Things To Do in Skiathos

Skiathos is a relatively modern town, built in 1930 on two low-lying hills, then reconstructed after heavy German bombardment during World War II. The handsome Bourtzi Fortress (originally from the 13th c., but greatly rebuilt across the centuries) jutting into the middle of the harbor is on an islet connected by a broad causeway. Ferries and hydrofoils stop at the port on the right (east) of the fortress, while fishing boats and excursion caiques dock on the left (west). Whitewashed villas with red-tile roofs line both sides of the harbor. The small church of Ayios Nikolaos dominates the hill on the east side, as does the larger church of Trion Ierarchon (Three Archbishops) on the west side.

The main street leading away from the harbor and up through town is named Papadiamandis, after the island's best-known son. Here you'll find numerous restaurants, cafes, and stores, plus services such as Mare Nostrum Holidays, the post office, the telephone office, and the tourist police.

On the west flank of the harbor (the left as you disembark from the ferry) are outdoor cafes and restaurants, excursion caiques (for the north-coast beaches, adjacent islands, and around-the-island tours) and, at the far corner, the stepped ramp (above the Oasis Café) leading up to the town's next level. Mounting these broad steps will lead you to Plateia Trion Ierarchon, a stone-paved square around the town's most important church. The eastern flank, technically the New Paralia, is home to many tourist services as well as a few recommended hotels and many restaurants. At the far end, the harborfront road branches to the right along the yacht harbor -- an important nightlife area in summer, and to the left toward the airport and points of interest inland.

The Kastro & the Monasteries

When you want a change from the beach, I recommend an excursion to the Kastro, the old fortress-capital on the northernmost point of the island, east of Lalaria beach. The kastro was built in a remote and spectacular site in the 16th century, when the island was overrun by the Turks. It was abandoned shortly after the War of Independence. Once joined to firm ground by a drawbridge, it can now be reached by cement stairs. The remains of the more than 300 houses and 22 churches have mostly fallen to the sea, but three of the churches, porcelain plates embedded in their worn stucco facades, still stand, and the original frescoes of one are still visible. From this citadel prospect there are excellent views to the Kastronisia islet below and the sparkling Aegean. Kastro can be reached by excursion caique (with a fairly demanding climb from the beach), overland by mule or donkey tour (available through most travel agencies), or by car via the road that leads northeast out of town, passing the turnoff to the Moni Evangelistrias , and continuing on to the end near the church of Panagia Kardasi. From here it is a mildly demanding 2km (1-mile) walk.

Moni Evangelistrias is the more rewarding of the two monasteries that draw many visitors. Public buses travel here sporadically, but with your own vehicle it can be easily visited in not much more than an hour from Skiathos town. (Driving will also allow you to stop and admire the views.) To get here, take the road out of the northeast end and pass by the turnoff to the airport. After less than a kilometer (1/2 mile), take the sharp right turnoff (signed) and climb about 3km (2 miles) to the monastery. Dating from the late 18th century, it has been completely (but authentically) restored; its architecture, icons, and woodcarvings make the trip worthwhile.

The other monastery, Panagia Kounistria, is approached from the coastal highway along the beaches; just before Troulos Beach, take the right branch of the road (signed SELINOS) and climb about 4km (2 1/2 miles) to the monastery. The 17th-century structure contains some fine icons (although its most important icon is now displayed in the Tris Ierarches Church in Skiathos town).

The Aegean Festival takes place from late June to early October, offering occasional performances of ancient Greek tragedies and comedies, traditional music and dance, modern dance and theater, and visiting international troupes. Festival events take place in the outdoor theater at the Bourtzi Cultural Center, on the promontory on the harbor. (The center itself, open daily 10am-2pm and 5:30-10pm, hosts art exhibits in its interior.) Performances begin at 9:30pm and usually cost about 15€; call tel. 24270/23-717 for information.

Although many may prefer to pass the evening with a volta (stroll) along the harbor or around and above the Plateia Trion Ierarchon, there is no denying that Skiathos town has a lively nightlife scene. I'll do my best to single out some of the more recently popular places, but I cannot be responsible for the frequent changes of names.

The main concentration of nightclubs is in the warren of streets west of Papadiamandis (left as you come up from the harbor). On Evangelistrias, the street opposite the post office is the Blue Chips Club; this street intersects with Polytechniou -- also known as "Bar Street": you'll find Destiny Bar, the favorite -- and lively -- hangout for the gay crowd; the Admiral Benbow Club, which offers something a bit quiet; and the flashier Spartacus. At the next intersection south, you'll find Kirki, a more intimate bar. Wander back down Papadiamandis to find Kentavros Bar, on the left beyond the Papadiamandis House, which plays classic rock and jazz.

On the far west end of the harbor, if you want sports with your drinks, try Oasis Cafe; if there's a game of any sort going on, it'll be on the tube. Meanwhile, at the far eastern end of the harbor are a few clubs popular with the younger set -- among them, Remezzo and Rock 'n' Roll Bar.

Movie fans might enjoy the open-air showings at Attikon (on Papadiamandis, opposite Mare Nostum Holidays) or at Cinema Paradiso (up along the "ring road"). Both have two shows nightly, the first around 8:30pm; tickets are 6€.