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The open-air barbecue stands known locally as "lolos" are a St. Martin institution, dishing out heaping helpings of barbecued ribs, lobster, chicken or fish grilled on split metal drums, garlic shrimp, goat stew, rice and peas, cod fritters, and johnnycakes—full platters from $10 to $20, a real bargain on pricey St. Martin. In Grand Case, two of the best, Talk of the Town (590/29-63-89) and Sky's the Limit (690/35-67-84), have covered seating, a waitstaff, and sea breezes ($1 Carib beers don’t hurt, either). Several excellent lolo-style Creole restaurants are found in Marigot facing the marketplace and ferry port, including Le Goût and Chez Coco—but our favorite is Enoch's Place (590/29-29-88), which serves tasty garlic shrimp (€10), stew chicken (€10), and stew conch (€8); each platter comes with rice and peas, cooked plantains, and salad. Derrick Hodge's Exclusive Bite (no phone) is right by the city's scenic cemetery. The Dutch side has its own versions. For lunch, try Mark's Place (no phone) in Philipsburg's Food Center Plaza parking lot; after 6pm, head for Johnny B's Under the Tree (no phone) on Cay Hill Road in Cole Bay.