Planning a trip to Southeast Asia

Getting Around

Regional flights in Southeast Asia are affordable and convenient -- a great way to get around if your time is short. That said, half the fun of traveling is getting there -- many walk away from land travel in this part of the world saying, "I'll never do it again, but what a trip!" When the massive Soviet 4X4 nearly lays on its side in the deep ruts of a washed-out road in Laos, or that rattletrap motorbike you rented in hill-tribe country in the north of Vietnam catches a flat and leaves you stranded, you might curse yourself or the very road you're on, but you'll have lots of stories to tell when you get back.

By Plane

Myriad routes into the region are served by international carriers, including Silk Air (the regional arm of Singapore Airlines), Malaysia Airlines, Thai Airways, Cathay Pacific, Vietnam Airlines, and Garuda Indonesia. Domestic carriers include Pelangi Air, AirAsia, and Berjaya Air in Malaysia; Lao Airlines in Laos; and Bangkok Airways and P.B. Air in Thailand and Cambodia.

Remember that international airports are not restricted to capital cities. In addition to Bangkok, Thailand has international access via Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai (to China and Laos), U-Tapao and Phuket (to Cambodia), and Phuket and Ko Samui (to Singapore and Kuala Lumpur). You can fly into Malaysia at Penang, Langkawi, and Tioman Island, and to Borneo destinations direct from Singapore. Laos has international access at both Luang Prabang and Pakse, in addition to the capital, Vientiane. Vietnam has international flights to both Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) and Hanoi. And in Cambodia, you can fly directly to Siem Reap, the access city to Angkor Wat, from Bangkok, Chiang Mai, U-Tapao (near Pattaya), Phuket, Vientiane, Vietnam, and Singapore.

Check out the UNESCO World Heritage routes, a new schedule of flights offered by Bangkok Airways. Originating in Bangkok, this tour connects Sukhothai (Thailand) with Luang Prabang (Laos), Hue (Vietnam), and Angkor Wat (Cambodia).

Ask any travel agent for information, and be sure to research all flight options for the most direct routes and best fares.

By Train

With a few exceptions, trains that operate throughout Southeast Asia are poorly maintained, overcrowded, and slow. While trains used to be a good option for long distances, the recent increase in budget airlines offering rock-bottom prices has made train travel a less appealing option. The most popular rail route -- and the only one with interconnecting service among countries in all of Southeast Asia -- runs from Singapore to Bangkok (and vice versa) through the heart of the Malaysian peninsula, with stops along the way at the cities of Johor Bahru, Malacca, Kuala Lumpur, and Butterworth (for Penang). It takes 6 hours from Singapore to Kuala Lumpur, and another 35 hours from Kuala Lumpur to Bangkok. You can board the train at the Singapore Railway Station in Tanjong Pagar, at the Kuala Lumpur Central Railway Station on Jalan Hishamuddin, and in Bangkok at the Hua Lamphong Railway Station on Rama IV Road.

Upscale travelers with unlimited budgets can book passage on one of the world's foremost luxury trains, the Eastern & Oriental Express, which covers the distance between Singapore and Bangkok in 42 hours.

Reliable rail service also runs north to south along coastal Vietnam, with interesting new luxury cars that connect Hanoi, the capital, with the northern hill country and make a further connection to the vast rail networks of China.

By Bus

Buses are good on the budget and often the best way into the back of beyond. Bus trips in the region range from VIP tours with air-conditioning and video monitors to rattletrap, overcrowded, broken-down mobiles. Thai and Malay buses are quite reliable and a good option, connecting the far north of Thailand with the far southern tip of Malaysia and on to Singapore. In Laos and Cambodia, local buses, with the exception of a few interior routes, are rough. Also, check each country's individual visa requirements, as you often need to prearrange visas for land crossings.

By Boat

There are lots of boat adventures in the region. More and more travelers are heading down the Mekong, starting from the town of Chiang Khong in northern Thailand and ending in Luang Prabang in Laos. Luxury riverboats run the same trip, as well as trips in the far south of Laos between Pakse and Si Phan Don (look for LuangSay Cruises under the relevant sections). Boat trips in Vietnam's Halong Bay, just east of Hanoi, are very popular; outfitters such as Handspan and Buffalo Tours run great excursions. Don't miss the new boat connections along the Mekong tributaries between Vietnam's Mekong Delta and Phnom Penh, Cambodia's capital. Boats also connect Cambodia's capital, Phnom Penh, with Siem Reap, the town that supports Angkor Wat, along the Mekong as it flows through Tonle Sap Lake.

By Car

Car rental is affordable in Southeast Asia. In the developing countries -- Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia -- it is a good idea (and costs not much more) to hire a car with driver. Insurance is often unavailable. Road rules vary, and in some places seem nonexistent -- though there is always a method to the madness -- so it's not a bad idea to spring for a driver where affordable. Be sure to research details and invest in good maps before heading out.

Staying Connected

Internet Access

Internet cafes in Southeast Asia are many and affordable, preferable to expensive hotel business centers (you'll also meet lots of fellow travelers at Internet cafes). Of course, using your own laptop or PDA gives you the most flexibility, but connections in hotels are expensive and wireless hotspots are, as yet, few.

Without Your Own Computer

In most parts of Southeast Asia, you'll find Internet cafes on every street corner. Be warned that rural destinations in places such as Laos have little or no service. Backpacker ghettos are always a good bet for finding cheap and reliable service. Avoid hotel business centers unless you're willing to pay exorbitant rates.

Most major airports now have Internet kiosks scattered throughout their gates. These give you basic Web access for a per-minute fee that's usually higher than cybercafe prices.

With Your Own Computer

More and more hotels, cafes, and retailers are signing on as Wi-Fi (wireless fidelity) "hotspots." Some places provide free wireless networks. With your own wireless-capable computer, connection is a snap.

If Wi-Fi is not available, most business-class hotels offer dataports for laptop modems, some using an Ethernet network cable. You can bring your own cables, but most hotels offer them as well. In addition, major Internet service providers (ISPs) have local access numbers around the world, allowing you to go online by placing a local call. Check your ISP's website or call its toll-free number and ask how you can use your current account away from home, and how much it will cost.

Wherever you go, bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters, a spare phone cord, and a spare Ethernet network cable -- or find out whether your hotel supplies them to guests.

Most Southeast Asian countries run on 220-volt electrical currents. Some hotels have 110-volt service. Plugs are two-pronged, with either round or flat prongs. If you're coming from the U.S. and you must bring electrical appliances, bring your own converter and adapter (a surge protector is a good idea for a laptop, too).

Cellphone

If your cellphone is on a GSM system, and you have a world-capable multiband phone, you can make and receive calls across civilized areas around much of the globe. Just call your wireless operator and ask for "international roaming" to be activated on your account. Unfortunately, per-minute charges can be high.

For many, renting a phone is a good idea. We suggest renting the phone before you leave home. North Americans can rent one before leaving home from InTouch USA (tel. 800/872-7626; www.intouchglobal.com) or RoadPost (tel. 888/290-1606 or 905/272-5665; www.roadpost.com). InTouch will also, for free, advise you on whether your existing phone will work overseas; simply call tel. 703/222-7161 between 9am and 4pm EST, or go to http://intouchglobal.com/travel.htm.

For trips of more than a few weeks spent in one country, buying a phone can be economically attractive, as many nations have cheap prepaid phone systems. Once you arrive at your destination, stop by a local cellphone shop and get the cheapest package.

True wilderness adventurers, or those heading to less-developed countries, should consider renting a satellite phone ("satphone"). It's different from a cellphone in that it connects to satellites and works where there's no cellular signal or ground-based tower. Satphones are much more expensive to buy or rent than cellphones, however, and this cost, combined with the improved cellphone coverage throughout Southeast Asia, makes cellphones the much more sensible option.

Tips for Student Travelers

This region has become a hot destination for budget-minded students, who often hit the shores in Southeast Asia and travel for extended periods of time. From bases such as Bangkok's Khao San Road, backpackers roam the rugged highways and byways, paving the way for high-end tourism. Places such as southern Thailand are attracting a young, spring-break crowd.

Any discounts to be found in Southeast Asia come from hard bargaining or tolerance for the most basic accommodations, but it's not a bad idea to have an International Student Identity Card (ISIC), which offers substantial savings on plane tickets and some entrance fees. It also provides you with basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour help line. The card is available from STA Travel (tel. 800/781-4040 in North America; www.statravel.com, or www.statravel.co.uk in the U.K.), the biggest student travel agency in the world. If you're no longer a student but are still under 26, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) from the same people, and it entitles you to some discounts (but not on museum admissions). Travel CUTS (tel. 800/667-2887 or 416/614-2887; www.travelcuts.com) offers similar services for both Canadians and U.S. residents. Irish students may prefer to turn to USIT (tel. 01/602-1600; www.usitnow.ie), an Ireland-based specialist in student, youth, and independent travel.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Seniors traveling in the region can bask in the glow of filial piety and the region's notorious Confucian respect for elders, but they are less likely to enjoy the major discounts found in the West. Mention the fact that you're a senior when you make your travel reservations, though. In some cases, people over 60 qualify for reduced admission to theaters, museums, and other attractions, as well as discounted fares on public transportation.

