplified by the Valley of the Temples in Agrigento and in other Greek colonies such as Eraclea Minoa and Gela, though, sadly, the latter is in poor condition. Punctuating the hilltops and coastlines are castles, such as the ones in Caltabellotta and Falconara, near Butera.

The Northeast

This verdant area with lush forests carpeting the Nebrodi mountains and its hidden villages gives you the feeling that time has stopped, but for all the sleepiness there is one town that's always hopping: The incomparable Taormina, once the playground of the jet set. It's also the gateway to the island (Messina) and was the place where the first Greeks colonized Sicily (Naxos).

Mount Etna

Overshadowing the eastern areas and visible from as far away as Erice and Calabria on the mainland, Europe's highest (over 3,000m/9,843 ft.) and most active volcano has determined the history, architecture, and agriculture of its environs for centuries, if not millennia: The cooled lava has been used to rebuild many of the cities after earthquakes, and the lava-rich soil produces the blood-red oranges that are unique to this part of the island. Thick vegetation surrounds the foothills, creating a microclimate of flora not seen anywhere else in Sicily. Treks up to the craters are possible, depending on weather and volcanic activity; dress warmly, even in summer. In 2019, Etna erupted, creating an earthquake in Catania that killed 4 people. Check safety warnings before venturing out for a tour of its flanks.

Catania

The second-largest city in Sicily is more industrialized than Palermo; some say that its proximity to the mainland is the reason. There's no denying that Catania is loud and brash. Old Catania still lives on in places such as the daily fish market. Its architecture is certainly homogeneous: Literally forced to rebuild from the ground up after a devastating earthquake in 1693, it developed its own twist on the baroque, the Late Sicilian Baroque, which defines not only Catania but all of southeastern Sicily. The Roman Amphitheater and Odeon are vestiges of Roman domination, but it's the harmonious style of the buildings post-earthquake that define the city. Worth visiting also are Sant'Alfio, to see the oldest tree in continental Europe, and Bronte, to taste the delectable pistachios.

The Southeast

This area is different from the rest of the island, and what has come to be known as "Ragusashire" is a territory of plateaus where the sheep and cows graze on its green pastures, even in summer, so it's no wonder it has become the dairy capital of Sicily. Delicacies like the sharp caciocavallo or smoked ragusano have earned government DOP status (Denomination of Protected Origin) to safeguard the quality and the heritage of the products. Chocolate in Modica is still made artisanally; a typical variety is chocolate with chili pepper. Wines and other delights are typical of the area; the city of Avola is known for its wine and almonds. In this area the mighty Syracuse, the rival of the Greek capital, Athens, developed and prospered, and the ruins are a testament to its former greatness; the Greek Theater was considered the most prominent cultural venue in Greater Greece. The southeast is also the capital of the Sicilian Baroque style, and the Val di Noto has been granted Unesco World Heritage status for its unique post-seismic architecture.

The Islands

Even an island can have its own islands. Mostly of volcanic origin, they are the hotspots to visit during the summer, owing to their sparkling blue or green seas and uncontaminated beaches. They are a nature-lover's paradise, with protected marine reserves (Ustica) and designated beaches for the sea turtles to lay their eggs (Lampedusa), luring visitors like the call of a siren. The earliest traces of Sicilian history are found on the Aeolian and Egadi islands, while Pantelleria, with a feel more African than Italian, offers culinary delights such as capers and the sweet Passito wine.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Many establishments and hotels offer discounts for seniors. In most cities, people over the age of 60 qualify for reduced admission to theaters, museums, and other attractions, as well as discounted fares on public transportation. National and regional museums only offer discounts to seniors who are citizens of the E.U., however.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

If you're coming from the U.S., Canada, Australia, or New Zealand, you must have a valid passport issued by your home country. Upon arrival, the border police will stamp it as proof of entry. Insist on getting one should there not be anyone on duty -- it's your only proof of entry to Italy (plane tickets, even if they show departure dates, are not considered official documents).

E.U. citizens can enter with passports or valid government-issued identification.

Visas

Visas are not required for stays up to 90 days. For non-E.U. citizens expecting to stay more than 90 days, visit the Italian State Police website, www.poliziadistato.it, for detailed information; there is a section entirely in English that explains how to obtain a Permesso di Soggiorno (permission of stay) and what visa requirements are mandatory. For further information, contact the nearest Italian embassy or consulate in your country.

Customs

What You Can Take Home from Sicily -- For information on what you're allowed to bring home, contact one of the following agencies:

U.S. Citizens: U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP; www.cbp.gov).

Canadian Citizens: Canada Border Services Agency (www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: HM Customs & Excise (www.hmce.gov.uk).

Australian Citizens: Australian Customs Service (www.customs.gov.au).

New Zealand Citizens: New Zealand Customs (www.customs.govt.nz).

Escorted & Package Tours

Escorted General Interest Tours

Other factors to consider when choosing an escorted tour are the expected size of the group, and the demographics. There is better interaction and cohesion in a smaller group, while large groups are a little impersonal -- and there's always someone who's bound to get lost and hold up the bus. Ask specifically to whom a certain type of tour is aimed -- a couple on their honeymoon, for example, might not want to be on a busload of families with rowdy children.

The following are a list of reputable tour operators that have a wide range of tours to Sicily, for every budget.

Experience Sicily (www.experiencesicily.com) are highly immersive, small tours from a company with a real depth of expertise (they ONLY do tours to this region of Italy). Many tours have themes, like cooking or small-town life. The company can also put together custom itineraries for individuals hoping to travel independently, but with support.

Globus and Cosmos Tours are large, multi-national operations that cover the globe, with Globus (tel. 800/338-7092; www.globusandcosmos.com) catering more to the budget-conscious traveler. Quality can vary greatly on these tours, but the prices are usually quite good.

Another choice is Insight Vacations (tel. 800/582-8380; www.insightvacations.com), which offers several fast-paced itineraries in Sicily, some with options to visit regions of Southern Italy and Malta, too. For a truly cultural immersion Smithsonian Journeys (tel. 855/330-5158; www.smithsonianjourneys.com), in conjunction with the Smithsonian Institution, offers tours of the island aimed at better understanding the art and history of Sicily, with lectures held by local experts in the field.

