Things To Do in Siros
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Siros Attractions
Exploring Ermoupolis
If you arrive on Siros by boat, you'll be aware of the two steep hills that tower over Ermoupolis. Originally, the term Ano Siros (which means "the area above Siros") was used to describe the peaks of both hills. Today, the term Ano Siros describes the taller hill seen to the left as you enter the harbor. This was, and still is, the Catholic quarter of the town, settled by the Venetians in the 13th century. Much of the intricate maze of narrow streets from that period remains today; cars can drive up Ano Siros and park outside the gates (as residents here do), and then continue on foot, but cars are not allowed inside. There's a Jesuit monastery and a Capuchin monastery, as well as the elaborately decorated Church of Ayios Yeoryios (mass Sun at 11am), at the crest of the hill. The real joy of visiting Ano Siros comes from wandering along its narrow lanes, peeking surreptitiously into courtyards, and stumbling across a tiny shop or cafe. Needless to say, there are great views over Ermoupolis and the island. Omirou, one of the streets that run uphill, is probably your best bet for an assault on foot on Ano Siros
Ermoupolis's other hill, Vrondado, is crowned by the massive 19th-century blue-domed Greek Orthodox Church of the Resurrection (Anastasi). There's a fine view of Ermoupolis and the neighboring islands from the church's terrace. This area was built up as the town grew when Greeks from other islands, especially Chios, moved here at the time of the Greek War of Independence, in the 1820s. Narrow streets, marble-paved squares, and dignified pedimented mansions with elegant balconies make this neighborhood a quiet refuge from the bustling inner city.
Ermoupolis's central square, Plateia Miaoulis, and the elaborately elegant neoclassical town hall (designed by Ernst Ziller, who designed the Grande Bretagne Hotel in Athens) are conspicuous reminders of Ermoupolis's heyday. Ringed by high palm trees and facing the town hall, you really can't miss Plateia Miaoulis; if you do, go back to the harbor and head inland on Venizelou. This is the heart of Ermoupolis; this is where the island's most vigorous volta (promenade) takes place even if it takes place under umbrellas. Any of the cafes here is a nice place to sit, preferably with an elaborate ice-cream sundae, and watch the promenade.
A couple of blocks northeast of the town hall is the recently restored 19th-century Apollon Theater, a smaller version of Milan's La Scala, hence nicknamed "la piccola Scala." The theater is home to the Festival of the Aegean (www.festivaloftheaegean.com), with its summer opera, classical, and pop music performances. Even if you can't go to a performance here, step inside to see the elaborate painted ceilings and crystal chandeliers (entrance fee 2€). To the northeast is the imposing Greek Orthodox church of Ayios Nikolaos. The green marble iconostasis and the touching monument to the Unknown Soldier, in the park across from the church, were both done by Vitalis, a famed 19th-century marble carver from Tinos. A short stroll beyond the church will bring you to the neighborhood called Vaporia, named after the steamships that brought it great prosperity. Many of the town houses are built on the edge of the rocks that plunge into the sea. One other church on nearby Omirou Street is worth seeing: the Cathedral Church of the Transfiguration (Metamorphosi), with its marble floors and precinct with wonderful pebble mosaics. This church, with its imposing arcade, is a grand tribute to the 19th-century prosperity of the Ermoupolis. One more church to visit: the Church of the Koimisis (Dormition), just off the harbor, a block or so from the casino. This 19th-century church, with a very cheerful blue and gold pulpit, houses (among much else) an icon of the Virgin, painted by Domenico Theotokopoulos, better known as El Greco. Exploring Ermoupolis is a very nice way to spend a day, or parts of any number of days.
Festivals on Siros
Siros has two impressive summer festivals, the Ermoupoleia (www.syros-live.gr) and the Festival of the Aegean (www.festivaloftheaegean.com). The Ermoupoleia runs almost all summer and has indoor and open-air concerts, plays, and performances. The Festival of the Aegean, usually held in mid-July, stages many of its performances -- including several operas -- at the glorious Apollon Theater. And Ano Siro, the community clustered on a peak above Ermoupolis, has its own festival in July and August (www.syros-live.gr).
Siros Nightlife
Siros was among the most fertile grounds for rembetika, the haunting songs of the dispossessed underclasses that probably began in Asia Minor in the early 20th century. Markos Vambakaris, the Bob Dylan, as it were, of rembetika, was born on Siros, which still prizes his music. You can hear rembetika at Xanthomalis (no phone; closed in summer) and at Taverna Lilis (tel. 22810/28-087), in Ano Siros, which sometimes have late-night performances on the weekends; reservations are a must.
As always on the islands, places that are hot one season are often gone the next. Stick your head into any of the many bars along the waterfront to see which is playing music that suits your taste. Liquid Bar gets rave reviews from a taxi driver I talked to who likes his music very loud. You can also join in the evening volta (stroll) around Plateia Miaoulis, take a seat to watch it, or drop in at Piramatiko, Agora, or Bizanas, longtime music joints. The outdoor Pallas Cinema, east of the main square, has one nightly showing, often in English.