Members of AARP (formerly known as the American Association of Retired Persons), 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 (tel. 888/687-2277; www.aarp.org), often get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP The Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Anyone 50 and older can join.

Many reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus market. Elderhostel (tel. 877/426-8056; www.elderhostel.org) arranges study programs for those 55 and over. ElderTreks (tel. 800/741-7956; www.eldertreks.com) offers small-group tours to off-the-beaten-path or adventure-travel locations, restricted to travelers 50 and older. INTRAV (tel. 800/456-8100; www.intrav.com) is a high-end tour operator that caters to the mature, discerning traveler (not specifically seniors), with trips around the world that include guided safaris, polar expeditions, private-jet adventures, and small-boat cruises down jungle rivers.

Recommended publications offering travel resources and discounts for seniors include the quarterly magazine Travel 50 & Beyond (www.travel50andbeyond.com); Travel Unlimited: Uncommon Adventures for the Mature Traveler (Avalon); 101 Tips for Mature Travelers, available from Grand Circle Travel (tel. 800/221-2610 or 617/350-7500; www.gct.com); and Unbelievably Good Deals and Great Adventures That You Absolutely Can't Get Unless You're Over 50 (McGraw-Hill), by Joann Rattner Heilman.

More and more seniors are considering Southeast Asia as a retirement destination. If you fall into this category, take a look at Retire to Asia (www.retiretoasia.com), an e-book by Ken Silver, or www.retire-asia.com, a highly informative website by a British expat living in Vientiane. Although it is geared toward those considering a move to the region, it also has some of the most up-to-date nuts-and-bolts travel information available online.

Tips for Single Travelers

By and large, travelers in Southeast Asia are seekers of some kind, so many prefer to go it alone. For independent travelers, solo journeys are opportunities to make friends and meet locals. There is also a certain camaraderie that develops on long bus rides or in the uncertainty and wonder shared with fellow travelers. A trip that starts out solo often ends in friendships that last a lifetime.

For advice about hopping off the track and finding your own path, check out Vagabonding (www.vagabonding.net), which has information both practical and spiritual about the ways of the wanderer. Another inspiration is The Art of Travel, by Alain de Botton (Penguin Press). For more practical information, check out Eleanor Berman's latest edition of Traveling Solo: Advice and Ideas for More Than 250 Great Vacations (Globe Pequot), which has advice on traveling alone, either solo or as part of a group tour.

If going by tour, it is important to know that single travelers are often hit with a "single supplement" to the base price. To avoid it, you can agree to room with other single travelers or find a compatible roommate before you go, from one of the many roommate-locator agencies.

Travel Buddies Singles Travel Club (tel. 800/998-9099; www.travelbuddiesworldwide.com), based in Canada, runs small, intimate, single-friendly group trips and will match you with a roommate free of charge. TravelChums (tel. 212/787-2621; www.travelchums.com) is an Internet-only travel-companion matching service with elements of a personals-type site, hosted by the respected New York-based Shaw Guides travel service.

Many reputable tour companies offer singles-only trips. Singles Travel International (tel. 877/765-6874; www.singlestravelintl.com) offers singles-only trips to places such as London, Fiji, and the Greek Islands. Backroads (tel. 800/462-2848; www.backroads.com) offers more than 160 active-travel trips to 30 destinations worldwide, including Bali, Morocco, and Costa Rica.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Entry Requirements

Many countries covered in this guide require only a valid passport for citizens of the U.S., U.K., Canada, Australia, and New Zealand. For an up-to-date listing of passport requirements around the world, go to the "Foreign Entry Requirement" page of the U.S. State Department at www.travel.state.gov.

Note that Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia require all visitors to have entry visas. Though most international airports offer visas upon arrival, and there are more overland points where you can apply with passport photos and money when you arrive, if you plan to enter Vietnam, Laos, or Cambodia from rural overland points, you often need to obtain a visa beforehand (you may even need to specify which entry point).

Bali (Indonesia) -- Visitors from the U.S., Canada, most of Europe, Australia, and New Zealand are given a visa upon arrival for a fee of $10 (£6.65) for stays of 7 days or less and $25 (£17) for stays of up to 30 days. The only official gateways to Bali are Ngurah Rai Airport or the seaports of Padang Bai and Benoa. If you want to stay longer than 30 days, you must get a tourist or business visa before coming to Indonesia. Tourist visas cannot be extended, while business visas can be extended for 6 months at Indonesian immigration offices.

Cambodia -- All visitors are required to carry a passport and visa. A 1-month visa can be obtained upon entry at the Phnom Penh or Siem Reap international airports for $20. Applying online full current rules: https://www.embassyofcambodiadc.org/tourist_visa_type-t.html) for a 1-month e-visa costs $30. The procedure is simple, straightforward, and will save you time and energy. Bring one 2x2-inch passport photo for your application, or be fined. Visa on arrival is available at several land crossings, including Poi Pet (Thailand), the boat-crossing point from Chau Doc (Vietnam), and Dong Kralor (Laos).

Laos -- Visitors need a valid passport and visa to visit Laos. There are a number of entry sites where visas are granted upon arrival: by air to Vientiane or Luang Prabang, or when crossing from Thailand over the Friendship Bridge between Vientiane and Nong Khai, or between Chiang Khong and Houay Xai in the far north, and Mukdahan and Savannakhet or Chong Mek and Vung Tao (near Pakse) in the far south. A 30-day visa at these arrival points costs $30. You will also need a passport-size photo. When coming from Vietnam, be sure to have a prearranged visa. At an embassy outside of Laos, the going rate for a 30-day visa is $35; you'll have to wait up to 5 days for processing (less in Bangkok). For a fee, travel agents in Thailand and other countries in the region can help you jump over the bureaucratic hurdles and get a visa in 1 day.

Malaysia -- To enter Malaysia, you must have a valid passport. Citizens of the U.S. do not need visas for tourism and business visits. Citizens of Canada, Australia, New Zealand, and the U.K. do not require a visa for tourism or business visits not exceeding 1 month.

Singapore -- To enter Singapore, you'll need a valid passport. Visas are not necessary for citizens of the U.S., Canada, the U.K., Australia, and New Zealand. Upon entry, visitors from these countries will be issued a 30-day pass for a social visit only, except for Americans, who get a 90-day pass.

Thailand -- All visitors to Thailand must carry a passport valid for at least 6 months. Technically, you need proof of onward passage (either a return or through ticket), though this is rarely requested. Visas are not required for stays of up to 30 days for citizens of the U.S., Australia, Canada, New Zealand, or the U.K., but 3-month tourist visas can be arranged before arrival.

Vietnam -- Residents of the U.S., Canada, Australia, New Zealand, and the U.K. need both a passport and a valid visa to enter Vietnam. A tourist visa usually lasts 30 days and costs $65. You need to specify your date of entry and exit. Though there's no official policy, tourist visas can commonly be extended with little hassle. Multiple-entry business visas are available that are valid for up to 3 months; however, you must have a sponsoring agency in Vietnam, and it can take much longer to process. For short business trips, it's less complicated simply to enter as a tourist.

Customs

What You Can Bring into Southeast Asia

Allowable amounts of tobacco, alcohol, and currency are comparable in all countries: usually two cartons of cigarettes, up to two bottles of liquor, and between $3,000 and $10,000. Plant material and animals fall under restrictions across the board. For Singapore, there are no duty-free allowances for cigarettes.

What You Can Take Home from Southeast Asia

Restrictions on what you can take out of the various nations of Southeast Asia are loose at best. Expect a red flag if you have any kind of plant materials or animals, but the most notable restriction has to do with antiques. To prevent the kind of wholesale looting of the region's treasures in the recent colonial past, you might be stopped if you are carrying any Buddhist statuary or authentic antiques or religious artifacts. This does not apply to tourist trinkets, however aged and interesting. In fact, despite any salesman's claim of authenticity, you'll be hard-pressed to find authentic antiques.

U.S. Citizens -- For specifics on what you can bring back and the corresponding fees, download the invaluable free pamphlet Know Before You Go online at www.cbp.gov. (Click on "Travel" and then "Know Before You Go! Online Brochure.") Or contact U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667), and request the pamphlet.

Canadian Citizens -- For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens -- For information, contact HM Customs & Excise (tel. 0845/010-9000, or 020/8929-0152 from outside the U.K.; www.hmce.gov.uk).

Australian Citizens -- A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information, contact the Australian Customs Service (tel. 1300/363-263; www.customs.gov.au).