For more options, including walking, biking and other specialty tours, look at such marketplace sites as TourRadar or StrideTravel.

Packages for the Independent Traveler

Package tours can be as basic as air travel and hotel to an all-inclusive package that may include meals, guided tours, transfers to and from airports, and so on. While on the one hand everything is planned out and (hopefully) sorted for you from beginning to end, on the other it allows minimum flexibility, which is something to think about if you are an adventure-seeker and like to decide on your sleeping accommodations as you go along. If basing your choices on price range, search engines will often show you very different packages for the same price, but analyze carefully: If one package includes a flight with lots of connections to your destination but a very good three star hotel, another may offer a direct flight but an absolute rat hole as a hotel room. Read the fine print carefully about what's included in the package. If you need specific accommodations (an extra bed in the room or a bathroom that allows wheelchair accessibility) request it, and get it in writing. Check what their policy is regarding cancellation fees: A dirt-cheap package almost always offers no cancellation refund while more expensive ones might allow some compensation.

Sometimes you may need to look no further than the airline companies themselves to book a package tour. All the major online travel companies such as Expedia (www.expedia.com), Travelocity (www.travelocity.com), and edreams (www.edreams.com) have packages to suit all ranges.

Tips for Women Travelers

Travel to Sicily for women is safe, but do take necessary precautions. You will encounter at least once along your journey a flirtatious man who wants to be "helpful" to foreign ladies. Though most of the time they mean well, use your best judgment when dealing with complete strangers. Sexual assaults are rare, and harassment is almost always limited to a wolf's whistle.

Money

The currency used in Italy is the euro, whose official abbreviation is EUR. The symbol of the euro is a stylized E: €.

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency, euros. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.xe.com to check up-to-the-minute rates. The price of meals at a trattoria serving home-cooked meals is much more affordable than in New York or London (expect to pay no more than 20€ to 30€ for a full meal for two). Bus fares in Palermo are the most expensive in Italy although, at 1.30€, U.K. visitors will find them very reasonable in comparison to prices at home.

ATMs

The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an ATM (automated teller machine). ATMs are found in all Sicilian cities, towns, and villages that have a bank. Be sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) before you leave home and be sure to find out your daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Also keep in mind that many banks impose a fee every time a card is used at a different bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more) than for domestic ones. On top of this, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank. That being said, the fees will ALWAYS be less than those of international currency exchange stores.

NEVER get cash advances on your credit card at an ATM. Credit card companies will charge interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time, making this a very pricey way to get cash.

Important note: Make sure that the PINs on your bank cards and credit cards will work in Sicily. You'll need a four-digit code (six digits won't work).

Credit & Debit Cards

Credit and debit cards are a safe way to carry money. They generally offer relatively good exchange rates.

Keep in mind that when you use your credit card abroad, most banks apply a 2% fee above the 1% fee charged by Visa, MasterCard, or American Express for currency conversion on credit charges. But credit cards are still the smart way to go when you realize the reason pickpockets target tourists is that they carry too much cash on their person. Credit cards can be replaced; cash can't be.

In Sicily, the most commonly accepted credit cards are MasterCard and Visa. Of secondary importance are American Express and Diners Club.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Sicily was almost always off-limits to travelers with disabilities. However, new laws require establishments to have bathrooms and other areas in order to facilitate wheelchair access, and more and more B&Bs are refurbishing and keeping the needs of the differently abled in mind. Most buses are now equipped to accommodate a wheelchair, as are the newer trains, but many historical sites are still inaccessible, such as Erice or Segesta. On this website, wheelchair accessible sites will be pointed out.

We recommend that those with disabilities consider visiting Sicily on an organized tour specifically geared to provide assistance, which is vitally needed.

Health & Safety

In general, Sicily is viewed as a "low-risk" destination, although problems, of course, can and do occur anywhere. You don't need to get vaccines; foodstuffs are safe; and tap water in all cities and towns is potable. If you are traveling around Sicily over the summer, limit your exposure to the sun, especially during the first few days, and thereafter until 11 am and then from 4 pm. Use a sunscreen with a high protection factor and apply it liberally. Remember to apply it repeatedly to children. Not only will you prevent sunburn you'll also avoid heatstroke -- two things that can land you immediately at the hospital.

If You Get Sick

In case of emergency, dial tel. 113 for the police, or tel. 112 for the Carabinieri (military police): They can call an ambulance or help you in many ways. If your situation is life-threatening, go to the pronto soccorso (emergency ward) at the local hospital.

Many doctors in Sicily understand English to some degree. If you get sick, your hotel concierge will call or recommend a doctor. Another option is to go to the guardia medica (doctor on duty) or the guardia medica turistica at vacation resorts.

Under the Italian national healthcare system, you're eligible only for free emergency care. If you're admitted to a hospital as an in-patient, you're required to pay (unless you're a resident of the EEA). You're also required to pay for follow-up care. If you do end up paying for healthcare, some health insurance plans will cover at least part of the hospital visits and procedures. Be prepared to pay the bills up front, however. Once you've filed all the necessary paperwork back home, you'll be refunded.

Before leaving home, find out what medical services your health insurance covers. To protect yourself, consider buying medical travel insurance.

Crime & Safety

Contrary to popular culture spawned by urban legends, you will not come face-to-face with a Mafioso during your visit. There is, however, a better chance that you might encounter pickpockets, thieves, and purse-snatchers. Although most tourists have trouble-free visits to Sicily each year, the principal tourist areas have been experiencing an increase in crime. Palermo and Catania, in particular, have reported growing incidents of muggings and attacks. Criminals frequent tourist areas and major attractions such as museums, monuments, restaurants, hotels, beach resorts, trains, train stations, airports, subways, and ATMs. Travelers should exercise caution, carry limited cash and credit cards, and leave extra cash, credit cards, passports, and personal documents in a safe location. Crimes have occurred at all times of day and night. Sexual assaults are rare but do take necessary precautions -- use a taxi at night to take you back to your hotel and don't accept rides from locals who seem "nice." If you feel threatened don't be afraid to shout and cause a scene to attract attention. It works as an excellent deterrent.

Drivers should be cautious about accepting help from anyone other than a uniformed police officer, Carabiniere, Finanziere (finance & revenue police, who often do random roadside checks on major roadways), or Municipal police.

