Hotels in Siwa

Siwa doesn't have any cookie-cutter five-stars -- yet. Hotels downtown (this remains a one-square town) and around the bus station tend to be down-market and not great, with two exceptions: the Shali Lodge and the Al Bab Inshal (below). Development outside the town aims at a higher-end market and looks to deliver a natural, Siwan experience. I suspect that there isn't a single panel of double glazing among them, and the nearest business center is at least 3 hours' drive from here; the more you pay, it seems, the more stripped down this experience becomes. Expect good (in some cases excellent) food, rough-edged but efficient service, and loads of atmosphere from these places, but minibars, satellite TV, and air-conditioning are simply not on the menu. If you're just getting off the bus and looking for somewhere to stay, avoid the first couple of hotels that you come to. If you're really stuck, the Cleopatra is probably the best of them, but it's only to be used as a last resort.

Inexpensive

Avoid the budget hotels around the bus station (they're not very clean). If you're desperate, your first stop should be the Alexander the Great. Take a can of Raid, and expect to pay LE20 to LE30 ($3.60-$5.45/£1.85-£2.75).