New Zealand Citizens -- Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: New Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice no. 4. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Tips on Accommodations

Affordable luxury is the name of the game in the countries of Southeast Asia. For what you might pay for a cracker-box room in big cities in the U.S. and Europe, you can go in style in Indochina and the countries on the Malay Peninsula. Pay more than $100, and you'll live like royalty. Budget travelers and young backpackers flock to the region, and a big part of the charm is spending $2 to $5 per night; it makes the budget go on and on. If your trip is short, live it up. Go for a luxury room and take advantage of affordable spa treatments (at a fraction of what you'd pay elsewhere). Midrange boutique hotels and rustic ecofriendly rural resorts are also a new trend as developers discover that refurbished is cool, and that location -- whether overlooking the Mekong or set in a tropical rainforest -- is everything.

You'll find many of the major chains represented in the region. Sheraton has hotels throughout Thailand, Singapore, and in the major stops in Vietnam. Inter-Continental has high-end business properties in Hanoi, Bangkok, Phnom Penh, and Singapore. Hilton has fine properties in Hanoi (Vietnam), Bangkok and Phuket (Thailand), throughout Malaysia and Singapore, and on Bali. The French hoteliers at Accor host a number of Sofitel and Novotel hotels in the region; many of the big-city properties are aimed at the business market, but in Vietnam Sofitel takes the cake with some of the most unique refurbished hotels going, and in Cambodia it has a top resort as well. Four Seasons has fine properties in Bangkok, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, and outside of Chiang Mai. JW Marriott has a hotel in Bangkok and a luxury resort on Phuket. Le Meridien boasts top resorts and golf in Thailand and Bali (Indonesia).

There are also a few good local chains. The Amari group is a Swiss-managed hotel chain with semiluxurious properties in all of the major stops in Thailand; service is conscientious and there is a good consistency among its many hotels (and good rates). In Vietnam, and now Cambodia, the Victoria hotels are a charming blend of atmosphere and connection to place, without sacrificing all of the comforts of home. Pansea hotels, now individually branded under the management of the luxury Orient Express group, host some of the most luxurious sanctuaries that take you away from it all but remind you of local culture -- find them in Laos, Thailand, and Cambodia. Aman Resorts are in a class all their own, with their sprawling villa properties in Indonesia, Cambodia, and soon in Laos, all at rock-star prices.

Villa rental is a popular choice in island destinations. Balinese villas are a particular steal, best over a longer period of time and with hired staff. In places such as Thailand's Phuket, you'll find timeshares and long-term rates for private, serviced, beachside places that are quite enticing (beware the hard sell, though).

Each of the countries in Southeast Asia sets its own star standards for hotels, usually one through five. Note that a five-star might only be rated so because of the quantity, not quality, of services offered.

Tips for Multicultural Travelers

Black Travel Online (www.blacktravelonline.com) posts news on upcoming events and includes links to articles and travel-booking sites.

Agencies and organizations that provide resources for black travelers include Rodgers Travel (tel. 800/825-1775; www.rodgerstravel.com) and Henderson Travel & Tours (tel. 800/327-2309 or 301/650-5700; www.hendersontravel.com), which has specialized in trips to Africa since 1957.

For more information, check out the following collections and guides: Go Girl: The Black Woman's Guide to Travel & Adventure (Eighth Mountain Press), a compilation of travel essays by writers including Jill Nelson and Audre Lorde; Travel and Enjoy Magazine (tel. 866/266-6211; www.travelandenjoy.com); and Pathfinders Magazine (tel. 877/977-PATH; www.pathfinderstravel.com), which includes articles on everything from Rio de Janeiro to Ghana as well as information on upcoming ski, diving, golf, and tennis trips.

Money

The East Asian financial crisis is now a distant memory, and the countries of Southeast Asia are generally gaining economic clout in the world; but the rate of exchange, not to mention the price of most goods and services, means that travel in the region is very budget friendly. In places such as Laos or Cambodia, you'll find that you can live quite well on very little, and the region's resort destinations and luxury accommodations in general come at a fraction of what you might pay in your home country. ATM service is good in the larger cities but can be scant, at best, in some of the region's backwaters. Traveler's checks, an anachronism elsewhere in the world, are still not a bad idea, especially in the developing countries of the region. Note that the U.S. dollar is the de facto currency for many Southeast Asian countries, particularly in Laos, Vietnam, and Cambodia. Hotels in particular prefer doing business in U.S. dollars to dealing in local currency, a practice that helps them stay afloat amid fluctuating currency values. In some parts, everybody down to the smallest shop vendor quotes prices in U.S. dollars, and particularly the big-ticket items are best handled with greenbacks instead of large stacks of local currency.

While dealing in U.S. dollars can make things less complicated, always keep in mind local currency values so you know if you're being charged the correct amount. In this book, we've listed hotel, restaurant, and attraction rates in whatever form the establishments quoted them -- in U.S. dollars where those were quoted, and in local currencies (with U.S. dollar and British pound equivalents) where those were used.

Note that with the exception of the Singapore dollar, Malaysian ringgit, and Hong Kong dollar (which have remained stable), all other Southeast Asian national currencies are still in a state of flux. Before you budget your trip based on rates we give in this book, be sure to check the currency's current status. You can find a comprehensive currency converter at www.oanda.com/convert/classic.

Currency

You will have to rely on local currency when traveling in many rural areas where neither traveler's checks nor credit cards are accepted. The U.S. dollar is the most readily accepted foreign currency throughout Southeast Asia, and it's a good idea to carry some greenbacks as backup.

It's not a bad idea to try and exchange at least some money -- just enough to cover airport incidentals and transportation to your hotel -- before you leave home (though don't expect the exchange rate to be ideal), so you can avoid lines at airport ATMs; most international arrival points in the region, however, have 24-hour exchange counters. You can exchange money at your bank or local American Express or Thomas Cook office. If you're far away from a bank with currency-exchange services, American Express offers traveler's checks and foreign currency, though with a $15 order fee and additional shipping costs, through www.americanexpress.com or tel. 800/807-6233.

Bali (Indonesia) -- Indonesia's main currency is the rupiah (Rp), with bills of Rp100, 500, 1,000, 5,000, 10,000, 20,000, 50,000, and 100,000. Coins come in denominations of Rp25, 50, 100, and 500. After wild fluctuations in the 1990s, the rupiah has stabilized in recent years to Rp11,223= $1.

Cambodia -- Cambodia's monetary unit is the riel, which is available in 100, 200, 500, 1,000, 5,000, 10,000, 20,000, 50,000, and 100,000 riel notes. Cambodia's volatile exchange rate typically fluctuates, but is currently at 4,000 riel = $1. It's a good idea to bring a supply of U.S. dollars, as the dollar is considered Cambodia's second currency and is accepted -- even preferred -- by many hotels, guesthouses, and restaurants. If paying in dollars, you'll get the small change in riel.

Laos -- The primary unit of currency is the kip (pronounced keep), which comes in denominations of 500, 1,000, 2,000, 5,000, 10,000, 20,000 and 50,000 notes. The exchange rate is approximately 8,500 kip = $1. As in Cambodia, many tourist establishments prefer payment in U.S. dollars. In many areas of Laos, both U.S. dollars and Thai baht are preferred over the local currency.

Malaysia -- The ringgit (RM), which is also referred to as the Malaysian dollar, is the unit of currency. One ringgit equals 100 sen, and notes come in RM1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 500, and 1,000. Coins come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, and 50 sen, as well as RM1. The exchange rate is approximately RM3.59 = $1.

Singapore -- The Singapore dollar (S$), commonly referred to as the Sing dollar, is the local unit of currency, with notes issued in denominations of S$2, $5, $10, $50, $100, $500, and $1,000; coins come in denominations of 1, 5, 10, 20, and 50 cents and the gold-colored S$1. The exchange rate is approximately S$1.49 = $1.

Thailand -- The Thai baht (B) is made up of 100 satang. It comes in colored notes of 20 (green), 50 (blue), 100 (red), 500 (purple), and 1,000 (khaki) baht. Coins come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, and 10 baht, as well as 25 and 50 satang. The exchange rate is approximately 35B = $1.

Vietnam -- The main unit of Vietnamese currency is the dong (VND), which comes in denominations of 500,000, 200,000, 100,000, 50,000, 10,000, 5,000, 1,000, 500, and 200 notes. There are no coins. Most tourist venues accept dollars, and even in small towns you will at least be able to exchange greenbacks, if not use dollars directly. The exchange rate is approximately 16,000VND = $1.

ATMs

The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an ATM. The Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) networks span the globe; look at the back of your bank card to see which network you're on, then call or check online for ATM locations at your destination. Be sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) and daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Note: Many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more) than for domestic ones (where they're rarely more than $2). In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank.

Credit Cards

Credit cards are another safe way to carry money. They provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and they generally offer relatively good exchange rates. You can get cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, provided you know your PIN. Keep in mind that you'll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time. Also, note that many banks now assess a 1% to 3% "transaction fee" on all charges you incur abroad (whether you're using the local currency or your native currency). Before you leave home, call your credit card company to find out if there's a daily limit on cash advances.