The loss or theft abroad of a passport should be reported immediately to the local police and the nearest embassy or consulate.

Staying Connected

Every hotel in Sicily offers Wi-Fi, usually for free. Many cafes offer this convenience as well.

Phoning Sicily

To call Sicily from the United States, dial the international prefix, tel. 011; then Italy's country code, 39; and then the area code (for example, 091 for Palermo or 095 for Catania), which is now built into every number. Then dial the actual phone number. To call the United States and Canada from Sicily, dial tel. 001, then the area code, then the number. To place a local call, the number must always be preceded by the area code.

When to Go

April to early June and late September to October are the best times to visit, as the temperatures are not as sweltering as they are in the summer. However, April to June are the months when school buses packed with children visit the most important sites. Easter is considered high season.

The real tourist boom picks up in mid-June, when schools are closed. From July to mid-September, the coastal areas are crammed. Unless you plan to spend time at a seaside resort or on an island, avoid August if you can: The heat is unbearable and most establishments in the cities are closed.

From late October to mid-December, things are quieter, there are fewer tourists in the cities; sites and attractions do tend to close earlier. Things pick up again briefly during the Christmas holidays (Dec 20-Jan 7), when many shops and museums have extended hours. Otherwise, between November and February, hotels and restaurants in resort towns are closed, and the temperatures take a plunge, especially in the mountainous areas.

High season on most airline routes to Sicily usually stretches from June to the beginning of September and around holiday periods (Christmas and Easter). Shoulder season is from April to May and from early September to October; low season is from November 1 to December 19 and from mid-January to March.

Weather

Sicily enjoys a relatively mild climate; high temperatures begin in May, often lasting until sometime in October. While the summers can be very hot and dry, the spring and winter months often bring on torrential rains. Surprisingly, even Sicily has its cold waves in winter, with temperatures falling below zero, especially inland. As of late, it's not been uncommon to see minimal snowfall in Palermo.

Although humidity is not stifling, save for the big cities, there is one element that can be brutal: the wind. Being surrounded by three seas Sicily is exposed to all of them, from the scorching sirocco from the Sahara or the blustery north winds that cause trees to uproot and do serious damage.

Tips on Accommodations

A note on swimming pools: When booking a hotel, especially in summer, don't automatically assume that just because it has a pool you'll be able to lounge around poolside all day long. Many hotels and agriturismi are popular venues for weddings, which means holding a poolside reception in the warmer months is often the norm, therefore inconveniencing hotel clients who choose the hotel purposely for the pool facilities. If in doubt, call or e-mail first, and then make your final decision.

Fast Facts

Area Code -- Dial tel. 011, then the country code for Italy (39), and then the city code (for example, 091 for Palermo or 095 for Catania). Then dial the specific phone number. To call abroad from Italy, dial the specific country code (001 U.S. and Canada, 0044 U.K., 0061 Australia, 0064 New Zealand), then dial the area code and number.

Business Hours -- Regular business hours are generally Monday to Saturday 8 or 9am to 1pm and 4 or 5 to 7 or 9pm. The riposo (mid-afternoon siesta) is observed in Sicily, though the shops on main thoroughfares in the big cities (Via Ruggero Settimo in Palermo and Via Etnea in Catania) stay open through lunchtime. Shops are also generally open the first Sunday of the month. If you're on the island in summer, when the heat is intense, you too may want to observe the custom of riposo, retreating back to your hotel for a long nap during the hottest part of the day. Banking hours vary from town to town, but in general are Monday to Friday 8:30am to 1:20pm and 3 to 4pm.

Drinking Laws -- In the last few years Italy has toughened up on the sale of alcohol to minors, as teenage drinking has become a nationwide problem. It is illegal to serve or sell alcoholic beverages to minors under the age of 16, though many establishments do not enforce this rule.

Drugstores/Pharmacies -- Opening hours are usually from 8:30am to 1:30pm and from 4 or 5 to 8pm. Every farmacia (drugstore) posts a list of those that are on duty during afternoon closing hours, at night, and during the weekend and holidays. Over-the-counter medicines are also available at parafarmacie, which have a blue cross to distinguish them from pharmacies (green cross).

Electricity -- The electricity in Sicily varies considerably. It's usually alternating current (AC); the cycle is 50Hz 220V. Check the local current at the hotel where you're staying. I recommend obtaining a transformer if you're carrying any electrical appliances. Plugs have 2 or 3 prongs that are round, not flat; therefore, an adapter plug is also needed.

Embassies & Consulates -- There's a U.S. Consular Agency at Via Vaccarini 1, in Palermo (tel. 091-305857), while the U.S. Embassy is in Rome at Via Veneto 121 (tel. 06-46741).

The Canadian Embassy is at Via Zara 30, in Rome (tel. 06-854441).

There's a U.K. Consulate at Via Cavour 117, in Palermo (tel. 091-326412), and a U.K. Embassy at Via XX Settembre 80A, in Rome (tel. 06-422-00001).

The Irish Embassy is at Piazza di Campitelli 3, in Rome (tel. 06-697-9121). For consular queries, call tel. 06-697-9121.

The Australian Embassy is at Via Antonio Bosio 15, in Rome (tel. 06-852-721). The New Zealand Embassy is at Via Zara 28, in Rome (tel. 06-441-7171).

Emergencies -- For a general crisis dial the police at tel. 113 or the Carabinieri (army police corps) at tel. 112; for an ambulance, tel. 118; and to report a fire, tel. 115. To report a forest fire dial tel. 1515, and for distress at sea call tel. 1530. For road assistance, dial tel. 803116.

Holidays -- Offices, banks, and shops in Sicily are closed on the following national holidays: January 1 (New Year's Day); January 6 (Epiphany); Easter and Easter Monday; April 25 (Liberation Day); May 1 (Labor Day); June 2 (Republic Day); August 15 (Assumption of the Virgin); November 1 (All Saints' Day); December 8 (Feast of the Immaculate Conception), December 25 (Christmas Day); and December 26 (Saint Stephen). Offices and shops are also generally closed on the day dedicated to a city or town's patron saint. Before a major holiday banks are often open only in the morning, closing before noon. Transportation is either on a reduced schedule or suspended altogether.

