Things To Do in Silkeborg

Although we can never resist the charms of the Tollund Man, the greatest adventure for us is to sail aboard the world's last coal-fired paddle steamer, the Hjejlen, which has been sailing since 1861. It follows the route of the Gudenå River, going along a waterway of about 150km (100 miles) through Jutland's lake district. Himmelbjerget, or "Sky Mountain", is the major attraction along the route. Departures are daily from Silkeborg harbor at 10am and again at 2pm from mid-June to mid-August, with a round-trip costing DKK110 ($19/£11) for adults or DKK80 ($14/£8) for children 3 to 12. For schedules and more information, call Hjejlen Co., Ltd., Havnen (tel. 86-82-07-66).

The Riverboat Jazz Festival -- In late June of every year, you'd think you were in pre-Hurricane Katrina New Orleans. For 4 days, the sounds of jazz music -- Dixieland, swing, gospel, big band, street parades, and jam sessions -- fill the air. The festival takes place on the town squares, in the streets, and on the lakes, but most of all in four great tents erected for the occasion, two at the harbor, one on Bindslevs Plads, and another on Torvet (the main square). Concerts at these tents are always free. Jazz lovers from all over Europe flock here. For more information, contact the Turistbureau or log on to www.riverboat.dk.

The main market is held at Torvet (town square) on Saturday mornings, starting around 7am. It's always best to go before noon. A smaller market begins about the same time every Wednesday at Nørretorv. Among specialty stores, Bon Sac, Søndergade 2C (tel. 86-82-60-55), has an intriguing collection of fashionable leather goods. Inspiration, Østergade 5 (tel. 86-82-50-11), offers a large array of gift items for the home.

Available at any bar in town is Neptun, the local brew. According to a panel of expert tasters in Paris in 1986, it was then the world's best beer. Since that time, it's been challenged by other suds, but as any loyal native of Silkeborg will tell you, all other beers "taste like p -- ." We don't dare complete the word, but it rhymes with hiss.

Rather historic is the Underhuset Pub, part of the dining and drinking facilities within the also-recommended Hotel Dania, Torvet 5 (tel. 86-82-01-11), which is charmingly old-fashioned. The town's swankiest bar is in the previously recommended Radisson SAS . It was designed by Botikken, a well-known retail design store, and is the trendiest place for a drink in town.