Traveler's Checks

In most parts of the world, traveler's checks are an anachronism from the days before ATMs made cash accessible at any time. But be forewarned that the developing countries in Southeast Asia have scant ATM service, especially in rural areas. Traveler's checks are a sound alternative to traveling with dangerously large amounts of cash, and they can be replaced if lost or stolen.

You can buy traveler's checks at most banks. They are offered in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and sometimes $1,000. Generally, you'll pay a service charge ranging from 1% to 4%.

The most popular traveler's checks are offered by American Express (tel. 800/807-6233, or 800/221-7282 for cardholders -- this number accepts collect calls, offers service in several foreign languages, and exempts Amex gold and platinum cardholders from the 1% fee); Visa (tel. 800/732-1322, or AAA members can call tel. 866/339-3378 to get checks up to $1,500 for a $9.95 fee); and MasterCard (tel. 800/223-9920).

American Express, Thomas Cook, Visa, and MasterCard all offer foreign-currency traveler's checks, which are useful if you're traveling to one country; they're accepted at locations where dollar checks may not be.

If you carry traveler's checks, keep a record of their serial numbers separate from your checks in the event that they are stolen or lost. You'll get a refund faster if you know the numbers.

Getting There

If you're flying to Southeast Asia, you will more than likely arrive via one of the region's three main hubs: Bangkok, Singapore, or Hong Kong, from where you can pick up flights to any other destination in Southeast Asia. Your home country's national carriers will almost certainly connect with all three of these airports. In addition, check with Southeast Asian-based airlines for fare deals: Cathay Pacific, Thai Airways, Malaysian Airlines, and Singapore Airlines. United also has direct flights between the U.S. West Coast and Vietnam.

Tips for Women Travelers

Women traveling together or alone will find exploring this region particularly pleasant and easy. The Buddhist and Islamic codes of conduct and ethics followed by many mean that you will be treated with respect and courtesy.

Although you will almost never find local women dining or touring alone, as a visitor, your behavior will be accepted. You will rarely, if ever, be approached or hassled by strangers. At the same time, you can feel free to start a conversation with a stranger without fear of misinterpretation. Note: If you are traveling with a man, public displays of affection are not welcome, and it's you, the female, who will be scorned. Also, you will have to take even more care than your male counterpart to dress modestly, meaning no cleavage- or midriff-baring tops, miniskirts, or short shorts. Otherwise, you risk offending people on the grounds of either religious or local moral standards. Though wearing revealing clothing or sunbathing topless might appear to be tolerated, that's only because your hosts wish to avoid confrontation. Deep inside, it is very embarrassing.

It's still not advisable to take risks that you wouldn't normally take at home. Don't hitchhike, accept rides, or walk around late at night, particularly in dimly lit areas or in unfamiliar places. Be acutely aware of purse or jewelry snatchers in large cities. When meeting strangers in nightclubs, for example, buy your own drinks and keep an eye on them. In Cambodia, where a system of impunity prevails, precautions are highly recommended -- and that includes within the temple complex of Angkor.

Check out the award-winning website Journeywoman (www.journeywoman.com), a "real-life" women's travel network where you can sign up for a free e-mail newsletter and get advice on everything from etiquette and dress to safety; or the travel guide Safety and Security for Women Who Travel, by Sheila Swan and Peter Laufer (Travelers' Tales, Inc.), offering common-sense tips on safe travel.

When to Go

With a few exceptions, wherever and whenever you travel in Southeast Asia, you are likely to encounter hot and humid weather. All of Southeast Asia lies within the Tropics, and the countries closest to the Equator -- Singapore, Malaysia, Indonesia, and southern Thailand -- have the hottest annual temperatures.

Holidays & Festivals -- Some of the holidays celebrated in Southeast Asia might affect your vacation plans, either positively or negatively.

Tips for Families

If you have enough trouble getting your kids out of the house in the morning, dragging them thousands of miles away might seem like an insurmountable challenge. The rough roads of Southeast Asia can be difficult, and concerns about communicable disease in rural areas should certainly be weighed. However, more accessible destinations and larger cities offer a glimpse into ancient civilizations and varied cultures that delight the kid in all of us. Most hotels can arrange extra beds at little additional cost, and connecting-room capability is common. To locate those accommodations, restaurants, and attractions that are particularly kid friendly, refer to the "Kids" icon throughout this guide.

Familyhostel (tel. 800/733-9753; www.learn.unh.edu/familyhostel) takes the whole family, including kids 8 to 15, on moderately priced U.S. and international learning vacations. Lectures, field trips, and sightseeing are guided by a team of academics.

Recommended family travel websites include Family Travel Forum (www.familytravelforum.com), Family Travel Network (www.familytravelnetwork.com), Traveling Internationally with Your Kids (www.travelwithyourkids.com), and Family Travel Files (www.thefamilytravelfiles.com).

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Most disabilities shouldn't stop anyone from traveling. There are more options and resources out there than ever before. Larger hotels in the major cities of the region have adequate facilities for visitors with disabilities, though in rural destinations, specialized amenities are scant at best.

Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for those with disabilities. Among them are Flying Wheels Travel (tel. 507/451-5005; www.flyingwheelstravel.com), Access-Able Travel Source (tel. 303/232-2979; www.access-able.com), and Accessible Journeys (tel. 800/846-4537 or 610/521-0339; www.disabilitytravel.com). Avis Rent a Car has an "Avis Access" program that offers such services as a dedicated 24-hour toll-free number (tel. 888/879-4273) for customers with special travel needs; special car features such as swivel seats, spinner knobs, and hand controls; and accessible bus service.

Organizations that offer assistance to travelers with disabilities include MossRehab (www.mossresourcenet.org), the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB; tel. 800/232-5463; www.afb.org), and SATH (Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality; tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org). AirAmbulanceCard.com is now partnered with SATH and allows you to preselect top-notch hospitals in case of an emergency.

For more information specifically targeted to travelers with disabilities, the online magazine Gimp on the Go (www.gimponthego.com) has destination reviews, travel tips, bulletin boards, and links to other sites. Also check out the magazines Emerging Horizons (www.emerginghorizons.com), published quarterly, and Open World, published by SATH.

Health & Insurance

Travel Insurance

Check your existing insurance policies and credit card coverage before you buy travel insurance. You may already be covered for lost luggage, canceled tickets, or medical expenses.

The cost of travel insurance varies widely, depending on the cost and length of your trip, your age and health, and the type of trip you're taking, but expect to pay between 5% and 8% of the vacation itself. You can get estimates from various providers through InsureMyTrip.com.

Trip-Cancellation Insurance -- Trip-cancellation insurance will help you retrieve your money if you have to back out of a trip or depart early, or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. Permissible reasons for trip cancellation can range from sickness to natural disasters to the State Department declaring a destination unsafe for travel.

For more information, contact one of the following recommended insurers: Access America (tel. 866/807-3982; www.accessamerica.com), Travelex Insurance Services (tel. 888/457-4602; www.travelex-insurance.com), Travel Guard International (tel. 800/826-4919; www.travelguard.com), Travel Insured International (tel. 800/243-3174; www.travelinsured.com).

Medical Insurance -- For travel overseas, most U.S. health plans (including Medicare and Medicaid) do not provide coverage, and the ones that do often require you to pay for services upfront and reimburse you only after you return home. As a safety net, you may want to buy travel medical insurance, particularly if you're heading to a remote or high-risk area where emergency evacuation might be necessary. If you require additional medical insurance, try MEDEX Assistance (tel. 410/453-6300; www.medexassist.com) or Travel Assistance International (tel. 800/821-2828; www.travelassistance.com; for general information on services, call the company's Worldwide Assistance Services, Inc., at tel. 800/777-8710).

Lost-Luggage Insurance -- On flights within the U.S., checked baggage is covered up to $2,500 per ticketed passenger. On international flights (including U.S. portions of international trips), baggage coverage is limited to approximately $9.07 per pound, up to approximately $635 per checked bag. If you plan to check items more valuable than what's covered by the standard liability, see if your homeowner's policy covers your valuables, get baggage insurance as part of your comprehensive travel-insurance package, or buy Travel Guard's "BagTrak" product.

If your luggage is lost, immediately file a lost-luggage claim at the airport, detailing the luggage contents. Most airlines require that you report delayed, damaged, or lost baggage within 4 hours of arrival. The airlines are required to deliver luggage, once found, directly to your house or destination free of charge.

Staying Healthy

Health concerns should comprise much of your preparation for a trip to Southeast Asia, and staying healthy on the road takes vigilance. Tropical heat and mosquitoes are the biggest dangers. Travelers should also exercise caution over dietary change and cleanliness. Just a few pretrip precautions and general prudence, though, are all that you need for a safe and healthy trip.

General Availability of Healthcare

The best hospitals and healthcare facilities are located in the large cities of countries that have the greatest number of Western visitors -- Singapore, Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur (Malaysia), and Bangkok (Thailand). In rural areas of these countries and throughout the lesser-developed countries of Vietnam, Cambodia, and Laos, there are limited healthcare facilities: Hospitals are few and far between and are generally of poor quality. Even in heavily touristed Bali, you're better off evacuating to one of the more developed countries if faced with a serious medical situation. Over-the-counter medications are available anywhere, but it's a good idea to bring antidiarrheal medication and rehydration salts, among others.

Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT; tel. 716/754-4883, or 416/652-0137 in Canada; www.iamat.org) for tips on health concerns and lists of local, English-speaking doctors in the countries you're visiting. The U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (tel. 800/311-3435; www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety. You can find listings of reliable clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www.istm.org). The website www.tripprep.com, sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners, may also offer helpful advice on traveling abroad.

Common Ailments

Tropical Illnesses -- Among Southeast Asia's tropical diseases carried by mosquitoes are malaria, dengue fever, chikungunya, and Japanese encephalitis. Reports about malaria prophylactics vary. While most local health agencies tell you not to waste your time with antimalarial drugs, the CDC still advises people to take tablets, most of which cause uncomfortable side effects. In truth, your only sure way to avoid mosquito-borne diseases is to avoid being bitten. Repellents that contain DEET are the most effective, but gentler alternatives (look into baby-care products in any pharmacy) provide DEET-free mosquito protection without the chemicals. Also be aware that malaria mosquitoes bite between the hours of 5 and 7 in the morning and in the evening, so it's important to exercise caution at those times (wearing long sleeves and long trousers is a good idea, as is burning mosquito coils). Dengue-fever mosquitoes bite during the day.

Hepatitis A can be contracted from water or food, and cholera epidemics sometimes occur in remote areas. Bilharzia, schistosomiasis, and giardia are parasitic diseases that can be contracted from swimming in or drinking from stagnant or untreated water in lakes or streams.

Anyone contemplating sexual activity should be aware that HIV is rampant in many Southeast Asian countries, along with other STDs such as gonorrhea, syphilis, herpes, and hepatitis B.

Dietary Red Flags -- Unless you intend to confine your travels to the big cities and dine only at restaurants that serve Western-style food, you will likely be sampling some new cuisine. This could lead initially to upset stomach or diarrhea, which usually lasts just a few days as your body adapts to the change in your diet.

Except for Singapore, where tap water is safe to drink, always drink bottled water, and never use tap water for drinking or even brushing teeth. Peel all fruits and vegetables, and avoid raw shellfish and seafood. Also beware of ice unless it is made from purified water. (Any suspicious water can be purified by boiling for 10 min. or treating with purifying tablets.)

If you're a vegetarian, you will find that Southeast Asia is a great place to travel; vegetarian dishes abound throughout the region. In terms of hygiene, restaurants are generally better options than street stalls, but don't forgo good local cuisine just because it's served from a cart. Be sure to carry diarrhea medication as well as any prescription medications you might need. It's acceptable to wipe down utensils in restaurants, and in some places locals even ask for a glass of hot water for just that purpose (some travelers even carry their own plastic chopsticks or cutlery). Bringing antiseptic hand-washing gel is a good idea for when you're out in the sticks.

So how can you tell if something will upset your stomach before you eat it? Trust your instincts. Avoid buffet-style places, especially on the street, and be sure all food is cooked thoroughly and made to order. If your gut tells you not to eat that gelatinous chicken foot, don't eat it. If your hosts insist but you're still afraid, explain about your "foreign stomach" with a regretful smile and accept a cup of tea instead. Be careful of raw ingredients, common in most Asian cuisines, but realize that questions such as, "Are these vegetables washed in clean water?" are inappropriate anywhere. Use your best judgment or simply decline.

Bugs, Bites & Other Wildlife Concerns -- There are all kinds of creepy critters to be aware of in any tropical climate. In rural accommodations, mosquito nets are often required and, if so, are always provided by hoteliers. Check your shoes in the morning (or wear sandals) just in case some ugly little thing is taking a nap in your Nikes. Keep an eye out for snakes and poisonous spiders when in jungle terrain or when doing any trekking. Having a guide doesn't preclude exercising caution. Rabies is rampant, especially in rural areas of the less-developed nations, and extreme care should be taken when walking, particularly at night. In places such as Thailand, dogs are simply fed and left to roam free, and you are likely to run into some ornery mutts. A walking stick or umbrella is a suitable deterrent when out in the countryside. It's also important to know that all dogs have been hit with hurled stones sometime in their life, and, a nod to Pavlov here, the very act of reaching to the ground for a handful of stones is often enough to send an angry dog on the run, for fear of being pelted. If you are bitten, wash the wound immediately and, even if you suffer just the slightest puncture or scrape, seek medical attention and a series of rabies shots (now quite a simple affair of injections in the arm in a few installments over several weeks).

Respiratory Illnesses -- SARS hit the region hard in the winter and spring of 2003. Singapore reported some cases and essentially closed to tourism, and though most other countries in the region reported no cases of the disease, places such as Thailand suffered the fallout of the regionwide scare. There have been no reported cases of SARS since 2004. Tuberculosis is a concern in more remote areas where testing is still uncommon.

The avian influenza, also called the bird flu, is another public-relations nightmare in Southeast Asia. A number of cases have been reported in Thailand and Vietnam, and millions of chickens suspected of carrying the illness have been slaughtered. The victims of the bird flu have been few in number (statistically insignificant, really) and are mostly isolated to people working in the poultry industry. The countries affected have been unusually forthright about reporting new cases, and the disease is yet limited in scope. It is important to note that you cannot contract bird flu from consuming cooked chicken.

Air quality is not good in the larger cities such as Bangkok or Ho Chi Minh City; with no emissions standards, buses, trucks, and cars belch some toxic stuff, so visitors with respiratory concerns or sensitivity should take caution.

Sun/Elements/Extreme Weather Exposure -- Sun and heatstroke are a major concern anywhere in Southeast Asia. Limit your exposure to the sun, especially during the first few days of your trip and, thereafter, from 11am to 2pm. Use a sunscreen with a high protection factor, and apply it liberally. Asians are still big fans of parasols, so don't be shy about using an umbrella to shade yourself (all the Buddhist monks do). Remember that children need more protection than adults.

Always be sure to drink plenty of bottled water, which is the best defense against heat exhaustion and the more serious, life-threatening heatstroke. Also remember that coffee, tea, soft drinks, and alcoholic beverages should not be substituted for water because they are diuretics that dehydrate the body. In extremely hot and humid weather, try to stay out of the midday heat, and confine most of your daytime traveling to early morning and late afternoon. If you ever feel weak, fatigued, dizzy, or disoriented, get out of the sun immediately and go to a shady, cool place. To prevent sunburn, always wear a hat and apply sunscreen to all exposed areas of skin.

Be aware of major weather patterns; many island destinations are prone to typhoons or severe storms.

What to Do If You Get Sick Away from Home

Any foreign embassy or consulate can provide a list of area doctors who speak English. If you get sick, consider asking your hotel concierge to recommend a local doctor -- even his or her own. You can also try the emergency room at a local hospital. Many hospitals also have walk-in clinics for cases that are not life-threatening; you may not get immediate attention, but you won't pay the high price of an emergency-room visit. In the larger cities of Southeast Asia, healthcare at hospitals and private clinics is of an international caliber and quite affordable.

You will need to pay in advance for any medical treatment and be reimbursed later.

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and keep them in their original containers, with pharmacy labels -- otherwise they won't make it through airport security. Also bring the generic name of prescription medicines, in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar with the brand name. Prescription medication is readily available, often over the counter.

Staying Safe

The good news is that anonymous, violent crime is not an issue in most countries in the region, but petty theft, pickpocketing, and purse snatching are common. It is a good idea to carry a hidden travel wallet with your passport and documents, and keep an eye on valuables in public.

Road conditions vary throughout the region, but most large cities, from Bangkok to Ho Chi Minh, are busy and chaotic. Even for intrepid travelers who push their limits out in the wilds, crossing big-city streets, even at prescribed crossings, can be the greatest risk on your trip; move slowly and exercise caution. Rural roads in places such as Laos and Cambodia are often no more than dirt tracks. And even where the roads are good, Western visitors are often shocked at the seeming lack of rules and the fact that, on most roads, might is right: The biggest, fastest, and most aggressive vehicle takes precedence, and belligerent horn blowing is the rule. It is best to rent a car with a hired driver instead of trying to drive yourself. On some bus rides, you might want to keep your eyes just on the scenery and not on the road ahead.

In places such as the beach towns of Thailand, motorbike accidents are all too common, and you're sure to meet one or two road-rashed victims. Exercise extreme caution on rented bikes, especially if you're inexperienced, and always wear a helmet.

Dicey political situations arise and pass with frequency; it's important to check travel warnings with the U.S. State Department (www.travel.state.gov) or the most up-to-date sources on the region. Places such as Laos, Cambodia, Indonesia, and southern Thailand are known to flare with separatist movements and terrorism, while the ongoing unrest in Thailand shows that even supposedly stable countries are susceptible to political turmoil. Stay abreast of any and all news before traveling.