Language -- Except in remote backwaters, Italian, of course, is the language of the land. English is often understood at attractions such as museums and at most hotels and restaurants, especially in larger cities where there is a great influx of foreign visitors. Even if no one speaks English, with a good amount of pointing and gesticulating you'll make yourself understood. Most islanders also speak a Sicilian dialect, which is considered by some experts to be a distinct Romance language. It is an idiom composed of words and grammar structures left over from various conquerors, including Arabic, Greek, French, and Spanish, as well as elements absorbed into the vernacular after the American occupation.

Legal Aid -- The consulate of your country is the place to turn to for legal advice, although offices can't interfere in the Italian legal process. They can, however, inform you of your rights and provide a list of attorneys. You'll have to pay for the attorney out of your pocket -- there's no free legal assistance. If you're arrested for a drug offense, about all the consulate will do is notify a lawyer about your case and perhaps inform your family. If the problem is serious enough, most nationals will be referred to their embassies or consulates in Rome.

Mail & Post Offices -- Mail delivery is infamously bad, and central post offices in big cities are a veritable competition of the survival of the fittest, especially at the beginning of the month, when customers start gathering outside at the crack of dawn just to secure a place in line for postal services. Although you most likely won't be paying bills or receiving your pension -- the main reason why post offices are so crowded -- even simple things like parcel-shipping or buying stamps may require a frustratingly long wait. You are better off buying stamps at tabacchi (tobacco shops), even though they might not always be stocked.  To locate the nearest post office and other information visit www.posteitaliane.it.

Newspapers & Magazines -- In major cities, most newsagents often carry English-language newspapers and magazines -- your best bet is to head to newsagents at the main railway stations, as they are well-stocked with international reading matter. There are no English-language magazines or newspapers published in Sicily.

Safety -- Despite what stereotyping and urban legends would lead you to believe, you won't be shaken down by any mafiosi, since the Mafia is virtually invisible to tourists. That's not to say however that there aren't shady types who like to improvise the part in the hopes of gouging naive tourists. Before agreeing to use a service always ask, "Quanto costa?" (How much does it cost?), and get a clear price -- if the response is "Non ti preoccupare!" (Don't worry!), walk away; often that's the code word for "I'll take you to the cleaners." Pickpockets operate in crowded areas and on buses, while juvenile delinquents whizzing by on scooters won't think twice about knocking you down in an attempt to snatch your purse or valuables -- regrettably Palermo, Messina, and Catania are full of them, and they often prey on tourists. Avoid walking alone at night, and even in the daytime be aware when walking in seedy areas. Never leave valuables in a car, even if they're well hidden, and never travel with your car unlocked. If your window is rolled down, keep valuables out of sight.

Smoking -- In 2005 Italy launched one of Europe's toughest laws against smoking in public places, including bars and restaurants. All restaurants and bars come under the ruling except those with ventilated smoking rooms. Smokers face fines if caught lighting up. While outdoor bars and restaurants will allow smoking, it might bother your fellow diners; always ask if you can light up. Cigar smoking is usually frowned upon.

Taxes -- As a member of the European Union (E.U.), Italy imposes a value-added tax (called IVA in Italy) on most goods and services. The tax that most affects visitors is the one imposed on hotel rates, which ranges from 9% in first- and second-class hotels to 19% in deluxe hotels.

Non-E.U. citizens are entitled to a refund of the IVA if they spend more than 155€ at any one store, before tax. For more information on the procedure, visit www.globalrefund.com. Many shops are now part of the "Tax Free for Tourists" network (look for the sticker in the window). After you have the invoice stamped at Customs, you can redeem the check for cash directly at the Tax Free booth in the airport at Palermo or Catania, or mail it back in the envelope provided within 60 days.

Theft -- Be sure to inform all of your credit card companies the minute you discover your wallet has been lost or stolen; keep the emergency contact numbers found on the back of the card together with other emergency numbers. Your credit card company or insurer may also require you file a police report and provide a report number or record of the loss. Some credit card companies may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately; check if this option is available with your company before leaving. The emergency number for Visa in Italy is tel. 800-819. American Express cardholders should call collect tel. 06/7220-348, or contact an American Express office in Sicily . MasterCard holders should call tel. 800-870-866. Before you begin your trip, inform your credit card company that you will be using your card overseas.

Before traveling abroad it's a good idea to make a color photocopy of your passport and keep it separate from other documents (it's also a good idea to leave a copy back home with a trusted person). The same goes for your driver's license, especially if you intend on renting a car. Note: By Italian law you are required to have ID with you at all times. You cannot use a photocopy of your driver's license when driving. If you're afraid of losing your documents, make a photocopy of your ID for non-official business (write the name and phone number of the place you are staying at on the photocopy, if stopped by a police officer or Carabiniere he/she might request to see the original).

Time Zone -- Sicily is at GMT+1, that is 6 hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time in the United States. Daylight saving time goes into effect in Italy each year from the end of March to the end of October.

Tipping -- In hotels, the service charge of 15% to 19% is already added to your bill. In addition, it's customary to tip the chambermaid 1€ per day, the doorman (for calling a cab) 1€, and the bellhop or porter 1€ to 2€ for carrying bags to your room. The concierge expects about 15% of his or her bill, as well as tips for extra services performed, which may include help with long-distance calls. In expensive hotels, these amounts are often doubled.

In restaurants and cafes, 10% to 15% is usually added to your bill as a service and cover charge. If you're not sure whether this has been done, ask, "È incluso il servizio?" (eh een-cloo-soh eel ser-vee-tsyoh?). An additional tip isn't expected, but it's nice to leave the equivalent of an extra couple of dollars if you're pleased with the service. If you feel you got bad service, do not feel compelled to leave a tip, even if the waiter starts to grumble. Restaurants are required by law to give customers official receipts (ricevuta fiscale), itemizing everything ordered. Checkroom attendants expect 1€; washroom attendants, .50€.

Taxi drivers expect 10% to 15% of the fare, but if you feel you've been overcharged or the driver was discourteous, you don't need to tip.

