Things To Do in Singaraja

Coming in from the east and passing the Dutch bridge and the Old Harbour, it is difficult to imagine just how important this port was in the centuries under Dutch colonialism. Just along from the large freedom fighter monument between the bridge and the harbor, the recently renovated Klenteng Ling Gwan Kiong Chinese Temple is well worth a visit. All the white-painted rows of shops in this old part of town were built in the early 1900s and have delicately carved Art Deco friezes.

Puri Kawan & Puri Kanginan Palace -- Follow the tree-lined Jalan Ngurah Rai -- with a few remaining colonial villas on each side -- south towards the statue of the winged lion symbol of Buleleng. Turn left to find Jalan Veteran 20 and the famous Gedong Kirtya (free admission; Mon-Thurs 7:30am-3:30pm, Fri 7am-12:30pm, weekends and public holidays closed). This very special library has more than 3,000 ancient texts written in Javanese kawi and old Balinese script, inscribed on lontar palm leaves. Founded by the Dutch, in what must have been a state of guilty conscience, the library opened in 1928. The other collection of prasasti inscriptions on bronze are the oldest examples of writing on the island. The library is part of the old Puri Kawan and Puri Agung palace complex. Just across the road, peer through the imposing gates of the Puri Kanginan Palace. Sometimes you can get lucky and you are invited in to have a look and see what life must have been like for royalty in centuries gone by.

Both Pasar Banyuasri (just off Jl. A. Yani near the imposing statue of a farmer with his bullocks) and Pasar Anyar (off Jl. Diponogoro) sell everything from fresh fish to sarongs. The gold shops on Jalan Sawo, off Jalan Diponogoro, sell good value jewelry appealing to Westerners. Hardy's supermarket, at the north end of Jalan Ngurah Rai, is good for a small selection of everything from imported Western food to cosmetics.

Berdikari, Jl. Dewi Sartika 42 (tel. 0362/22217; daily 7am-7pm), is one of the best shops for hand-woven ikat in Indonesia and home to the only silk weavers on the island. Visitors can see the fascinating dyeing and weaving process from start to finish. Presidents and politicians come here to buy ikat for formal wear and their photographs line the walls. The expensive fabrics can also be woven to order. Prices are fixed and credit cards are not accepted.