When it comes to drugs: "Just say no." Grown, produced, and shipped through the region, drugs such as heroin, opium, and marijuana are readily available. There are island spots and mountain retreats where it might seem like the thing to do, but in all cases here, national laws are strict. Many visitors find themselves in an intensive language school of another variety (in other words, jail) in short order if they can't bribe their way out of it. It's certainly not worth it anywhere.

Escorted & Package Tours

Escorted and General-Interest Trips

Among the most experienced and knowledgeable tour operators specializing in Southeast Asia are Absolute Asia and Asia Transpacific Journeys. In-country tour providers Diethelm and Exotissimo can do anything from arranging deluxe tours to just helping out with small details or bookings. Most companies allow clients to design their own trip or deviate from exact schedules (often at a small cost). Companies such as Intrepid, among others, offer unique itineraries for solo travelers.

Here are the top outfitters:

• Abercrombie & Kent (1520 Kensington Rd., Ste. 212, Oakbrook, IL 60523; tel. 800/554-7016; fax 630/954-3324; www.abercrombieandkent.com) offers Southeast Asia programs with numerous comprehensive itineraries. This well-known luxury-tour operator can take you to Thailand (on spa tours, too), Cambodia, Vietnam, Indonesia, and Laos, with stays at the finest hotels in Southeast Asia, such as the Oriental in Bangkok and the Sofitel Metropole in Hanoi.
• Absolute Asia (180 Varick St., 16th floor, New York, NY 10014; tel. 800/736-8187; fax 212/627-4090; www.absoluteasia.com), founded in 1989, offers an array of innovative itineraries, specializing in individual or small-group tours customized to your interests, with experienced local guides and excellent accommodations. Talk to these folks about tours that feature art, cuisine, religion, antiques, photography, wildlife study, archaeology, and soft adventure -- they can plan a specialized trip to see just about anything you can dream up for any length of time. They can also book you on excellent coach programs in Indochina.
• Asia Transpacific Journeys (2995 Center Green Court, Boulder, CO 80301; tel. 800/642-2742 or 303/443-6789; fax 303/443-7078; www.asiatranspacific.com) coordinates tours to every corner of South and Southeast Asia and the Pacific. It deals with small groups and custom programs that include luxury accommodations. The flagship package, the 23-day "Passage to Indochina" tour, takes you through the major attractions of Laos, Vietnam, and Cambodia with a well-planned itinerary, and it is but one of many fun tours that promote cultural understanding. It's a model of sustainable tourism and a highly recommended choice.
• Backroads (801 Cedar St., Berkeley, CA 94710; tel. 800/462-2848 or 510/527-1555; fax 510/527-1444; www.backroads.com), the cycling and hiking specialist, has an 11-day bike tour of Vietnam and Angkor Wat, an 8-day Thailand Golden Triangle tour, and others. Check out the website; Backroads is always coming up with innovative itineraries in the region.
• Diethelm Travel (Kian Gwan Building II, 140/1 Wireless Rd., Bangkok 10330, Thailand; tel. 662/660-7000; fax 662/660-7020; www.diethelmtravel.com), a Swiss-based tour company, has offices throughout the region (it's a popular choice for European tour groups). The folks here are friendly and helpful; they also operate as de facto tourist information centers in places such as Laos. Diethelm has full tour programs and, like Exotissimo , can help with any details for travelers in-country, arrange car rental or vans for small groups, and offer discount options to all locations.
• Exotissimo Travel (40 bis, Rue du fg Poissonniére, 75010 Paris, France, tel. 149/490-360, fax 149/490-369; or Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, tel. 08/825-1723, fax 08/829-5800; www.exotissimo.com), a French outfit and outbound (in-country) agency with offices in every major city in the region, has excellent guides on-site. Agents not only can arrange all-inclusive tours, but also are helpful with all travel details, from ticketing to visas. See the office locations in each chapter.
• Imaginative Traveler (1 Betts Ave., Martlesham Heath, Suffolk IP5 7RH, U.K.; tel. 0800/316-2717; fax 0280/742-3045; www.imaginative-traveler.com), a U.K.-based firm, gets rave reviews for organizing all sorts of bicycling, trekking, and motorcycling adventures throughout Southeast Asia, particularly Indochina.
• Intrepid Travel (11 Spring St., Fitzroy, Victoria, 3065 Australia; tel. 613/9473-2626, or 877/488-1616 in the U.S.; fax 613/9419-4426; www.intrepidtravel.com), a popular Australian operator, is probably the best choice for an off-the-beaten-track tour of Asia. Intrepid caters trips for the culturally discerning, those with humanitarian goals, those in search of comfort and adventure, those on a budget, or those looking for a looser structure and lots of options. Its name is its motto, and with some of the best guides in Asia, these folks will take you to the back of beyond safely, in style, and with lots of laughs.

Special-Interest Trips

For cultural tours and museum tours, contact any of the smaller local travel agents listed in each chapter. For the amateur ethnographer, contact any of the ecotour outfitters below or those listed in specific sections (particularly in the north of Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, or western Cambodia).

Outdoor Adventures & Ecotours -- Adventure-seekers can find any number of small outfitters in many parts of Southeast Asia. Consider first what kind of terrain you'd like to explore -- the choices are anything from jungle to dry plains, coastal estuaries to inland rivers. The best areas to get out and get your boots wet are in the farthest reaches of Thailand, Laos, and Vietnam.

In the north of Thailand, go with Contact Travel (420/3 Changklan Road., Chiang Mai; tel. 05320-4664; fax 05327-9505; www.activethailand.com) for cycling, off-road, and other ecoadventures. In the far south of Thailand, Paddle Asia (9/71 Thanon Rasdanusorn, Phuket; tel. 07624-0952; fax 07621-6145; www.paddleasia.com) has some of the best nature kayaking trips -- you're guaranteed to see some exciting wildlife.

In Laos, Green Discovery (P.O. Box 9811, Hang Boun Rd., Ban Hay Sook, Vientaine; tel. 021/264528; www.greendiscoverylaos.com) runs great rafting and kayaking adventures anywhere in the country and has some unique village and cultural tours as well.

In the north of Vietnam, the folks at Handspan (78 Ma May St., Hanoi; tel. 04/3926-2828; fax 04/926-2383; www.handspan.com) as well as Buffalo Tours (94 Ma May St., Hanoi; tel. 04/828-0702; www.buffalotours.com) put together exciting kayaking adventures in Halong Bay, hiking trips to Sapa, and jeep trips up to Dien Bien Phu. In central Vietnam, the old French colonial hill station of Dalat plays host to a great outfitter, Phat Tire Ventures (73 Truong Cong Dinh, Dalat; tel. 063/829-422; fax 063/820-331; www.phattireventures.com), which can help you rock climb, mountain bike, or trek with the most professional guides and experienced technicians.

In Malaysia, Asian Overland Services (tel. 03/4252-9100; fax 03/4257-1133; www.asianoverland.com.my) offers homestays in Taman Negara national park, Lemanak longhouse stays (Sarawak), diving off Sipadan Island, and a number of diverse tours planned with sensitivity to the environment and local cultures.

In Bali, Sobek Tours (tel. 361/287059), Bali Discovery Tours (tel. 361/286283; www.balidiscovery.com), and Bali Adventure Tours (tel. 361/721480; www.baliadventuretours.com) can both arrange fun day and overnight itineraries to volcanoes, the jungle, and rural villages.

The folks at Exotissimo Travel have offices throughout Southeast Asia and are the best for arranging all kinds of rural adventures.

Diving Trips -- There are more dive outfits in Southeast Asia than we could possibly list. Be sure to choose a PADI-accredited dive company and ask lots of questions before any trip: What is the ratio of diver to instructor? Does the company have its own boat?

In Thailand, look under Phuket or Ko Tao; in Vietnam, try Nha Trang; in Cambodia, Sihanoukville; in Malaysia, Langkawi.

Cooking Schools -- The varied cuisine of the countries of Southeast Asia is a veritable banquet for the gourmet or the fearless eater, and there's no better way to learn about and participate in a culture than to take a cooking class. Opportunities abound.

In Thailand, a favorite option is the upscale Blue Elephant Restaurant and Cooking School (233 S. Sathorn Rd., Bangkok; tel. 02673-9353; www.blueelephant.com), set in an old mansion in the heart of the city. The restaurant is a popular luxury chain from Europe that has returned to its roots and set up shop in the Thai capital. It's not to be missed. In the north of Thailand, try the Chiang Mai Cookery School (47/2 Moonmuang Rd., Chiang Mai; tel. 05320-6388; www.thaicookeryschool.com). In the far south, there are lots of small resorts with cooking schools attached.

In northern Laos, enjoy a fun and informative day at Tamnak Lao Restaurant and Cooking School (Sakhalin Rd., Ban Wat Sene, Luang Prabang; tel. 071/252-525), where you'll not only get the dish on Lao specialties and some unique derivations, but also learn a good bit about local culture, history, and language.