Toilets -- All airport and rail stations have toilets, often with attendants who expect to be tipped. Many large rail stations apply a mandatory entrance fee (usually 1 €). Having hand sanitizers and pre-moistened tissues with you is a good idea. Public toilets are also found near many of the major sights. Usually they're designated WC (water closet), bagno (bath), donne (women), or uomini (men). The most confusing designation is Signori (gentlemen) and Signore (ladies), so watch that final i and e! Tip: if you happen to be around town and are desperate, head for the nearest department store -- you're bound to find a restroom there.

Water -- Most Sicilians have mineral water with their meals. Tap water is normally potable everywhere, including at public drinking fountains. Unsafe sources will be marked ACQUA NON POTABILE. Some cities along the southern coast get their water supply exclusively from a sea-water desalinator, making it non-potable. It's always good to ask first; if in doubt, stick to bottled water, even for cooking.

Getting Around

By Plane

There are domestic flights from Palermo to the Pélagie Islands (Lampedusa and Linosa), and from Trapani to the island of Pantelleria. The flights last about 30 minutes.

By Train

All major Sicilian cities such as Palermo, Catania, Messina, Syracuse, Agrigento, Taormina, and Trapani have good rail links. A single ticket can be bought up to 2 months before scheduled travel. Eurail passes are honored on trains around the island, but don't waste money on a first-class pass if you intend on using it just in Sicily -- few trains have first-class carriages.

Trains are operated by Trenitalia (or Ferrovie dello Stato (FS)), the Italian State Railways (tel. 892021 from Italy; from other countries tel. 06-68475475; www.trenitalia.com). Train fares are generally very affordable. Children ages 4 to 11 receive a discount of 50% off the adult fare, and children 3 and younger travel free with a parent. Second-class travel usually costs about two-thirds the price of an equivalent first-class trip.

InterCity trains (designated IC on train schedules) are modern, air-conditioned, limited-stop trains and you have to pay an often heavy supplement; a second-class IC ticket can provide a first-class experience. In Sicily, ICs run only between Messina and Palermo and Messina and Catania.

Slower Sicilian trains -- called Diretto, Espresso, and Interregionale -- stop at major towns or cities. A Regionale train (sometimes known as the Locale), stops in every hamlet and takes forever, but some experienced travelers insist that it's part of the charm.

Before booking check if your ticket requires paying a supplement for express or InterCity trains. Prices are also determined by the route -- for example, from Palermo to Catania it will be cheaper cutting inland via Caltanissetta/Enna than from Messina.  If you're under the age of 26 or over 60 and plan to use the train extensively you might want to consider purchasing a Carta Verde or a Carta Argento. The Carta Verde is available to youths between 12 and 26 years of age. It offers a 10% discount on all national trains (including couchettes) and up to 25% off international travel. The Carta Argento, designed for senior travelers, offers a 15% discount on all trains and up to 25% off international travel.

By Bus

Buses are becoming the travel means of choice in Sicily, as numerous train stations on the island are closing due to downsizing and general lack of interest by the regional government. Bus fares are generally less than train tickets and are even cheaper when a round trip ticket is bought.

AST (tel. 848-000323; www.aziendasicilianatrasporti.it) has the largest network on the island. SAIS (tel. 091-616028 in Palermo, or 095-536168 in Catania; www.saisautolinee.it), offers a service from Palermo to Messina, Enna, Catania, and Syracuse. Interbus (tel. 094-2625301; www.interbus.it) has service between the cities of Catania, Messina, Taormina, and Syracuse. Salemi (tel. 092-3981120; www.autoservizisalemi.it) links Palermo to western Sicily (Trapani and Marsala). For all bus links, visit www.regione.sicilia.it/turismo/trasporti. In large cities, most buses stop at the main train station.

Sundays have a reduced service, and the bus can be packed with students traveling back to the big cities. Holidays often have a reduced service or don't operate at all.

Tickets for intercity services are most often purchased right on the bus. However, in some instances, for example, from Palermo to Trapani or vice versa, you have to book a ticket in advance at one of the local bus offices. Note: both tickets bought on-board and booked tickets are non-refundable.

Tickets for city buses are bought before boarding at ticket booths, tabacchi (tobacco shops), and newsagents, and must be validated once you get on, or else you'll be fined if stopped by a bus controller. If the validating machine is not working, notify the driver immediately.

In Palermo and Catania you can purchase a 24-hour bus ticket that can save you money if you plan to use the bus network extensively.

By Car

For U.K. and European drivers, full driving licenses are valid for Sicily. U.S. and Canadian drivers are required to have an International Driving Permit (IDP) to drive a rented or private car in Italy. You can apply for an IDP at any AAA or CAA branch. You must be at least 18 and have two 2*2-inch (4cm x 5cm) photos and a photocopy of your U.S. driver's license with your AAA application form. Remember that an International Driver's License is valid only if physically accompanied by your original driver's license and only if signed on the back.

Rentals -- Many of the loveliest parts of Sicily are only reachable by car. Be prepared however to experience some of the most aggressive and daredevil maneuvers in the western world. Sicilian drivers have road rules of their own, and everyone has the right of way.

To rent a car in Sicily, a driver must have a valid driver's license, a valid passport, and must be (in most cases) more than 25 years old. Insurance is compulsory, though any reputable rental firm will arrange it in advance before you're even given the keys. It is generally cheaper to make arrangements for car rentals before you leave home. Of course, you can also rent a car once you arrive in Sicily, although the rates will be higher. The price can vary greatly depending on the vehicle, the average rental on the island costs from 80€ to 120€ per day, cheaper if rented weekly or longer. All of the usual rental car agencies operate in Sicily. To find a discounted rate, try the website AutoSlash.

Fuel -- Benzina (gasoline/petrol) is expensive in Sicily. In today's uncertain economy, prices can change from week to week, even day to day. Gas stations on the autostrade are open 24 hours, but stations on regular roads are rarely open on Sunday; also, many close from noon to 3pm for lunch, and most shut down after 7pm. Almost all stations have self-service. Make sure the pump registers zero before an attendant starts refilling your tank. A popular scam in Sicily is to fill your tank before resetting the meter, so you pay not only your bill but also the charges run up by the previous motorist.

Driving Rules -- Driving is on the right; passing is on the left. In cities and towns, the speed limit is 50 kmph (31 mph). For all cars and motor vehicles on main roads and local roads, the limit is 90 kmph (56 mph). For the autostrade, the limit is 130 kmph (81 mph). Use the left lane only for passing. If a driver zooms up behind you on the autostrada with his or her lights on (or honking away), that's your sign to get out of the way. Use of seat belts is compulsory and using a cell phone while driving is illegal. Don't be surprised to see children sitting in the front seat or in the laps of their parents when driving -- child seats are considered by most here to be "unnecessary."

Sicilian Roads -- The autostrade are not as extensive on Sicily as they are on the Italian mainland. The most traveled route is the A19 between Palermo and Catania, a convenient link between the island's two major cities. The other oft-traveled route is the A20 going between Palermo and Messina. The A18 links Messina and Catania on the eastern coast, whereas the A29 goes from Palermo to Mazara del Vallo to the south, with a detour to Trapani.

Sicily has nowhere near the burdensome tolls of mainland Italy, but there are some: For example, taking the autostrada from Messina to Catania costs several euros. Unless you're traveling from city to city, you'll use the state roads, or Strade statali, single-lane, and toll-free routes. To reach remote villages, you'll sometimes find yourself going along a country lane and watching out for goats. These are the bona-fide scenic routes, with roads sometimes just steps away from the shore.

By Taxi

Taxi rates vary from town to town, but in general are very pricey. There are supplements from 10pm to 7am, Sundays and on holidays. Depending on the size of the taxi, four or as many as five passengers are allowed. Taxis are found at all airport arrival terminals; always ask how much the tariff to your destination is -- there are normally flat fees from the airport to the city. In some cities, taxis can be called. When you reserve by phone, the taxi meter goes on when the cabbie pulls out of his station. In Sicily, taxis rarely stop if hailed on the street. Although most taxi drivers are honest and hard-working, you will occasionally encounter an unscrupulous bad apple: If the front seat is inclined forward so as to block the vision of the meter, ask the driver to pull it up.

By Bicycle

Most Sicilian cities have bike-rental firms; otherwise, your hotel might help you make arrangements for one. Rentals in cities start at 10€ a day or 60€ a week. Even though helmets and lights are not legally required, it is prudent to have them, especially in a city like Palermo, where bike lanes are virtually non-existent. It is forbidden to bike along the autostrade. Bikes are transported free on Sicilian ferries, but you must pay to carry them on most trains. Fast trains generally do not allow bikes, although conductors on IC trains let you put a bike in the baggage train for a few extra euros. Most regional and local trains allow bike transport. Check www.trenitalia.it for more information about bicycle transport.

Getting There

By Plane

Sicily is served by four airports: Palermo Falcone-Borsellino Airport (tel. 091-7020111; www.gesap.it) at Punta Raisi 31km (19 miles) west of the city, Trapani Vincenzo Florio Airport (tel. 0923-842502; www.airgest.it) at Birgi 15kms (9 miles) from Trapani, Catania Vincenzo Bellini Airport (tel. 095-7239111; www.aeroporto.catania.it), the third largest airport in Italy, at Fontanarossa 7km (4 1/2 miles) from the city center. The newest airport is in the town of Comiso in the region of Ragusa, Comiso Aeroporto (www.aeroportodicomiso.eu/en).

Direct flights from the U.S. to Sicily are non-existant at the time of this writing. However, there are a number of directing flights available through both Rome and Milan, plus a number of the British and Irish airports. We recommend the websites SkyScanner.net and Momondo.com for flight searches.

By Car

If you're feeling particularly adventurous and have time it's also possible to drive from London to Palermo (allow at least 3 days for the journey), a distance of 1,822km (1,132 miles). Once across the channel, factor at least 24 hours of driving to the Italian border.

Rather than driving all through Italy, from here you could pick up a ferry from Genoa (Grandi Navi Veloci; www.gnv.it) which sails to Palermo in 20 hours.

By Train

For many visitors, especially backpackers, this is the most convenient way to reach Sicily from the Italian mainland. Depending on where you start your journey, and which category of train, the trip can take anywhere from 12 to 15 hours (Milan or Venice) or 9 to 12 hours (Rome or Naples). All trains from the mainland arrive at the port of Villa San Giovanni or Reggio Calabria, the toe of the Italian peninsula, and from there trains roll onto enormous barges for the 1-hour crossing to Messina. Trains either stop at Messina Centrale or continue on to Palermo, Catania, or Syracuse.

For fares and information within Italy, call tel. 892021 or visit www.trenitalia.it, also available in English. Eurai passes don't really make sense for travel to Sicily, since you won't be using them much on the island itself.

By Boat & Ferry

As an island, Sicily is well linked via sea to mainland Italy. The major connection is from Villa San Giovanni in Calabria, the last mainland city approached before the ferry trip over to Messina, in eastern Sicily. Ferries (traghetti) depart frequently from Villa San Giovanni, making the trip of 12km (7 1/2 miles) across the straits. If you don't have a car, you can also make the crossing by hydrofoil (aliscafo) from Reggio Calabria, which is faster but does not allow passengers to stand outside during the trip. If you have time to spare, take the ferry, and watch the crossing from the deck.

If you're already in Italy there are many options to choose from. Traghetti Lines (tel. 0565-912191; www.traghettilines.it) shows all the possible boat and ferry connections from mainland Italy, Sardinia, and Malta to Palermo, Catania, Messina, Trapani, and Pozzallo. Service to Palermo from Naples and Civitavecchia (Rome) is offered by SNAV (tel. 081-4285555; www.snav.it) while Ustica Lines (www.usticalines.it) handles service from Naples to the outer-lying islands (Ustica and the Egadi Islands). Grimaldi Lines (tel. 081-496444; www.grimaldi-lines.com) handles service from Livorno and Salerno to Palermo and Catania. Grandi Navi Veloci (tel. 010-2094591; www.gnv.it) sails from Genoa and Livorno Civitaveccia to Palermo. Departure times are always subjected to weather and sea conditions, so always call to ask for confirmation.

By Bus

Europe's major bus carrier, Eurolines (tel. 0870/514-3219 in London; www.eurolines.com) runs buses to Rome in 33 hours, with stops along the way. After that, you can take an Italian bus to Sicily. Buses leave England on Wednesday and Friday, heading for Milan and Rome.