In central Vietnam, Ms. Vy, who runs the Mermaid (Nhu Y) Restaurant (02 Tran Phu St., Hoi An; tel. 0510/861-527; www.hoianhospitality.com) and several other establishments in town, offers great cooking programs of varying length.

Gourmands in Singapore shouldn't miss a chance to take a quick course at the Raffles Culinary Academy (tel. 65/6412-1256; www.raffles.com). Whole-day courses on Asian and Western haute cuisine are led by chefs from the grand hotel's acclaimed restaurants.

In Bali, try Bumbu Bali (tel. 361/774502) in the south for Heinz von Holzen's informative cooking classes. The Alila Manggis' Sea Salt restaurant (tel. 363/41011) holds cooking classes with chef Penny Williams. Executive chef Chris Salans gives gourmet French-Indonesian cooking classes at his restaurant Mosaic (tel. 361/975768), which is also well worth a trip for a meal.

Regions in Brief

Geographically, Southeast Asia is diverse and stunning. The lush tropical rainforests of peninsular Malaysia and Borneo are some of the oldest in the world. Beautiful islands and beaches are many, including large resort areas such as Thailand's Phuket or Indonesia's Bali, plus countless other gorgeous isles, atolls, and sandy strips that are relatively unexploited. Divers and snorkelers flock from around the world for stunning coral reefs bursting with colorful life in Thailand, Malaysia, and Indonesia. You can find adventures in the wild while jungle trekking, sea and river kayaking, or visiting ethnic villages and sacred peaks.

Southeast Asia is also a cultural melting pot, a crossroads of influences from China, south Asia, and Tibet. Consider the Sri Lankans, who transplanted Theravada Buddhism, with its serene and orthodox ways, from Myanmar to Thailand and Laos. Or the Indian traders, who brought ancient Hinduism to Cambodia, influencing the architecture of the magical city of Angkor. Or the Hindus who settled on Bali, mixing their dogma with local animism to create a completely unique sect. Meanwhile, seafaring Arab merchants imported Islam to coastal areas of Malaysia and Indonesia, adding another interesting facet to the region. In Vietnam, the only Southeast Asian nation to fall directly under the control of past Chinese empires, China's cultural influences are still strong. And, on top of that, Europeans from the late 1400s onward imported Western culture to cities such as Hong Kong, Singapore, Penang, and Melaka; the European colonial imprint is still visible in the architecture and cuisine of most countries in the region. Crossing an international border in Southeast Asia is stepping into another world.

Economic and political developments have changed the face of tourism in the region. While cosmopolitan stops such as Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, and Bangkok guarantee the best luxury hotels, finest dining, and most refined cultural attractions, up-and-coming cities such as Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), and Chiang Mai promise cultural curiosities around every street corner as they struggle to balance traditional customs with modern development. Thailand's 3 decades of tourism development have created very familiar facilities for travelers, for example, but those looking for a more down-and-dirty experience can head off to nearby Cambodia or Laos, countries still off the beaten path of most tourist agendas. For every luxurious Bali, there's a laid-back Tioman Island (Malaysia). For every busy Bangkok, there's a charming Luang Prabang (Laos).

It is important, of course, to talk about those Southeast Asian nations that have political or safety concerns, and the sections that follow discuss political turmoil in more detail. Steer clear of any sectarian or political tension, and know that the relative stability of many countries in Southeast Asia is rather short-lived; flash political upheavals are not uncommon. Refer to your country's overseas travel bureau or to the U.S. State Department (click "Travel Warnings" at www.travel.state.gov) to learn about current travel warnings in the area.

Thailand

Each year, Thailand sees more international travelers than any of its neighbors, enticing everyone from luxury vacationers to young shoestring backpackers, Japanese junkets, and European group tours. You'll meet young professionals on hiatus, naive tourists prowling for that "One Night in Bangkok," and soul-searchers hanging around for the Buddhist dharma and Asian hospitality. Many trips to Southeast Asia either start here or end up here, and it is a good orientation.

Travelers usually arrive in Bangkok, staying for a few days to take in the city's bizarre mix of royal palaces and skyscrapers, pious monks amid rush-hour commuters, and sidewalk noodle vendors serving bankers in suits. That's not to mention the city's nightlife, with that seedy element that made the city infamous. Heading south, find the legendary beaches and resorts of Phuket island; Ko Samui, in the Gulf of Thailand, is a comparable alternative. Another attraction, the northern hills around Chiang Mai, presents a world of adventure trekking and tribal culture along well-worn -- but well-worth-it -- travel paths. Throughout the country, you'll have opportunities for outdoor adventure and extreme sports, organized by very professional firms that you can count on for safety and reliability.

And at the end of the day, there's that unbeatable taste of Thai cuisine -- tangy soups, hearty coconut curries, and the freshest seafood.

Laos

Travelers who complain that Thailand has become too touristy can look to Laos. Here is a country where foreigners are still greeted as gracious guests rather than as cash cows. Rarely will you find tacky souvenir stalls or tourist kitsch -- just quiet towns with laid-back markets, townsfolk carrying on their trades, and farmers tending to their chores. Life is set to the pace of Buddhism, tranquillity and compassion the hallmarks, and the people are very kind and welcoming.

Some people fear that Laos will follow Thailand's accelerated development model, that the ethnic villages in the north will be turned into safari parks and the country's beautiful temples transformed into theme attractions. But the infrastructure of this developing nation won't yet support that, and Lao people are in no rush to cash in on the nation's peacefulness.

For a capital city, Vientiane is startlingly parochial. With every other building dedicated to an international development agency, it's an eye-opening reminder that Laos is one of the 10 poorest countries in the world. Next stop is Luang Prabang, UNESCO World Heritage Site, a paradise of gorgeous Buddhist temples -- dozens of them amid shady streets that lead to the Mekong River. If you have time, Xieng Khouang, east of Vientiane, is the home of Southeast Asia's Stonehenge, the Plain of Jars, huge mysterious stone monoliths that have somehow survived bombs and guerrilla insurgents. Ecotourism is growing rapidly, and some new and interesting avenues into the Lao jungle and rivers connect remote ethnic villages (especially in the north).

Vietnam

If the thought of Vietnam stirs flashbacks of televised war coverage or scenes from dark movies, guess again. One of the fastest-growing destinations in the region also happens to be one of the most beautiful, friendliest, and most convenient places to travel.

Vietnam's major destinations fall in a line, and most visitors choose to travel from north to south, starting in Hanoi and ending in Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), or vice versa. Convenient tourist buses connect the main coastal stops, and there are increasing options for individual travelers as well.

In the south, Ho Chi Minh City, or Saigon, is the gateway to the beautiful Mekong Delta region. Heading north, you'll pass through Dalat, a hill station in the cool mountains, and then on to Nha Trang, an emerging seaside getaway. Farther north, Hoi An is one of the region's most charming villages and a picturesque labyrinth of cobblestone streets, historic buildings, and lots of shopping. Still farther, the former capital city at Hue is filled with many architectural gems of Chinese and European influence. The cultural amalgam is best defined in Hanoi, where Vietnamese, French, and Chinese cultures collide. From here, head east to see gorgeous Halong Bay, with hundreds of craggy rock formations jutting straight up from the sea; or travel to the far north to Sapa, where you visit Vietnam's hill-tribe people in the mountains that divide northern Vietnam from China.

Cambodia

It wasn't long ago that Cambodia was off the map, a land plagued by general lawlessness and banditry as the result of years of strife. In recent times, visitors have braved the remnants of the country's chaos and, by hook or by crook, made their way to Siem Reap and Southeast Asia's premier cultural attraction, Angkor Wat, the magnificent temple ruins of the mighty Angkor civilization of A.D. 800 to 1200.

The good news is that, though it will take years to catch up economically with its growing neighbors, Cambodia is on the mend. It will take at least a few generations to heal after the tragic events of the mid-1970s, when the entire country was turned into a concentration camp under Pol Pot, but Cambodia is now looking to the future. Bolstered by international humanitarian aid organizations, the country is enjoying a protracted period of peace not seen in many years. Phnom Penh, the capital, and Siem Reap, the access village for the Angkor temples, are safe, and the countryside is open to more adventurous travelers ready to brave the rough roads and basic amenities and accommodations. Many still limit their trip in Cambodia to the temples of Angkor, however. Convenient direct flights from the larger cities throughout the region simplify the process.

It's important to remember that the country is still littered with UXO, unexploded ordnance, including dormant bombs and land mines. In the rural areas, it's important to stay on well-worn trails and, farther afield, to go with a knowledgeable guide. After a peaceful election in 2003, the situation in Phnom Penh is stable, but visitors should stay informed before going, as the country has a history of flash political upheaval.

Singapore

All of Southeast Asia's cultures seem to converge on Singapore, making it perhaps one of the best places to begin your exploration of the region. Excellent museums explore Asian civilizations, Southeast Asian art, and even World War II history. The city's hundreds of restaurants provide a wealth of choices in terms of cuisine, offering a glimpse of many regional specialties in one stop. And some of the best regional fine arts, crafts, and antiques end up in Singapore showrooms.