If you're in Rome and want to travel overland by bus into Sicily, you can book tickets at Segesta, Piazza della Repubblica (tel. 0935-565111; www.interbus.it). It has two departures daily from Rome's Piazza Tiburtina to Palermo; the trip takes 12 hours. The line also goes to Syracuse in southern Sicily in 11 hours.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

With regards to responsible and eco- or sustainable tourism, Sicily is undergoing a renaissance, as landowners and locals alike are re-discovering the riches of their territory. Farming methods have been the same for centuries, and more and more farms and agriturismi owners are opening up their property to visitors to show them how it's done with little or no impact on the environment. Sustainable tourism also applies to the sea and coastal areas, as Sicily was one of the first zones in Europe to designate areas specifically for the protection and preservation of marine life (Ustica, Filicudi, Riserva dello Zingaro, Lampedusa). Fishing and building in these areas is forbidden and tour facilities are threadbare so as not to interfere with the surroundings.

A synonymous type of tourism is dubbed ethical tourism. It differs slightly in theory from eco-tourism, having a propensity toward travel with socially conscious issues in mind. Social awareness on the island was raised in the 1960s by anthropologist Danilo Dolci, who was appalled at the living and working conditions of the people in postwar Sicily, and made it his life's mission to recruit volunteers from all over the world to rectify the situation. Nowadays ethical tourism is best represented by working on farms that were once property of the Mafia, attracting volunteers from all over Italy, and the sale of pasta and other products harvested from the land goes toward the upkeep of the farm. To plan a trip to Sicily with ecological and social issues in mind start from: Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com), an excellent resource for understanding the ideology behind ecotourism and has suggestions for Sicily.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Even though it still has some way to go, homosexuality is moving in Sicily toward social acceptance. Yes, macho traditions and mentality are still deeply rooted in many of the rural areas. But public displays of affection between LGBTQ couples are not uncommon in such enlightened communities as Catania, Taormina, Pantelleria, Lampedusa and Palermo. When it happens in the smaller towns, though, it's often met with a lot of staring and the occasional comment. That being said, violence against homosexuals is unheard of. The first gay association in Italy was founded in Palermo in 1980 (ArciGay; www.arcigay.it) to protest the suicide of a homosexual couple tormented by ferocious public opinion. A recent mayor of Gela, Rosario Crocetta, is openly gay in a city known for its high Mafia density.

A good resource: The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; tel. 954/630-1637; www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry, and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses and tour operators.

Special-Interest Vacations

Many tourists like the idea of engaging in their hobbies while visiting another country. In Sicily, both can be done.

If cycling is your fancy, Backroads (tel. 800/462-2848 or 510/527-1555; www.backroads.com), run a number of Sicilian biking and walking tours that include food and wine tastings. It also offers a bike tour for families that's suitable for children as young as 9 years old. Butterfield & Robinson (tel. 866/551-9090 or 416/864-1354; www.butterfield.com) also operates a 6-day bike tour of Sicily, covering both the east and west of the island. In the U.K. and Ireland, the best bike tour operator is Iron Donkey with tours of west Sicily (tel. 028-90-813200; www.irondonkey.com). Exodus Travel (www.exodustravels.com) is another fine British organization, that gets travelers from across the globe, for its good-value biking tours of Sicily.

Sicilytravel.net also offers cycling, as well as literary and culinary tours of the island, mostly for private groups.  The International Kitchen (tel. 800-945-8606; www.theinternationalkitchen.com) is a top operator of culinary adventures on the island.

Insurance

For travel overseas, most U.S. health plans (including Medicare and Medicaid) do not provide coverage, and the ones that do often require you to pay for services upfront and reimburse you only after you return home. As a safety net, you may want to buy travel medical insurance.

The cost of travel insurance varies widely, depending on the destination, the cost, and length of your trip, your age and health, and the type of trip you're taking, but expect to pay between 5% and 8% of the vacation itself. For U.S. visitors, good sources for comparing available policies include TravelInsurance.com, InsureMyTrip.com and SquareMouth.com. Enter your trip cost and dates, your age, and other information, for prices from more than a dozen companies.

Trip-Cancellation Insurance

Trip-cancellation insurance will help retrieve your money if you have to back out of a trip or depart early, or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. Trip cancellation traditionally covers such events as sickness, natural disasters, and State Department or Foreign Office advisories. The latest news in trip-cancellation insurance is the availability of "any reason" cancellation coverage -- which costs more but covers cancellations made for any reason. You won't get back 100% of your prepaid trip cost, but you'll be refunded a substantial portion. We think trip cancellation insurance is a good idea if you're going on a pricey tour, or having to put down a deposit on a rental home. Otherwise, you likely won't need it. The companies listed above also show these sorts of policies.

Tip: ALWAYS buy insurance directly from insurance companies rather than from travel agents or tour operators. You'll get the best price that way. But more importantly, you'll have the protection of insurance if the company you're traveling with goes belly up.

Visitor Information

Tips for Families

Sicilians may love children, but they don't offer a lot of child-friendly places or amenities for them. For example, a kids' menu in a restaurant is a rarity. You can, however, request a half portion (mezza porzione), and most waiters will oblige -- though be prepared to pay full price in some uncompromising eateries. Most Sicilian hoteliers will let children 12 and younger stay for free in a room with a parent.

At attractions, inquire if a kids' discount is available; Italians call it sconto bambino. European Community youths 17 and under get a big break: They're admitted free to all state-run museums.

Babysitting services are available through most hotel desks or by going to the local tourist office in the town where you're staying. Many hotels have children's game rooms and playgrounds.

Calendar of Events

January

Epifania (Epiphany), Piana degli Albanesi. Located 29km (18 miles) from Palermo in one of the Albanian colonies founded at the end of the 15th century, the celebration of Epiphany is an ostentatious affair in the Orthodox Christian rite. A joyous procession of residents in traditional Albanian costumes parades through the streets. Call tel. 091-8574144 or go to www.pianalbanesi.it. January 6.