Singapore gets trashed regularly by complaints that it is too Western, too modern, too sanitary -- too Disneyland. Walk the streets of Chinatown, Little India, and the Malay Muslim area at Kampong Glam, and you can see where the buildings have been renovated and many former inhabitants have retired from traditional crafts. But some of these places have a few secrets left that are very rewarding if you are observant. Over the past 200 years, Singapore has reinvented itself from many contributing cultures. If you consider the country today, you'll realize it is still keeping up that tradition.

Myanmar (Burma)

In preparing this guide, we were confronted with problematic political realities in Myanmar -- realities that made us question the advisability of sending readers there. The brutality and unfairness of the military government of Myanmar have been met with sanctions and embargoes from the international community. Political leaders such as the resilient Aung San Suu Kyi are being punished, and any dissent is met with house arrest and prison.

Since the early 1990s, the junta has encouraged tourism, and a visit to Myanmar is in fact a unique glimpse into rich Buddhist tradition, ancient culture, and stunning natural beauty. But while some encourage tourism and believe that Western visitors give voice to the troubles of Burma, others shout for a moratorium on tourism to this troubled land, saying that visitors' dollars subsidize and support tyranny.

Because of the precarious political climate in Myanmar, we've decided to exclude the country from our coverage. Those not so easily dissuaded, however, can find more information on the subject at the Burma Project at the Open Society Institute (www.soros.org/burma) or at www.burmadebate.org. If you do decide to go to Myanmar, we suggest sticking with a reputable international tour operator. Good regional providers include Diethelm Travel (1 Inya Rd., Kamayut Township; tel. 951/527-110 or 951/527-117; fax 951/527-135; www.diethelm-travel.com) and Exotissimo Travel (#0303 Sakura Tower, 339 Bogyoke Aung San St., Kyauktada Township, Yangon; tel. 951/255-427 or 951/255-388; fax 951/255-428; myanmar@exotissimo.com).

Malaysia

Possibly one of the most overlooked countries in Southeast Asia, Malaysia is one of our favorites for one very special reason: It's not Thailand. After so much time spent traveling around Thailand listening to every hawker yell, "Hello! Special for you!" and every backpacker bragging about $5 roach-infested guesthouses, we look forward to Malaysia just to escape the tourism industry. Beaches on the islands of Langkawi and Sabah are just as beautiful as Thailand's, and resorts here are equally as fine. The quaint British colonial influences at Penang, Malacca, and Kuching (Sarawak) add to the beauty, as do the mysterious Arab-Islamic influences all over the country. That's not to mention an endless number of outdoor adventures, from mountain climbing to jungle trekking to scuba diving -- in fact, the rainforest here is far superior.

Why is Malaysia so underestimated? To be honest, after experiencing the relative "freedom" and tolerance of Thai culture, many travelers find Malaysian culture too strict and prohibitive. We think it's a fair trade -- in Thailand, when we talk to Thai people, we're often treated like tourists with fat wallets. In Malaysia, when we meet locals, we end up having interesting conversations and cherished personal experiences. And we don't have to suffer through blatant prostitution and drug abuse -- the sad, sleazy side of the Thai tourism industry.

A word of caution: On April 23, 2000, a group of tourists was kidnapped from the diving resort at Sipadan Island, off the east coast of Sabah (Malaysian Borneo). Abu Sayyaf, the Filipino Muslim separatists who were responsible for the incident, still remain at large in the southern islands of the Philippines close to Borneo. Exercise caution when traveling to this area.

Bali

Memories of the 2002 and 2005 bombings in southern Bali are imprinted on our collective image of the island, and no doubt the whole world is familiar with Indonesia's history of civil unrest: ethnic and religious conflict, the struggle for independence in East Timor and now Aceh, and anti-Western bombings and riots in Jakarta. Yet tourism is on the upswing in Bali, and those who visit are taking advantage of great hotel deals on an island well known for spectacular beaches, lush rice paddies, and welcoming people.

Until the bombings, Bali was the one safe haven, an enclave of upscale resorts separate from troubles on the larger islands of Indonesia. Now, in the wake of the bombings, Bali struggles to regain its international allure. The beaches remain the stuff of legend, supporting dreamy resorts that cater to anyone from families to escapist honeymooners and well-heeled paradise seekers. Watersports enthusiasts flock to Bali for surfing, snorkeling, scuba diving, and swimming as well as kite surfing and windsurfing. Those who can pull themselves away from the seaside can venture into villages lively with local smiles and markets packed with eye-boggling handicrafts and treasures, or take off into the jungle or up among high volcanic peaks for rigorous trekking. The town of Ubud is set among delightful Hindu temples and gorgeous mountain scenery -- famed for its terraced rice fields -- and supports a community of local and expat artists. Bali still has much to offer, and the friendly Balinese islanders are eager to see a return of the Western visitors who've brought so much to this magical isle.

Tips on Dining

Southeast Asia is a real playground for adventurous eaters; from high-class hotel restaurants and power-lunch points to street-side stalls with local specialties, you'll find it all. The cuisine of each country is unique, and crossing borders often means a new course in manners, food, and culture. In this guide, we list the safest of options by and large, making sure to designate any dining that could be deemed "adventurous" -- but the adventurous in fact have lots of opportunities to try new foods, from oddities such as freshly killed snake to fried crickets and grubs. It's not all that funky, though, and much of the best local cuisine is not found in restaurants but in markets and street-side stalls, something that puts some people off. Our advice: Be adventurous. When eating in open-air joints, just be careful that things are cooked fresh and aren't sitting out, and be careful of raw ingredients such as vegetables or some fish pastes. If you find yourself playing charades to get your food, laughing, smiling, and squatting on a tiny plastic stool, talking to locals and eating a meal that costs pennies to the approving nods of your new friends, then you're in the right place. Wherever possible, ask locals what's good, and you'll be in store for a fun cultural adventure.

Try pho and the many regional specials throughout Vietnam; enjoy cover-the-table spreads in Thailand and Malaysia, where spices are fiery and a meal is always an event; and don't miss crispy duck or babi guling -- suckling pig -- in Bali. The choices are endless. The usual varieties of international fare can be found throughout the region -- in fact, every big city has its Chinese, Italian, sushi, and French. In parts of Indochina, Laos and Vietnam in particular, chefs carry on long traditions from colonial times, and the French cuisine is as good as you'll get anywhere. Chinese communities abound and, of course, so does good Chinese in its myriad forms -- from dim sum to Peking duck.

All but the fanciest restaurants are open early until late. Tipping is not expected but always appreciated, and just rounding up the bill to the next dollar amount is often more than enough.

For drinkers, there are few restrictive laws or cultural taboos -- in fact, drinking is a big part of most cultures in Southeast Asia. In Malaysia and much of Indonesia, however, Islamic rules do not permit the consumption of alcohol, but non-Muslim visitors are welcome to drink as long as they are respectful of their Muslim hosts. Local rice wines and whiskeys abound, and foreign guests are always invited. Sometimes the stuff is pretty potent -- toxic, even -- so be warned. European visitors left their mark on the region with brewing and distilling technologies, and each country produces its own local beers to go along with the many imports. Fresh fruit is falling off the trees in the tropical climes of Southeast Asia, so good fresh juices are available everywhere. Coffee is grown throughout the region, and though local roasting processes are a bit different, local brews are delicious. Tap water is not potable in most regions, but bottled water is available everywhere; and perhaps the best advice for travel in the region is to stay hydrated. If you're thirsty, then it's too late. Drink lots.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Acceptance of alternative lifestyles in Southeast Asia, like anywhere, runs the gamut. One thing to remember is that many of the societies and cultures of the region are, by tradition, very modest, and public displays of affection of any kind are not acceptable. Gay nightlife choices are many and varied in larger cities such as Bangkok, Singapore, and Hong Kong, but in rural areas, provincial attitudes vary and intolerance is not uncommon.

The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; tel. 800/448-8550 or 954/776-2626; www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry. It offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses; go to its website and click on "Members."

Many agencies offer tours and travel itineraries specifically for gay and lesbian travelers. Among them are Above and Beyond Tours (tel. 800/397-2681; www.abovebeyondtours.com), Now, Voyager (tel. 800/255-6951; www.nowvoyager.com), and Olivia Cruises & Resorts (tel. 800/631-6277; www.olivia.com).

Gay.com Travel (tel. 800/929-2268 or 415/644-8044; www.gay.com/travel or www.outandabout.com) is an excellent online successor to the popular Out & About print magazine. It provides updated information about gay-owned, gay-oriented, and gay-friendly lodging, dining, sightseeing, nightlife, and shopping establishments in destinations worldwide.

The following travel guides are available at many bookstores, or you can order them from any online bookseller: Spartacus International Gay Guide (Bruno Gmünder Verlag; www.spartacusworld.com/gayguide), Odysseus: The International Gay Travel Planner (Odysseus Enterprises Ltd.), and the Damron guides (www.damron.com), with separate, annual books for gay men and lesbians.