Carnevale, Acireale. Carnevale is celebrated all over Sicily, but this one is one of the most famous in Italy. In a town north of Catania between Mount Etna and the sea, it's marked by a colorful parade of masked participants and giant floats. Lemons and oranges from nearby citrus fields are used in abundance to create statues and figures, creating an aromatic atmosphere. It's a weeklong party of fun and revelry. End of January/ beginning of February, according to Lenten calendar.

February

Almond Blossom Festival, Agrigento. Literally thousands of almond trees are in bloom around the Valley of the Temples at this festival heralding the arrival of the first fruits of spring. In Phrygian myths, the almond tree was viewed as the "father of the world." The event is marked with music, folkloric dances from around the world, parades, and puppet shows. All kinds of sweets made with almonds are sold. First week of February.

Feast of Saint Agatha, Catania. This is the spectacular religious celebration of the martyred patron saint of the city, which takes place over three days. A procession of huge candle holders called candelore, representing the historical guilds of Catania, parades through the city, preceding the procession of the relics of Saint Agatha. There's also street theater and fireworks. Sweets based on centuries-old recipes from nunneries are sold. All-around mayhem prevails.  February 3 to February 5.

April

Holy Week Observances, island-wide. Processions and age-old ceremonies -- some from pagan days, some from the Middle Ages -- are staged in every city and town in Sicily. No matter where you are, you're likely to come across observances of this annual event. Trapani's procession of the Misteri is the island's most famous event staged during Holy Week. But the most dramatic and moving is in the inland city of Enna, about an hour west of Catania. Events are staged on such days as Holy Thursday, Good Friday, and, of course, Easter Sunday itself. Local tourist offices can supply details. Week leading up to Easter.

The Dance of the Devils, Prizzi. Unique in Italy, the dance of the devils (Il Ballo dei Diavoli) takes place on Easter Sunday in this town, a 2-hour drive south of Palermo, deep in the Sicilian interior. The festival represents the age-old struggle between good and evil. Figures dressed as red devils, their faces covered with grotesque masks, parade through the streets, searching for souls to devour. Death is seen dressed in yellow and carrying a crossbow. All ends well when "angels" appear later to subdue the devils. Easter Sunday.

May

Infiorata (Flower Festival), Noto. The residents of this little southeastern town prepare a magnificent carpet of flowers along Via Nicolaci, in the historic core. Themes are taken from religion and mythology. The festival features crafts shows, performances of sacred music, and tours of religious sites, followed by dances and parades of flower-bedecked antique carriages.

June

Festa del Muzzini, Messina. Muzzini are ancient vases draped in silk, which was a local product of the city, and are carried in parades. This observance is actually a pagan rite to honor Demeter, the goddess of earth and fertility. It's rumored that many young women trying to have a child find themselves impregnated on the night of this celebration.

July

Luglio Musicale, Trapani. A month-long series of outdoor events takes place at the Villa Margherita celebrating the finest in ballet, opera, and modern musicals since 1948.

The Feast of Santa Rosalia, Palermo. Holding a special place in the hearts of many residents, this is the celebration of the patron saint of the city. During the week-long festivities Palermo becomes an open-air theater. The highlight is when a 15m-high (49 ft.) float known as the carro, shaped like a boat and bearing a statue of the saint, is paraded along Corso Vittorio Emanuele from the Cathedral to the Foro Umberto at the sea, drawn by male devotees. Bands, dancers, circus performers, religious choruses, fireworks, theatrical performances, and food stalls (featuring everything from delectable tiny snails to the ubiquitous arancini (rice balls)) characterize the event.

Scalinata Infiorata, Caltagirone. The spectacular, arduous stairs of Caltagirone, where all of the 102 steps are decorated in local ceramics yet no two are alike, are embellished from top to bottom with flowers by day and candles by night that create an effigy of Saint James, the patron saint of the city. Contact the Caltagirone www.comune.caltagirone.ct.it.

August

Ferragosto (Assumption Day). This national holiday virtually shuts down the island of Sicily, marking both the religious festival of the Assumption of Mary and the proletarian Ferie di Agosto or August holidays. This event always includes religious processions; the real spectacle however is the night before, when bonfires are lit on all the beaches, giving way to all-night dancing and mayhem. August 15.

Palio dei Normanni, Piazza Armerina. Sicily's Norman past is observed during this historic celebration in which locals dress in medieval costumes and parade around town. Even jousting takes place among knights in period costumes, looking like refugees from the pages of Ivanhoe. They fight against a puppet representing the dreaded Saracens. Mid-August.

September

International Couscous Festival, San Vito Lo Capo. This annual event on the shores north of Trapani is a week-long festival of live music and a bounty of local foods. The couscous competition draws some of the best cooks in the world, including those from North Africa where the dish originated. You are guaranteed to put on weight if you participate in all of the feasting. More info at www.couscousfest.it. Last week of September.

October

Ottobrata Zafferanese, Zafferrana Etnea. At the foothills of Mount Etna, this month-long festival celebrates the local products of the area, and each weekend revolves around different themes: Honey, pistachios, wine, chestnuts, and grapes. Samplings abound, folkloristic dances, local artisans selling their crafts, and art exhibitions enliven the event.

November

Tutti i Santi (All Saints' Day), island-wide. This ancient observance is celebrated all over Italy and is also a national religious holiday. In Sicily, the spirits of the dead are said to come back to visit children, leaving them toys and other goodies. On this holiday, people take the time to make sure the tombs of their late beloveds are squeaky clean and, in most towns, it is not uncommon for families to sit by the tombs all day long, creating a veritable town festival at the cemetery. Pastry shops prepare a delectable confection, the ominously named "bones of the dead," and the frutta martorana, the almond paste shaped to resemble fruits and vegetables.

December

Chocolate Festival, Modica. Cocoa lovers from around the world flock to the baroque city of Modica, where the celebrated chocolate, still crafted according to recipes from the 16th century, is sold by the tons and local confectioners offer samples of their sweets made with top-secret recipes. A week of entertainment, overeating, and overall pre-holiday gaiety prevails. More info at www.chocobarocco.it. Second week of December.

Christmas Fair, Syracuse. This is the island's most colorful Christmas market. Many islanders drive for miles to purchase gifts here, including sweets, clothing, special embroidery, ornaments, and other items. It's held in the Epipoli section of Syracuse. From the second Saturday in December to December 21.